seatkid

Try a new MAF sensor.

Yeah....where is Maz? Happy Birthday anyway :rolleyes:

Its highly likely that in removing/refitting gearbox they pulled off one of the many small vacuum pipes that are part of the turbo boost control. They may have reconnected them incorrectly as well. Check the MAF sensor is connected as well as the piping / wiring to the boost pipework located immediately to the right of the engine block. Doubt that the ecu is faulty. They probably dont have a compatible diagnostic tool.

People cant help if you don't post details of your car, i.e. engine, year etc. Diesel engine have electronic CC, no vacuum involved. Probably VR6 engine too. The Technical FAQ has some information about CC on the Ford petrol engined models.

First port of call should be to check the wiring in the door rubber gaitors. Look at FAQs 31,43,and 44 for pictorial guides to inspecting and fixing broken wires in the gaitors. Also check all the door light switches are working correctly and the bonnet and tailgate are closed properly as these are linked to the alarm system. If your car has internal ultrasonic movement sensors (there are mounted at the top of the B pillars) you can disable internal monitoring by locking the car with the key in the lock, followed by a 2nd turn to the lock position after a second or two. The indicators will flash twice (IIRC) to show that deadlocks and internal alarm is disabled. Think you can do a similar thing with the remote fob. I'm not sure if it disables the main alarm, it may do.

Check the external wiring and connectors first. IIRC quite a few problems been reported here down to a dicky connection or broken wire. I have no further knowledge of the auto box, sorry.

Open up the rear driver's side storage compartment where the jack is stored. There should be a big sticker on the inside of the wing with the factory build data. Buried in that string of letters and numbers is the paint code. You might find a similar sticker in your service booklet.

For leads look at some recent threads, some recomendations there. Mostly fleabay I think. Never used a lead myself as never needed one (touch wood)

Spurious beeping when starting often is due to low voltage, i.e. battery problems. 5 beeps is saying crankshaft position sensor fault. Don't know what 10 beeps is. If it persists then maybe it's time to invest in a VAGCOM lead.

Try relay 109, located in the 3rd level of the fusebox. Its the main power relay and known to give intermittent starting or cutting out problems. Faq 36 shows you how to get to this relay layer.

On my Mk 1 as far as I remember there were just 2 or maybe 4 bolts under the car holding the carrier to the body. 13mm socket to undo. Only accessible with the tyre removed! I might be wrong though and those bolts might be undoable from inside. Cant quite understand your dilemna - Is there a tyre on the carrier that you cant lower? 3 things to remember - the locking mechanism (a U shaped bracket around the lifting bolt) has to be held down when winding down the carrier - using the wheel brace supplied does this automatically. And there needs to be weight on the hanging wire while you lower (or lift) to stop the wire getting tangled on the reel. Do not allow the wheel or wire to rotate as the strands may part or wire may become twisted and tangle in the reel. Putting weight on the wire carrier while turning the lowering mech (maybe try both directions) should be able to release thte wire and lower it.

I did, £475 from the Skoda dealer. £420 from my local garage I use for MOTs - not a main dealer. After I booked at Ford, the VW garage came back with a quote of £449 or £499 including the water pump. I'm tempted to cancel with Ford and go with the £499 at VW which includes the water pump (only £34 more than Ford) - this would mean the coolant gets changed too - which probably needs doing. What do you reckon ? Hmmm.....If it were me....... I would probably go for the VW garage but also get them to change the thermostat too (about £10 extra). BEFORE the job is done, make sure they use genuine VW parts and check they give a 2 or 3 year warranty on the job and parts (think that 2 year should be standard at VW). Be a dork and ask them if they also change the tensioner and cambelt roller(s) - as they should. Ask them to retain the changed items for you to check their condition and establish they did actually change everything they should - tensioner, rollers, etc. In theory the VW garage would probably have the most experience of the job (1.9 engine in many VW cars as well as the sharan) and should be less likely to ferk it up. Not all the coolant will be drained - asking them to do that will be a fair bit more work and could leave you with air lock problems. If you have topped up the coolant in the past with non genuine coolant, you should have all the coolant drained. Likewise if you were foolish to put in lots of plain water and the coolant has turned a murky colour instead of the factory fresh pink. Otherwise I would just ask them for the coolant to be topped up with original VAG G12++ to a 40% concentration (I think 30% is the normal UK spec, the 40% (scandinavian) will give you better corrosion protection) Lastly as they have to remove the auxillary belt and PAS belt (if there is a seperate one on your engine), it would probably be worthwhile to change those too - it should cost no more than the cost of the belts - which if you um and ahh in front of them you should obtain at 20%+ discount.

