seatkid

:o But the last laugh would be the copper's who would immediately arrest him for obstructing/perversing the course of justice :wub:

NEWBIES ARE FAIR GAME. :blink: They are too bloody lazy to read the guidlines, fill in details about their car, do a search, check their own words to see if it makes any sense and a lot of them ask stupid questions such as MY CAR IS MAKING A FUNNY NOISE ANY IDEAS? :lol: As for those with incomprehensible posts, I'm sure a significant number are just pulling the piss with their txt speak, this is not a chav forum. Anyone with genuine language difficulties would do well to point that out to start with, and the members will all respect that. BTW I am taking a course in mind reading :lol:

Galaxys are all on fixed service intervals - 10,000 miles or one year whatever comes first. The service indicator is set to display at the same intervals. The reason it came on at 15k is simple - it was a year since it was last reset - i.e. when you had it "serviced", the idle buggers didn't reset the service indicator (in my experience they rarely do). Fortunately, it is easy to reset yourself. Just press and hold the trip button, turn the the ignition key on and continue to hold the button for five or six seconds - voila! ...the service indicator is reset! Don't blindly follow the service indicator - if it isnt reset when it should be, its a meaningless tool. Use your service record instead to determine when you want it serviced. :blink:

hmmm...

i FOLY EGRIE

Double Rubbish! :lol: The glow plugs run for a few seconds after start up, true. But there is no "reduced setting" (only a relay involved here). When do you last change the fuel filter - water in the fuel filter causes misfiring symptoms to start with.

:( Ah....good ol lump hammer....is there nothing it can't cure? :blink: :ph34r:

Whats this doing in the Galaxy tech section? Can the mods please move this to the appropriate section - "Donkeys and other means of transport"

:blink: theres one born every minute.......take it steady for 200 miles, it may kick in magically...... Lessons in life at

I am getting fed up to the back teeth being stuck in queues behind newish cars (volvos seem to be the main culprits) which belch out black smoke every time they nudge a few feet forwards. Tuning boxes work by either artifically extending the injection times or massaging MAF/temp readings to the ECU. The ECU is unaware that something is wrong with its kit.....therefore emmision control is out the window. Not only is the car breaking the (EU) law, its poisioning those kiddies in the buggies at the roadsides, and the driver is blissfully unaware that his oil is sooting up several times faster than normal and engine wear is likely when the oil is "saturated". Also the idea of better mpg is largely a myth, the ECU is unaware that the metering of the fuel has been tampered with and calculates mpg according to the manufacturer's original setting. Remapping is a different kettle of fish, but I am pretty sure that the ECU manufacturer doesnt release code and most outfits reverse engineer code. I am also sure that they do not have anywhere near the equipment and knowledge to remap and stay with emission limits - which by law has to be for the lifetime of the engine....

Who makes own brand products is a closely guarded secret. I have tried very hard to find out who makes VAG's Quantum oils, without success. Yes. I have "heard" that Halforld fully synthetic is Esso Ultron but IMO thisis little more than rumour that has become myth. What I do know is that Halfords, Tesco etc. change their suppliers from time to time and look for the "cheapest". It is far more likely that they give their contracts to minor "bit" players. The advice on oil is straightforward - 1. check the specs on the can are the exact spec required for your engine 2. change oil and filter at the recomended interval. 3. Ignore the marketing hype. i.e. Magnatec has no magic "magnetic type" properties..... 4. DO NOT USE ADDITIVES - take that from someone who learnt the hard way.....

Make sure its not the tyres first.

Not as far as I know. You might have a blockage in the intercooler causing excessive pressure. Isn't the car under warranty? :lol:

It's almost certainly is because your glow plugs arent working. Check F74 (60A) fuse that feeds the glow plug circuit and F32 (3A) that feeds the relay coil. Both are in the box under the dash. The Glow plug relay is K70

Black/Yellow cables are earth (0v or ground) cables, it doesnt matter which is connected to which.

And we all know what happens when you "wash down" a VR6 engine.........help my vr6 sounds like a tractor!...

Do a search :rolleyes: and you will find dozens of threads on this subject. The linkage seizing is a very common problem. Almost as common as lazy buggers who can't be bothered to search. There is even step by step instructions on how to fix them.. :o

This is getting stoopid! Read my lips..... :rolleyes: The colour of the base denotes the rated life. (There is a tradeoff between life and brightness) There is no such thing as a filament bulb that is "AC" opposed to "DC".

Sounds like its low on gas, it makes that kind of sound just before it stops working (low pressure)

;) Happened with mine, what I found was the brake pedal was not always returning to the fully off position, and I could pull the lever up with my foot a centimetre or so. Can't remember what I did exactly, but I think it was just to pump the pedal vigourously a number of times, making sure the pedal came fully back. I also applied the handbrake (whilst static) several times making sure the handle was hard on and then released fully to the floor. Problem then disappeared. IMO it was just the gentle nature of my braking that led to the problem. But I do tend to check every now and then, just by hooking the pedal up with my foot, whilst driving.

You could of course stop making love in your car. That always fogs up the windows! ;)

Anadin is right. It is probably a bad earth. Remove the battery and check the negative strap where it is connected to the chassis. Undo this, clean and refasten. This problem has been reported on the forum a number of times before and is due to corrosion.

But that was centuries ago! ;)

;) Come on now! I read most posts and its always the same few (hard core) members.....If you look at the posts in the the last month - then look at the members involved - then you get the number of active members - maybe 100 at most I reckon.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Sorry......what was the question again? :lol: Some people think I live on a different planet........wrong!...I live in a different Galaxy!! ;) Anyway does anyone know the correct torque setting for the front ashtray holder self tapping screws? (98 Mk1 TDI with AHU engine, if this helps... :16: )