seatkid

Picture somewhere on forum - try a search.

what language is it he's speaking? NO PATS CHIP (small plastic block in the picture) --> NO START.

Diagnose the problem - you mentioned you changed flwheel/clutch. I would start there - could be some muppet didnt tighten or overtightened the bolts or reused non-reusable bolts. The repair should be under warranty if less than 12 months. If the garage it is at now did the clutch/flywheel, they may be inclined to steer you away from that possibilty. Crank failure highly unlikely - bearings fail gradually and is a dull rev related knock that gets louder usually over weeks. Rare on 1.9 tdi. Crank/piston breakage,usually means immobile engine again rare. Bits in the piston/head area (bits of valve,injector,old bits of turbo) would mean **severe** engine running diffculty. Nope - reckon its that cheap flywheel/clutch job....... Set yourself a ceiling on how much money and time you want to spend on a 240,000 mile spaceship. I wouldnt spend more than

Turbo control system is operated by vacuum also! Maybe you need to check more pipes....

i cant start the car..but i can open and clouse vith remoutcontrol Whoever changed the batteries let the PATS chip fall out...... PATS = Passive Anti Theft System = immobiliser The remote locking is a seperate system to the PATS immobiliser and will continue to work without the PATS chip. Unless you can find those chips (see links for pics) then you are buggered. It will be very expensive to obtain new chips and have your car reprogrammed by a dealer.

battery?

Mk 1 Manual a/c models - yes the recirc flap is vacuum operated. Well done with the repair.

Damn you BK - youre right again! Check F21 (25A) and F22 (30A) - these are the fan blower fuses (F21 rear F22 front)

Ah ! ........this will explain the 56 km per gallon ;) 56 miles per gallon if you please! :D

F30, F31,F32 all 10A Check wires in rubber gaitor to rear door - they often break.

Oh...and before you change the lambda sensor, check fuse 26 (5A) - this supplies the sensor with power to pre heat it. nb Fuse 26 on pre 98 models - different fuse on later models

Continentals for me!

I'm inclined to think your problem is the lambda sensor (aka oxygen sensor) - this is a common failure. If you replace this you MUST get the correct type (OEM) as "universal" types dont work in this application. I also suspect the ECU has automatically reverted to low octane setting in an attempt to resolve the issue. In any case I wouldnt trust anything a garage told me and certainly wouldnt go changing ECUs without lots of corroborating evidence. You might find that changing the lambda sensor and disconnecting the battery (to reset the ecu) is all you need to do. ECUs very rarely fail.

Wrong tree folks! Climate control versions (with LCD display) do not control fan speed using a resistor. The control unit supplies a variable (PWM) voltage. Mine once packed in (on a very hot day), but came back later after the engine had been switched off. Check if there is a fuse for the fan(s). Try disconnecting the car battery for a couple of minutes (dont forget you will need to recode the radio). This may reset the climate control unit. Otherwise you may have a faulty fan or wiring/connector.

yea mine is cracked at both ends. I suggest you get some amalgamating tape and wrap it round the cracked areas.

Do you know whereabouts its leaking?

PATS (immobiliser) problem. Did the PATS chip fall out of the key when you changed the battery? Without the PATS chip in the key, the engine will start and stop about 2 secs later.

You lot are obviously showing signs of early dementia!! :)

Swap the coil paks around and see if the problems follow the coil pak.

I suggest you check the Engine cooling fan resistor R27 - It may be burnt out - its located in the the front of the engine compartment -dont know where - it has 2 connectors on it (or there may be 2 resistors) cant tell from the the TIS. The fans should come on at half speed and keep the temp in the middle of the range.....I think

You do realise that fuel slopping about in the tank makes quite loud bangs occasionally? First, make sure your spare wheel is tight and not hanging loose on the cable. Check the rear coil spring is not broken - apparently quite common. Worn shock absorbers dont usually make banging noises. Other candidates are trailing arm bushes and sub frame bushes, though I think it unlikely for car your age.

I doubt whether top mounts ever really need replacing. MOTS should only be conducted with the vehicle on the ground with full weight on the front suspension (Ford/VW advice) as otherwise the top ends will drop and flop around a bit - thats the way they are designed. They should not test it with the vehicle lifted. Of course if you ever change a shock absorber then it makes sense to change the top mounting bits/bearing etc at the same time. But I've never seen anyone post on here that they've needed a front shock absorber changing. I may be wrong though... The commonest MOT suspension failure is worn track rod end(s). Knocking noises from suspension is usually a worn ARB drop link (not an MOT failure though AFAIK) Both are easy and cheap to fix. The wear involved is miniscule and difficult to see without the use of a crowbar. Much less common failures are worn bushes in the lower control arm or a worn lower ball joint. A laser wheel alignment is always required when changing a track rod end, the difficult bit is finding someone who knows how to use the equipment correctly and read a chart properly and knows the difference between a + and a -.

All keys have a PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) chip in them. Its not possible to start the car without it. The only time you might lose this chip is when you change the batteries in the key (only applies to keys with remote buttons), sometimes the chip will fall out. The LED in the door does come on during the start sequence - thats normal, however if it continues to flash continuously then I think that indicates a PATS problem (someone will be along and tell you more I'm sure) Start with the Basics first 1. Check you have fuel in the tank 2. Do the dash ignition lights come on when you turn the key? 3. Try to establish your car battery and starter motor are healthy. Does the engine turn over? Is it a healthy turn over i.e. fast or does the starter motor struggle to turn over. Do the dash light go very dim or out when turning over? 4. Next step would be to establish if the fuel pump is working (see FAQ regarding relay 30) 5. Then you need to check if the ignition system is working......

Just like to add my 2p worth. I run an electronics manufacturing business and having designed safety critical software and hardware for many years in the past, I feel qualified to comment. Some relevant points first Cable operated throttles - I've seen and heard 1st hand accounts of more stuck open throttles than broken cables. My sister had a mondeo that, at the thottle end, slipped off and jammed the throttle wide open. They are not fail safe really. Don't assume engineers are smart or thorough with their thinking. They are under pressure to spend as little time as possible on a problem from many directions. I know myself what a headache it is. Probably only NASA engineers get paid to keep thinking about the risk of killing someone. The reason that the ECU software is the way it is, is because it was a simple solution that a lot of (not so bright) managers can understand, and it took no time to think about or implement. Simple and cheap solution. BUT, in this case, restarting the car, resets the problem - this is not because it "knows the zero point" - you can start a car with your foot on the throttle pedal - its just because the dual pot sensor agreed with itself. A little more thinking/testing/looking at past experience would suggest that this can be done on the fly, i.e. restore control if the sensor starts behaving itself. Put in some limits maybe, light a warning light, whatever. In the end, I can dip the clutch, brake hard, switch off the ignition etc I have some suspicion that accidents have happened because of this kind of event - maybe even fatal ones - only to be put down to driver error by investigators. In the end, I know why it like it is, but if more people are aware, they may think twice about that "risky overtaking maneuver" that I'm sure we've all done on occasion.

This marvel of engineering (I jest) should be lowered at least once every 2 years and liberally doused in WD40, grease or similar and checked out, particularly the bit on the end that has a hinged part (usually seized up). Do not allow the wire to spin around and keep it in tension when winding up. If you've never had it down, then do it now as its not the kind of thing you want to sort out by the roadside.