seatkid

CIA/MI6 are tracking you! Thinks its the carbon filled expansion cannister for venting the petrol fuel system - pipe connects to fuel system and wire to ground - thats a guess.

About here, several hundred yards before the 3 lane climb. I was going to Manchester. If it happened on one of the hairy bits, I think I wouldn't be posting on here anymore. :o

Its not rocket science - the brake bulbs both sides are dual filament bulbs with offset pins 5/21W (offset pins means the pins on the metal collar are at different heights from the base) If you fit/force in a single filament bulb or a non-offset type dual filament bulb you will have weird problems. BTW the cheapest place to buy brake bulbs is Sainsbury's -

Good tip biscuit, might be worthy of FAQ listing if someone else can do the same. I'll leave mine until I have a 2nd occurrence, because I'm lazy...

You say the battery is A1 but in my experience your symptoms are 90% indicative of either a flat battery or a duff battery. With the car running at around 1500 rpm, turn on all your lights, heated rear windscreen and heater blower - and check you have at least 14.1 volts at your battery terminal. If that is OK, then the alternator is fine. Check the battery voltage when the starter motor is being turned - if it dives (below 11 volts) and all your dash lights virtually go out during this time then its the battery or the leads. If the voltage/lights are OK then its the starter motor. Examine the heavy leads from the battery and from the starter motor, checking the crimps and the connections - particularly the ones that connect to the bodywork. IMO a faulty lead would give telltale smell/smoke when trying to start, so don't think this too likely. New battery doesnt mean good battery, you'd be surprised at the misuse and poor storage of batteries even at Halfords and what rubbish is sold at the bottom end of the market. If everything is fine with jump leads, then its the battery.

Idle Stability valve otherwise known as air bypass valve. It is bunged up and requires cleaning or replacing. Do a search and you will find lots of info and experiences. Usual symptom is stalling when slowing down.

probably corrosion on the pcb of the controller which is a surface mounted semiconductor affair mounted on the motor. IIRC there was a Ford recall on some of these many years ago. What happens is that moisture gets in under the conformal coating (lacquer) and corrosion turns on one or more of the transistors permanently. A few people have stripped them and cleaned them successfully bringing them back from the dead if my memory serves me correctly. Very expensive to replace if you can even get a replacement.

The pedal/sensor is a complete unit and costs between

Intermittent throttle sensor - common problem reported several times on the forum before. Just thought I'd report that the "fail safe" fallback when the the two potentiometer outputs of the accelerator pedal disagree (due to wear) could lead to leaving you alone in the lurch at a critical time. Just think that the software guys could have come up with a better solution. After all its all immediately restored after a restart, so why not "on the fly"? Toyota have been in the news lately about faulty accelerator pedals (massive recall in the US following half a dozen implicated deaths) and I am sure other manufacturers also have had throttle sensor type issues. And what did happen on flight 447? (the airbus lost over the atlantic) Software....guys....smart software...... :o

Driving up Woodhead pass and pulled out to over take a flatbed towing a trailer. 3/4 way past and......WHAT??!*! Engine dies - power gone - Mind switches to "what to do? Don't panic, ffs, don't panic" mode Dipped clutch engine still running but no response from throttle - nothing tight sensation around buttock area Fortunately - had **just** enough momentum and speed to drift in front of man and there was no approaching traffic. Also whitevan man pulled back instead of racing me, but must have thought me a right twat when I immediately slowed in front of him and switched the hazards on and pulled over. Stood by the road - 1300 rpm - nothing on throttle. So, resisted screaming "WTF I'm in the middle of nowhere", and switched off. Restarted and everything hunky dory again. Could have been ever so nasty - makes me think twice about overtaking in those "it'll be close but I think I can do it" situations. For those that don't know, Woodhead pass is in the pennines.

The ignition lights should come on and the engine should (IIRC) crank over, but will not start unless the PATS chips in the key is correctly programmed. Otherwise, you need to reprogram the PATS immobiliser. Can only be done at the dealer with the correct security code (attached to key at delivery time or obtainable via dealer, maybe) Costs about

Can't argue with that Scorpio!

I'm referring to Millers Diesel Power Sport 4 fuel additive. Now apparently updated and replaced by Millers Diesel Power Ecomax

Use only G12++ (plus plus). Any other may react and gel, blocking radiator and waterways in the block. (it may be the problem!) Check your radiator is getting hot (top to bottom) - if not you have a flow related problem - blockage or air lock. If your car has been "chipped" its common for the head to "microcrack" - these cracks only open up when the engine is hot and running and dont show up in normal tests. Solution - scrap the car/sue the guy who sold you it.

I think Scorpio is thinking about using this on his own body, Kev. :o

Normal current drain is about 50mA. If you have illuminated mirrors in the sunvisors, check the lights go out when closed. The surround often cracks and stops the switch turning off. Temporary fix is to unscrew the mounting where it goes into the roof lining - pull the wires and there is a connector you can unplug.

The glow plug light activity is no indication of glow plugs being alright. The glowplugs come on and stay on for several seconds after starting when the engine is cold started even though the glow plug light has gone out! 95% likely its a glow plug problem - very easy to check and change glowplugs. Look at the FAQ.

Broken wires in the rubber gaitors between the doors and body are the usual cause of these problems. Pull them back and check the wires.

FWIW I've done 60,000 miles/7 years on my current fuel filter (diesel). The recommended interval is 20,000 miles/2years, but I think thats OTT.

The old girl flew threw her MOT again! Smoke test - fast pass again (1.4) shows the millers does actually work - I now have several years documentary evidence to prove it! The smoke test used to be average 2.8 before I started using millers almost 3 years ago. 11 years/102,000 miles and still original front pads/discs (6mm/23mm) - not bad eh? Back pads were changed at 85,000 miles. MOT tester of many years experience said common thing that Shalaxies fail on are track rod ends and rear springs (that have snapped) and not much else. The old girl never ceases to amaze me. Might treat her to an oil change (only done 12,000 miles since last one).

Galaxy is a little too high. Easier to get out than get in. Try one out first with your disabled mum, you may not find it suitable.

Reference to formerly chipped/remapped vehicle.

I was of course referring to both the grammatical nonsense B) and the idea that the missus would be able to lift and hold a 30kg door after it had been torn off the hinges B) 3/10 BK...stay behind after class , Miss has some punishment lined up for you........ :wacko:

B.o.l.l.o.c.k.s.! B) (Been waiting a long time to say that......hehe) :wacko: