seatkid

Yes. Among the many things are size of injector, revised cylinder head and valves, additional oil cooling, different gearbox final drive, revised braking etc etc. Thinks 180 is figment of someones imagination.....

In my experience...(with other engines [sAAB]) If the head gasket leaks, the (hot) gas pressurises the water system, the cap blows off and this is where most of the water exits.....rapid overheating then follows due to low water....Its usually a dramatic sequence of events, as the leak almost always causes a rapid distortion of the head/block interface.

Danny Boy's problem seems to be dragging on a bit..... Danny boy, 3 things to check - did they put the correct oil in? The TIS mentions there are thermostatic flaps that shut the air flow through the radiator when cold. I'm not sure these exist but if they do, then check they are open... Does the electric cooling fan work?

1. Herschel Krustovsky 2. Springfield 3. 1998 Alhambra 1.9Tdi 90bhp 4. Almost 9 years 5. No. This one has to last another 10 years. 6. Me, about

just swap em.... BTW mine cost

Why would you expect the bottom hose to be hot? Diesels are that efficient and the radiator that big, that my bottom hose is almost always cold (the stat is virtually closed). If you have good constant output (hot) from the heaters (particularly the rear) it indicates the circulation is fine. The only sure way to get the bottom hose hot is to leave her idling, turn down heaters to zero and put on lots of electrics (but not aircon as this kicks in the cooling fan automatically). Check to see if the water radiator starts to get hot (from top, working down - beware! watch out for the fan starting and your fingers!!. IMO The proper thing to watch is the oil temperature. If the heater output (on a good run) is only luke warm or less or fluctuates, it'll be the pump. Leaks in the head would be obvious as you'll get a large increase in water temperature and much loss of coolant through over pressure....

buying a vauxhall tigra must have been a accident....

try a new fuel filter, or at least drain it. Sounds like water in the filter.

Sounds like a golf ball.....nothing in my fins......

No, unless its under warranty then its yes, or you live in a dusty desert, or insist on only driving 2-3 miles each time, or use cheap oil.... Apart from aircon, drop links, track rod ends and battery, very little... :lol: If you leave your car out in all weathers, look out for deteriation of belts..... Change your oil and filter maybe every 8k instead of 5k.... The MOT will take of the rest.... *this post is Seatkid's personal opinion and not necessarily the opinion of this forum :(

As usual with newcomers, we are left guessing details about your car, i.e. engine variant, year etc. According to my crystal ball(s).....I guess you have a Mk1 Tdi 90 or 110 bhp engine. (i.e. not PD) Yes, oil filters should always be changed with the oil.... OE (Original equipment) oil filters on these engines (metal cannister types) usually have a hex head or a slot welded underneath them to allow you to use a socket/spanner/screwdriver to loosen them. One good reason for replacing with an OE type! If you cant undo it with two hands then its been overtightened. When fitting a new filter, smear a little oil on the rubber sealing ring, spin it on until the sealing ring just contacts the mating face then tighten by between 1/4 and 1/3 turn. Refill oil and check for leaks after a short run.... If its on too tight, you might have to resort to hammering a large screwdriver through the side to get leverage (messy!!!). I've never found those band tools of any use..... Don't forget to replace the copper washer on the sump plug (although I rarely do :lol: ). I'm too idle to look up torque setting, as its a soft copper seal, just don't overtighten!! Watch you don't crossthread.....very expensive mistake..... Of course PD engines are completely different....(paper filter and replace entire sump plug....)

I would recommend either a good psychiatrist or marrying into an oil baron's family..... :lol:

That'll sort the Jatco box out..... :lol:

Could be glowplugs, but more likely battery....(is starter turning over slower than usual?) but first check the alternator is charging correctly (14+ volts at battery terminal with headlights and heated rear window on - 1500 rpm), then check glowplug circuit. Chance you blew something with that jumpstart.....

Dunno, but foaming at the mouth is said to indicate madness or foot & mouth.... :lol:

I seemed to have lost track somewhere, what did poor ol Dave G say that brought such an obscure but pointed response? :lol:

Dellboyt :angry: If you read the thread,:) I gave an answer (i.e. agreed with VR6galaxy). It is either the lid switch (faulty or adjustment is out) or the tail gate wiring thereto (which as regular readers will be aware is a common problem). The switch is located next to the tailgate lock motor, and you need to remove the tailgate interior trim to gain access to it or to adjust it. I don't see the point in anyone wanting to delve any further if the car is still under warranty. What else is there to say?.... :)

Think about it....do you really want a car with four cats, two turbochargers,two ECU's, twin MAFs, cambelts, and an incompetent service network? :) Not to mention 16.5mpg URBAN consumption :) ! (auto V10 Tdi)

Why not let Ford sort it under warranty...

why not warranty job?

The diesel engines fitted in Galaxies, Sharans and Alhambras are all VW units. There is no such thing as a "twin cam" VW Tdi engine. The AFN prefix and the red border on the Tdi badge confirm this is the 110bhp variant of the unit (with Bosch distributor pump i.e. not the later PD engine) The same engines are available throughout the Galaxy range. Reference to the "much sort after Zetec engine" is sales speak...roughly translated it means "I'm pi**ing up your back don't you know?" "Zetec" on a Galaxy refers to a trim and equipment level. To confuse people, Ford do do "Zetec engines", but these are Ford's petrol engines....

Your galaxy central locking has been programmed to enable the SWMBO overload sensor. This detects when she has exceeded her shopping budget..... or it could be the courtesy light switch/wires for the boot lid which tells the CLU that its open and disables the auto relock. You can prevent auto relock when you open any of the doors for a moment...

VR6galaxy you will have to change your name to VR6sharan before long.... :( Shop around, why not try Rapidfit? They are at most large Ford outlets and I'm sure they'll price match AND use original parts AND have done Galaxies before.

:D I'm sure my engine is more responsive and smoother after fitting my free Sainsbury dangly air freshener..... It will make no difference on a VAG Tdi as fuelling and boost is ECU limited. The only difference maybe a few millisecond reduction in turbo wind up time and even earlier MAF failure. :D

Could be a whistle from a (lack of) O ring leak.... :o Not refitting the O ring somewhat defeats the point of changing the cheap? air filter