seatkid

If you disconnect the sensor, you'll get a fault on the VAGCOM and it'll go into a limp mode for sure, but if you no longer get intermittent variable performance it would probably eliminate the pulley theory and point the finger at the sensor.

Better still.... check out live webcams at the LHC

Sorry but I got this a bit wrong!!!!! Apologies for not double checking my post THE CORRECT PROCEDURE IS...... Start with the car doors closed but unlocked. Put the key in in the driver's door lock and lock it return the key to the centre position. Wait 2-3 secs. Turn the key to the unlock position (clockwise) and return immediately to the centre position, then after approx 1 sec turn the key to the unlock position (clockwise) and return immediately to the centre position, then again after approx 1 sec turn the key to the unlock position (clockwise) and return immediately to the centre position. You should see the drivers door led on constantly - i.e. programming mode Must engage brain while posting......

Thats not the PATS chip, thats the remote IC and its cover. The PATS chip is actually stuck in the keyend...... It comes out easily!! The + end of the batteries point toward the IC.

Is that with the engine running? Its not uncommon to have some play when the engine is off, the power steering pump pressures the rack a bit and takes the play up. Double check the track rod ends, only a small bit of wear is required for a knock/MOT failure. Coomon failure.

Its part of the immobiliser system (I think it stands for Programmable Anti Theft System) - not to be confused with remote locking which is entirely different and does not use the PATS chip. It also has a PATS chip in the key - you just cant get to it. Do I need to re-program the remote key after the battery replacement? General consensus seems to indicate Yes, however I have never "had" to. Programming the key actually programs the car's remote module to accept the remote fob for remote locking. PATS programming is not required, and can only be carried out at dealers AFAIK.

Almost certainly one or more wires are broken in the door gaitor - very common problem - see FAQ for further details

Yes Mk1 Tdi uses a needle lift sensor - IIRC its fitted to No.1 injector. I wouldn't have thought that its capable of inducing a 25 deg error but it may be worth disconnecting it to see if the fault becomes permanent.

Try "assisting" the windows with your hands when you operate the switch (you may someone to help you). It sounds as if they're physically stuck and the motor load limiting is insufficient to overcome the stiction.

Obviously you need a new car...... :( A "loud rattle" is so generic a description that the likehood of guessing an answer is 1,000,000 : 1 against. Have you checked for bottles, cans in holders, loose change in cubbyholes/ashtrays/gloveboxes etc? If your car is under warranty, take it to a dealer. Are you sure the rattle in inside the car cabin and not outside says under the car or in the engine bay?Get someone in the passenge seat to try indentify the exact location. Is the rattle constant or under certain conditions? e.g. is it bought on by driving over a hump - in this case it could be a worn ARB link. Try and describe the rattle a little more scientifically.

I'm inclined to think its not bearings as once a bearing starts squealing they usually dont stop and probably seize up completely in a matter of minutes. Either you have a problem with short term massively excessive load - a duff battery springs to mind, or more likely an electrical fault in the alternator. Also check the fuse box that the heavy cable from the alternator runs to. Look for signs of overheating (it will be obvious).

Theres a bit of a knack required. Start with the car doors closed but unlocked. Put the key in in the driver's door lock and lock it return the key to the centre position. Wait 2-3 secs. Turn the key to the lock position (clockwise) and return immediately to the centre position, then after approx 1 sec turn the key to the lock position (clockwise) and return immediately to the centre position, then again after approx 1 sec turn the key to the lock position (clockwise) and return immediately to the centre position. You should see the drivers door led on constantly - i.e. programming mode The sequence and timing are important It only works in the drivers door lock. If the above fails then its likely you have a broken wire in the door gaitor, but then I would expect also that the central locking would not work (unlocking all doors) from mechanical key operation.....

Not unless you are a very competent diy mechanic. The real problem with a seized compressor is there may be metallic debris now elsewhere in the system. Not only do you need to remove and replace the compressor but also replace the receiver dryer and have the system flushed, a/c lubricant added and then regassed with the correct weight of R134a. Its probably best done at an a/c specialist - cheaper and more competent than a dealer.

Maybe the deadlocks are electrically operated.

Sounds like the a/c compressor is seized. Check to see you can turn it easily by hand. The smell and heat will be the auxilliary belt slipping over the seized pulley or the a/c clutch slippling (or both). Do not run the engine with the a/c on, until this problem is sorted. There is a high probability of fire!

The fans will kick in at full speed when the themostat switch closes.If you turn on the A/C, the fans kick in at low speed. If the temperature gauge sits anywhere in the NORM range under normal driving conditions, the temperature sensor is perfect. In addition to the gauge there is a small light in the guage which will illuminate when the temperature reaches an excessive level.

Why don't you complain to the insurance company!! Disclaimers are usually not valid, especially if you tell the insurance company that you did not agree and was pressured into it.

No. I think you're being neurotic. Leave it idling for a long while. If the fans don't cut in before the RED bit, then think about check the switches.

Yes it was......the plugs were always fouling with side valve engines making them a pig to start. And decokes were a binnaual ritual. And weber carburetors - you could never get them running quite right, the automatic chokes always stuck closed, they were....how should I describe them?.....complicated....italian quality...crap Not sure what you've been doing - have you had the pump/cambelt off? Bottom timing pulley slippage is a known problem. The key shears and it moves between two positions depending on what the engine is doing. Check the camshaft TDC position agrees with actual Piston no.1 TDC IIRC theres a flat bit on the end of the cam furthest from the belt end that should align with the cylinder head - for use with a locking tool.

IIRC "universal" lambdas do not work correctly in the galaxy engines. Try a search for more info - I'm sure its here somewhere. I think you need a genuine ford lambda sensor.

I seem to remember reading something somewhere about the com port must be correctly configured (possibly the virtual com port if its a USB cable, they can be set to com1,com2.....etc).

Basically Yes Its a tight squeeze between that oil filter and intercooler air pipe. (Blurry Photo) Me thinks you may have to detach the intercooler pipe and move it out of the way. Or remove the oil filter. Or both.

;) GUESS WHAT? I looked up crankshaft/camshaft position sensors on the TIS and...... IT WOULD APPEAR THERE IS NO CRANKSHAFT OR CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ON THE TDi (90/110bhp)!! They are only fitted on a PD engine and all those crap :lol: petrol engines.... Edit......but there is an ENGINE SPEED SENSOR........located just to the right of the oil filter.......Panic over......! :wacko:

They're shown as a two pin connection on the TIS. Just try every combination with your multimeter. You are looking to find 1k - 1k5 between 2 pins, i.e. not open circuit or short circuit............

Sorry audiman, I was thinking Mk1. (dewsy) You have a Mk2 so yes the power steering pump is driven off the auxillary belt.