seatkid

No....changing a clutch can involve just changing a clutch plate. Often (after examination) the pressure plate is reused, the actuators in a pressure plate can stick or be broken internally (not visible) causing the fault you describe. Thrust bearings usually don't get changed nowadays in the same way as tensioners dont get changed on cambelts - its over looked. Thrust bearings sometimes stick on the gearbox shaft. Almost no-one would check the actuator arm as its so simple it rarely gives problem. But they can bend or the hinge mechanism break. Are you a woman?

I too have seen a couple of Galaxies on the hard shoulder with engine fires. Air-con not working is not safety critical. Fire risk due to design or component fault is.

Find the switched live wire to your HU, check it for (switched) 12v with a meter (or a bulb)....and start tracing backwards to the ignition switch. Its probably a fuse but I don't have my ball out today :25: to guess your car model, year, colour, etc etc :P

You can try, but from experiences posted on this forum, it rarely works and the one or two that said it did said the effect was temporary. The difference is that Galaxy MAFs use hot film technology and Scorpio use (old fashioned) hot wire technology. To clean the MAF sensor, remove the sensor head from the MAF housing (i.e. from the side via 2 security torx screws)

My pleasure :P Make up your mind...anyway, it has been used as a Taxi which is pretty obvious with 57,000 miles in a year. I hope you got that in writing..... Thats news to me....

I would write to Ford as an important safety issue quoting all known facts and ask them for comments. Warn them of the possibility of class action if this fault turns out to be common.

Is unlikely to damage anything if : 1) It wasnt dramatically overfilled - i.e more than 1.5cm over the top max mark and 2) You were aware of it and drove carefully (e.g. NOT violent acceleration or steering manouvers) The main issue is if the oil finds its way in quantity into the cataylic convertor where it can cause damage in some cases. For peace of mind, ask them to conduct an emissions test after the "oil change" (bet they just drain a bit....) to establish the cat is still working.

:lol: Come on! Lets be honest about a few things here.... Most manufacturers warranties have an exclusion clause when the vehicle is "used as a taxi" (which I think is reasonable). Certainly Ford's extended warranty (i.e. yr 2/3) definitely is excluded here. Even if it was used for domestic purposes only, having your car serviced by your brother is not the same as having it serviced at a VAT registered garage using original parts. (which is what the law requires regarding warranty claims). You seem to have received more than enough "good will" beyond the normal (domestic) warranty period. And way beyond the commercial use period of one year. I suggest that had you been really concerned about your fault you would have engaged the services of another dealer/garage or even your brother to investigate this fault. I cannot conceive of a clutch fault that cannot be resolved by changing everything associated with the clutch, (and more than once). It is far more likely to be associated with the way the car is being used. If you are honest with the facts, I don't think you stand any chance of recourse in law. I don't normally support dealers or Ford - ask any other member - but in this case, I'm sure if I were you I would have got shut of this car way before now - unless I knew the dealer was a soft touch.....

Try swapping connections for 1 and 5.....and give it a brief go.

?? :D The last time I looked, the rear quarter windows were flat.... :lol: If using cheap (i.e. thin) film, the only way for the novice is to remove the window glass and do it on a flat table in a room with no draughts. Meticulously clean the glass, spray plenty of soapy water, lay the film on confidently, use a good quality blade to squeeze the water out, then finally trim the edges with a *new* stanley blade or scalpel. Its a bit like plastering.....either you can or you cant.....

Check all the lights in the rear cluster. I may be wrong but IIRC the check circuit checks the brake and side lights.... NB. There are 2 side lamps per side in the the rear clusters.

Nicole...... :huh: Papa?....... :( I told you stop with the "shakithadass"..... :( Oh papa, my boyfriend says eet gives me "Vavavoom" :(

Have you changed the air filter recently?

Are you perchance a ford or a vw dealer? :blink:

The fuel cut off valve is fed from the diesel distributor pump via a white/black wire. Locate pump (front of engine) and check the connector and wire. This wire runs back to the ECU and then back to the fuel cut off valve at the front of the engine. As the ECU is detecting intermittent feed the problem is either between the pump and the ECU, or in the pump or the loom/connectors to the pump / ECU

Let me guess... :blink: It was something loose on or near the engine and they "fixed" it.... I once started stripping out an engine bay for a mysterious rattle only to find out it was an empty coke can in one of the drinks holders...(seriously) :blink:

4 button clock is an option rarely found below the artic circle. You're reading the wrong part of the manual..... Inside, under the N/S rear panel is the ....rear heater.... The booster heater is a fuel burning unit under the car in front of the N/S rear wheel. It has a small exhaust pipe c/w mini catalytic convertor.....

Have you put the right leads back on the right coil pak connection? Sounds like a couple are wrong....

How can I unplug mine for the summer? p.s. I've only got one wife.... :blink:

Small wonder..... as its usually the tensioner or idler roller that fails.....thats why THESE ITEMS SHOULD BE CHANGED along with the cambelt.....err the price of those bits is somewhat more than the belt. :blink:

I think your imagination is getting the better of you. IF they used the wrong oil....then you get premature camshaft wear - not something that would give increased noise and vibration. Check for loose bits and bobs - for instance trim above and in the bumper, loose or badly routed wiring looms etc. These tend to increase their rattling with age. Also turn up the radio...... It can be normal for an engine to "rattle" for a second or two after it has stood for several hours. The engine oil is filling the hydraulic tappets during this time...

Correct! And I hope you dont make a habit of soiling this forum! :D The answer to your problem - change your disks as well - they are worn out.

Great shame. But we all know he courted disaster regularly. Did he get too close this time? I feel for his family.

You must be joking! :lol: Try looking here or on a million other computer sites to make an informed decision.

What will happen to this forum regarding MkIII Sharan/Alhambra owners when that comes along?