seatkid

This is how they reduce the CO2 emissions of modern cars! ;)

Assuming only the lacquer is damaged..... Light scratches - Car polish + elbowgrease Light to moderate scratches - T Cut or rubbing compound, elbow grease and car polish Moderate to deep scratches - Clean area thoroughly, solvent cleaner to remove grease then apply lacquer locally either using spray can or touch in brush. Build up 2 or 3 light layers with 15 mins between each application. Allow to dry for 24 hours then attack with rubbing compound and elbow grease. This removes most of the lacquer you applied, leaving the scratches filled and leveled and hopefully invisible! Deep scratches that have damaged the base layer or have gone to prime coat or metal, need more than just lacquer.

Time to get the big hammer out........

Yup, wrong diagram! 2 m8 bolts either side, vertically on the lip. And 2 M8 (or maybe M6) nuts at the back You can see the holes in question on this pic

6 x M8 or M6 bolts 2 each side (access in wheel arch) and 2 at the back (either side of exhaust), front lip sits over/inside front bumper I'm sure someone will be along with a TIS drawing shortly.

Seen here is the way overdue Sharan/Alhambra replacement. Looks too long to fit in my garage (look at the length of the front) - sounds as if VW will overprice it.

VW should still carry the parts - but if you can get it done for less by other means then I would consider that.

Maybe they class them as vans.....or hearses......because thats what they look like :o

They all sound like intermittent connector problems. For the boot and parking sensors, check the loom in the wheel jack area for connectors, undo them inspect and reconnect.

You refitted the linkage to the motor spindle at the incorrect position. Remove the linkage at the motor spindle - reset the wiper position to the park position and refit.

I would have thought an insurance job. However the fact you drove on after perceiving a major problem will probably invalidate any claim. THINK before you speak to them.

The connector is under and forward of the front centre ashtray. Dont bother with VAGCOM - you'll not be able to tell if the MAF is faulty using that. Just get a new MAF sensor.

I take it you load the van such that the correct towball weight is acheived. I wouldnt have thought any change in springs are necessary, but adjustable gas shocks on the rear would be a good idea if its a heavy van.

This is fitted on the (Ford) petrol engine, it is a small solenoid operated air valve connected to either side of the main throttle plate. When you lift your foot off the accelerator pedal, the main throttle plate closes, shutting off all air to the engine. The ecu then commands the idle control valve to open to allow enough air for the engine to idle. Because the ECU monitors engine speed it can increase or decrese the amount of air supplied via this valve, thereby maintaining a steady idle speed, irrespective of small changes in load e.g. due to alternator, a/c, engine temperature, etc. Problems with the valve is when it gets gummed up with sticky goo from the oil/petrol vapour floating around there. Basically the valve can stick open/closed/halfway. This leads to erratic idle speed control and often the engine will stall after its been on the overrun (slowing down to stop at a junction for instance) because the valve closes on the overun to conserve fuel/giving some engine braking. Alternatively sometimes the idle speed remains very high and takes a while to return to normal (if at all) Or at least I think thats what it does.... ;)

You can get a variety of stick on rubber feet in different shapes/sizes/colours/material from many DIY stores, Maplin, Farnell, RS etc etc. Alternatively you could buy some foam tape and use that. Use your imagination.

This translates as either "Optional working a/c not fitted" or "Summer is ending next week" ;)

Thinking of you Maz and hoping everything gets better for you soon.

Might be throttle postion sensor (accelerator pedal)

OK, not sure where to go from here then... Two different guys at kwik-fit have told me that its fine and I don't need the oil. How do I prove I do.....? Failing that: Is there a way to check the oil in the system without another re-gas? Can I add additional oil myself ? They're lying about the what the readout is saying - kwikfit don't do dye - they don't do aircon repairs or diagnosis - period. But dont worry, the machine didn't recover any oil because your aircon was empty of gas. Oil (about 700ml) sits in the compressor (mainly), dryer, evaporator and condensor. Its still there (or should be) - but you didn't have any gas - it leaked out. Only a tiny proportion of oil is carried in the gas when the a/c is actually working. R134A gas molecules are extremely small and leak out the tiniest opening, the oil molecules are much larger and usually dont leak. (This, by the way, is why using dye is a waste of time on slow leaks) So...to sum up....the gas leaked out, but the oil didnt. So refilling your a/c with gas and no oil is OK. Don't attempt to top up oil - you will probably overfill it and cause more problems. You cannot check the total amount of oil in the system without removing every component (literally everything including pipework, condensor and evaporator and physiclly draining eith item. The only way to reset the oil level is to have the system flushed and reoiled - this is only ever done after a major rebuild.

He's lying.

Maybe a dicky connector on the injector loom. Any smoke?

Its normal to recover next to no oil when the system is empty. If the system was half full (350g) I would expect that 30ml or so of oil to be recovered. The machines are programmed to refill with the same amount recovered + 2ml although if the amount recoverd ios zero it might not put back any extra (i.e. 0 ml)

Warranty job?

Gonna try out some "reset" procedures later on today to see if the keyfob can be reset.