Having come across this somewhat creative fix :o posted by Fred, I'm not surprised his turbo died and I predict his replacement will have a short life too. Ignore oil pressure warnings at your peril Fred! Surprised your turbo lasted as long as it did. :rolleyes:

Ouch! I swear that my local Skoda dealer has a fixed price board something like £295 for cambelt change - same price on all cars from Fabia to Superb and Yeti. As they are part of VW dealership next door I would expect around the same for a Shalaxy. Did you phone around a few VW/Skoda/SEAT/Audi dealers?

Is that white engine cover OEM? Maybe its something reeeeeally special. :rolleyes:

Whatever you do - dont pull them! :lol: You're probably refering to the bits the rear tonneau cover clips into.

Some models (notably Ford engined) have an icing thermo switch mounted on the evaporator. You may have had a build of sludgy bacterial growth somewhere in the evaporator near the switch, restricting airflow and/or allowing ice to build up or the temperature to drop excessively around the switch, so switching off the compressor as the switch tripped. Then at some point this blockage/mould was dislodged (hence the smell) and the airflow restored around the switch preventing excessive ice.Maybe a blocked drain tube was the initial reason for your problem. Alternatively it could have been a slipping compressor clutch due to low voltage (grinding noise), but now is OK due to connector righting itself. Smell might have been electrical or mechanical.

Don't worry Chris. As usual I would recommend anyone changing anything on any car, to carefully check part numbers etc. Its rare that engine variants share parts like Turbos. There can even be variations during the production run of an engine variant, so it may even depend on engine no.

Well at least it was a nice place to break down. If you phone your insurance they may give you a heavily discounted introductory price for cover (usually Greenflag). Otherwise shop around on the internet. Remember to check at renewal time, as with house insurance, they usually hike the price on renewal. How much did the incident cost you? - when you take into account the cost of breakdown cover, excesses, phone calls, claims, exclusions etc. it may not be worth it. Also if you don't go abroad too often, it may be a lot cheaper just to insure the trip rather than take annual cover.

Sorry chris but Mk1 90bhp variants e.g 1Z, AHU are fixed vane, wastegate controlled turbos. 110bhp models AFN etc are VNT turbos.

I think its likely to be a faulty injector wiring loom and/or connectors. Do a search on wiring loom for lots more info. Initial advice would be to clean the injector connectors. A new wiring loom cost around

I think Daves a mk 1 Tdi. I think you need to start by physically checking the belt is correctly fitted. Could be the distibutor pump is one notch out or the camshaft is one notch out. I think there are pictures/diagrams on the forum, try a search.

Why don't you try FAQ 42 for a start. the FAQ and the search facility is there for a reason! There is a mass of information on this forum if you bother to search for it. No-one can be an expert on all the engine variants and none of us are going to start hand holding or teaching basic mechanics.

You say you started it up and the water pump moves ok? But are you sure the impeller is moving as well and is not jammed? Head problem wouldnt give a cold radiator. Radiator might be blocked though.

This is one reason my son decided against a Citroen C4 Grand Picasso. Seems 95% of them are motability cars - and this seems to reflect in the service charges at the dealers - almost twice as expensive as a VW dealer.