seatkid

Unfortunately this is common and seems to mark the end of the remote keyfob's useful life. Only fix for this is a new fob or, like me, just use the locks.

Sounds as if the Forum Love God's got hold of her!

Mk 1/2 are VW designs, Mk 3 is a Ford design - totally incompatible.

Hoses should fix it, the 90bhp turbo/engine is pretty much bombproof - certainly one of the most reliable of the bunch.

I personally would try a new MAF sensor first Is your engine 90 or 110bhp? The 110bhp version suffers from sticking vane actuator in the Turbo (search for pics and info about freeing) Prices quoted seem reasonable (for a dealer) but do you want to spend

Check for broken spring or partly seized top mount bearing.

Press Auto and Econ buttons together. (mkII)

Check your messages MarinaBrid......

degree in rocket science required to repair Galaxy a/c systems........

AFAIK Flexi pipes are not repairable. Any exhaust leak engine to CAT is an MOT failure.

If you mean all wires to the pressure sw are dead then its not the pressure switch thats faulty- it will most likely be the deicing switch that is tripping. This is located on the evaporator (extremely difficult to get to). The deicing switch operates when the evaporator (located in dash with heater matrix) gets too cold, usually because ice has built up on it. It is not unknown for the deicing switch to be faulty, but the usual cause for icing is blocked water drain tubes (subject of a Ford TIS bulletin) combined with low air flow -usually a blocked pollen filter. It is possible to short out the deicing switch - refer to the TIS CD electrical diagrams. A simple test would be to put the a/c fan speed to full and see if the a/c runs longer before it stopped. If you havent changed the pollen filter within the last 30,000 miles, I would consider that first. And then crawl under the car engine bulkhead, locate the 2 (IIRC) drain tubes, remove the valves if they are still there and use a small screwdriver to clean the tubes and release any water still in the evaporator.

Without specialist test equipment? No.

Yes the engine fan comes on as soon as the a/c is switched on, but at half speed. So your problem is a wiring/relay/control unit fault.

Well thats ok.. ;) :blink: ;) ...erm your concise writing style is rather difficult to follow..... :lol: By fan I meant the large engine radiator fan....not the ventilation fans. If you mean to say that the pressure sw is cutting out, then its either.... the condensor overheating due to a faulty ENGINE fan or the quantity of gas in the system is too much or...... the pressure switch is faulty..... or contamination is blocking the expansion valve(this is a remote possibilty only, if youve had major work done or your compressor is breaking up in which case it'll soon get rapidly worse or the compressor will seize up)

Has to be specialist pipe compatible with R134a and PAG Oil - Low pressure side is still up to 5 bar. Plain rubber fuel pipe will probably degrade quickly and contaminate the rest of the system.

:blink: Here we go againnnnnnnnnnnn....what model, what year, what engine, dual/single/triple??????? Possiblities 1) Radiator fan not working (it should work at half speed when a/c is turned on) - a/c condensor overheats and pressure s/w cuts out 2) Slightly overfilled with gas - a/c condensor overheats and pressure s/w cuts out 3) Deicing switch cutting out - (Ford 2.0 and 2.3L engines only) - insufficient airflow due to blocked pollen filter and/or blocked drain tubes from evaporator

Come on then, dont be shy, whats the price you'll accept, will you sell one by itself, and is the other one covered in poo and sick..... :blink:

In the past members with LPG issues usually trace rough running as either air intake leaks or weak ignition (leads)

Probably not - it will cost at least

Just ensure the load rating is correct (IIRC 94 or 95 or higher)

Keyfob failure is pretty common - sometimes if you take the fob apart (make sure the PATS chip doesnt fall out!!! - do it on a table where any bits arel easy to retrieve), clean the battery contacts and it will work, but more often than not it just doesnt. Mine has gone that way as several other members. BTW there are 2 batteries in the fob. Rear window heater probably due to broken wires in the rubber gaiter to the tailgate - common problem see faq Have you changed any bulbs recently. Maybe they are incorrectly fitted.

Check Battery first (check voltage when starting) Then leads to battery/earth/starter motor Then Starter Motor Rocket science :ph34r:

They have the word "reinforced" or "RF" or "extra load" printed somewhere near the size mark. You can use the load rating to determine its suitability e.g 205/55 R16 W 91 is not reinforced but 205/55 R16 W 94 is... You should use the load rating printed in the owner's manual as a minimum (higher is OK) - using a lower rating is dangerous and invalidates your insurance. Likewise the speed rating in the owners manual (e.g. W or H) is the minimum requirement for safety and insurance purposes.

Congratulations, you just bought yourself a safe without the the combination. :ph34r: Seriously, if you value your engine and want to keep it a long time, forget about the tuning box.

The operator enters the Make/Model/Year of the car via a menu system. Then there is usually a choice of several options, to cover different variants. The operator MUST choose the option that is correct (it states the weight of gas on the LCD). If he chose the wrong one, it will go ahead and charge the wrong quantity. I always stand over the shoulder to "assist" the selection process. At the end, Kwikfit (used to) give you a summary report - pressures/temperatures before/after, how much gas/oil extracted and how much gas/oil recharged. If the galaxy a/c is over or underfilled, then the 3 way pressure switch inhibits the compressor to prevent damage.