seatkid

Sorry to hear you've given up. As regards electrical information, full detailed electrical schematics are available both on the Ford TIS CD (versions of which are available to download free, but will only run on Windows XP or earlier) and the equivalent VAG EKTA. If you bought a cheap VCDS cable off ebay, its well known these are of variable quality and some chinese cables dont work properly. I've looked at your previous posts and unfortunately they tend fall into the newbie category of "provides little information and expects instant answers" - a lot of newbies expect magic super technicians to hold hands and give instant perfect diagnosis - it doesnt work like that. There is a lot of detailed knowledge on this forum (if you search) - some of which is excellent and some which can be misleading - thats the nature of a public forum. No-ones paid to sit here and give technical analysis 24/7 or, as expected by some, to do all the foot slogging and searching for them. Below is a circuit schematic for your airbags I expect the airbag modules to be a low resistance (< 3 ohm at a guess) as they are pyrotechnic devices - merely saying they are dead shorts is not very informative. Good luck anyway with whatever you decide to do... BTW the supply fuse as far as I can work out is the same as for the instrument cluster F1 - 10Amp, also check F17 -10amp. The diagnostics are all commoned up so not being able to communicate is either a cheap ebay cable problem or the airbag module has been disconnected somewhere - check you reconnect the airbag module when reinstalling it in the steering wheel.

First thing - is your key a remote fob type? If so, did it get dropped/opened at any time? - if so the PATS chip (immobiliser) may have fallen out. Have you another key you can try?

I'm not sure what you are saying. Did it jump start ok? Is the car engine starting and running normally now? In which case the battery was flat but you now revived it. Its difficult to say if the flat battery or another fault has triggered the airbag fault, but the only way to reset the light is via diagnostics (e.g. VCDS). VCDS will tell you more about the fault if there is one.

Sounds as if your battery died and went to heaven....

Engine type? Look up relay 30/ relay 27 - that is often the cause of intermittent starting problems.

As earlier mentioned its most likely the roll restrictor bar fixing bolt has sheared. It will still appear as if its in place but the bar will move with engine acceleration/decelleration and make a loud bang. Roll restrictor is mounted under the car between the gearbox and subframe. Another thing to check is the rollbar mounts/bushes.

sounds as if you are joining the duff keyfob club - mine does that - its not batteries.

Yours was well gunged up by the sound of it which may be an indication of too much gentle driving? An italian tuneup can help keep things clean if done reasonable regularly and before things get too bad. You got all that done for £230?? Good price.

Intermittent connector in Injector Wiring loom. Relatively common. New Wiring loom or clean and adjust the receptacles in the injector connectors (which unfortunately are under the rocker cover) Obviously it may not be enough of a problem to need sorting immediately.

Sounds like broken and/or shorted wires in the rubber gaitors to the doors/tailgate - common problem and covered in the technical FAQ sections (3 topics)

Possibly the MAF sensor (if it has one?) - disconnect it and see if it makes any difference.

Probably a cracked cylinder head (small cracks around exhaust valve) or a duff head gasket. Often brought about by someone remapping or chipping their engine.

Sorry you got so upset, perhaps a little too harsh on my part. BUT, afaik reprogramming a remote key is covered in the manual and is the only reprogramming procedure there is..... If you cant get the car into programming mode (door led on continuously) then either (in the words of Steve Jobs) you're doing it wrong, or you have a fault (broken wires in the door gaitor or someone broke something when fitting the new lock). Does the central locking actually work? Make sure you follow the procedure precisely, particularly the timing of the key movements (minimum 0.5secs max approx 1.5secs). It should work on the passenger side lock too (mine does) , maybe even the boot lock. Once you have the car in programming mode, its touch and go if an older key will reprogram (more precisely, the car will accept the key) as older fobs tend to die (even with new batteries and leds flashing away....) Oh...and I expect you would already know that you would use the key that actually moves in the lock (and locks/unlocks the car) to enter program mode.... There is an alternative procedure here but I think this is for pre 97 models. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/9055-programing-infra-red-remote/?p=70615&do=findComment&comment=70615

AFAIK its 4 years / 40,000 miles for all PD engines. Some members have stated that engines built after 2003/4 have a revised design with a 60,000 mile/4 year interval, but I'm not sure. Phone Ford Customer Services and ask them :unsure:

I do wish people could be arsed to SEARCH the forum!

Standard stuff really - Dual system (split diagonally) - Brake Disks all round - vacuum servo assisted. By 1998 most models except base models would have ABS otherwise they have a rear pressure limiter as most cars without ABS would. Cable operated handbrake operating on rear discs- self adjusting (prone to some problems due to internal corrosion in the mechanism)

Oh......didnt imagine it could be so different for the mk2. In that case ignore all my previous posts - that photo looks as if water could be a problem. Even more reason for me to stick with my Mk1.....

No, its the top left corner of the radiator grill (looking toward the front of the car) - It has a fine (snow) grill and connects to a large pipe going to the bottom section of the large airbox (with bottom valved drain holes IIRC) in the engine bay. Air to the engine is taken from the top half of the airbox - Don't think you'll have any problem with water ingress into engine. (Mk1 info - I presume the Mk2 is the same)

I think he means recirc ON - that way the pollen filter is not in the air path.

oh and dont forget to check the central locking and remote key, also should have at least two keys.

2 ft 6 inches (75cm)

Considering that it will cost at least £50 to refill, a new pipe at £60 seems a reasonable price to ensure a reliable repair.

leeroy, it can be a number of things. If its a Ford 2.0 or 2.3 petrol engine, they have a deicing switch on the evaporator. If your pollen filter is blocked or the fan speed is very low, ice can build up on the evaporator and the deicing switch operate. The system may have been overfilled with refridgerant gas. In hot weather the pressure build up and the 3 way pressure switch (hi - normal - lo) may trip to protect the components. It may be a dicky pressure switch or dicky exterior temperature sensor or loose/shorting connectors/wiring.

Previous owners/likely what it was used for, mileage, age,condition, service history (cambelt and oil type important), is genuine oil filter fitted, repair history, accident history, hpi check, long mot (check advisories) whether everything works, warranty and most important a detailed inspection all of this is important. Check everything - tyres inc spare (and whether winch works) - aircon working, look underneath - brakes/suspension, all windows working, wipers not slow, take for a good test run, listen for knocking/banging/grinding noises - avoid automatics completely - check acceleration is as per spec and will accelerate to 70mph briskly. Check gauges all showing normal - try a high speed run on motorway to check for overheating, check coolant is correct colour (pink not brown). Then inspect it again. This is not a complete list by any means.

Theres no provision for bolting to the floor, unless you drill the mounting points yourself, but there are tie down eyes in the corners for use with bungee cords etc. You can also use the mounting points for the removed seats. As for size, that up to you to determine, there is room for a very large crate without the 2 rear seats. Personally I would not transport dogs in a crate/cage - I think its cruel. Our 10kg spaniel loves to travel in a window seat (preferably on the booster seat which gives her a great view.) When both grandkids are aboard, she loves to travel on the middle seat between them. She sometimes jumps down and lies in front of the middle foor vent if the a/c is on.