johnb80

Thats a definite no no. Springs don't wear, they simply break as their life ends, damper/shock absorbers do wear and changing one is definately NOT recommended. Regards - JB

Head gasket failure doesn't always give oil & water mix, it can fail between cylinders, to the outside world, into the water jacket or into the oil galleries. My sierra had a heater matrix that did exactly whats happened here, the plastic header simply let go, no warning, no water leaks just a dull thud followed by lots of steam and loads of hot water. After replacing the matrix, everything was fine i.e. no head gasket problems. Regards - John

Sounds favourite, never done it on a Gal but I have done many other cars. Once the dash is out of the way it should be easy. Regards - John

But thats WOMENS WORK Head down now :lol: Regards - JB

You should be able to start in P or N

NO, NO NO...... The solenoid for the selector only stops you moving the lever from Park or Neutral without having your foot on the brakes. The INHIBITOR switch will prevent you turning the engine over unless you're in Park or Neutral. Regards - JB

:o :( :rolleyes: :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :lol: :D :lol: :D :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D :D GALAXY

Mines fine and always has been!

No you can't without substantial mods. The flaps inside the heater / cooling / fan unit are controlled by motors on the cc unit instead of cables on the ac unit. Not saying it can't be done but it would be a lot of work. Some people would tell you what you have is better, more reliable etc. I've got cc on mine and I would disagree with them 100%! Regards - John

Oh yes........ Working ones and broken ones :( Sorry - JB

As the previous poster said the Gal is a lot heavier and can of course carry a lot more on board than the Mondeo. Add to this it's not as aerodynamic and you would expect the performance to be well down. That said, the Gal should be a lot more stable and safer towing than the Mondeo. You fuel consumption I would say is about right, i can just get mine into the 30's towing a huge Tow-A-Van. Regards - JB

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e104/johnb80/f1accident7vw.jpg Sorry to disappoint.... You're a sadistic lot :D

It's possible that some of the plastic chain guides may have broken up. That would need more movement from the tensioner to keep the chain tensioned and hence the rattle. I havent suffered this on a 2 litre but I did have it on a 2.9 24v Cosworth Engine. Regards - JB

If you've got auto it's definately NOT 130 or 150.

The Capri was an absolute brute, it cornered like a canon ball (live rear axle), the turbo was very ill mannered with loads of turbo lag (1900 rpm nothing 1901 rpm max boost #8o) The one thing that was good, broadspeed fitted a keyswitch that allowed you to dump the turbo boost, it did however leave the turbo running at full boost speeds. On one occasion I was getting 'pushed' by a 3 litre Capri which was just marginally faster than the Broadspeed Bullet when the turbo was off. The max speed of the std 3 litre was around 125 and the BB around 122. Just as he got his nose in front, turn the key and it felt like someone had hit the back of you, it really did take off and totally pi$$ed off the other 3 litre :D Mine did suffer a distributor problem that was only found after it had broken 2 cranks. The cranks were nitrided and balanced and they split nicely in the middle, after much investigation by Broadspeed they located a fault on the dissy that was firing a cylinder at the wrong time. It also damaged the turbo. They were very good and did all the repairs under warranty. I must admit, I'm amazed on two counts, the first I actually survived this car (it was really mean and I was 20 yrs young) and secondly I never got any points on my license while I owned it! Regards - JB

I used to tow a 27' glider trailer and that did use to snake from time to time. Giving it some throttle would pull it straight and stop the snake BUT, you had to have loads of power for it to work. At the time my tow vehicle was a Broadspeed Bullet (MKII Capri, 3.1 litre turbo'd). Regards - John

Option 2 was how I got a ticket many moons ago. 60 limit, 4 cars, straight road all doing 45 ish. I overtook them all, pulled back in, down to 60 on the dot (cruise control on) and continued for 4 miles, down to a 30 limit, speed bang on 30. 1 mile later accelerated back to 60 in a 60 limit and got pulled by plod. When I was overtaking my speed was measured at 69 mph. He commented that at all other times I was bang on the speed limit but in his opinion that was irrelevant. I use mine daily, even short streches it's easy to enable etc. I find on the motorway going slightly slower than average, I can leave it on most of the time. Many satnav units have this facility

Reference to the article linked above. How can they say the speed camera causes the driver to panic brake? It's the fact that theyre exceeding the speed limit and are dangerous drivers that makes the panic braking occur NOT the speed camera. The traffic bunching is again bad driving - "Only a fool breaks the 2 second rule". Concentrating on the speedo - cr@p, glance at the speedo every 5 seconds, pay attention and speed can be maintained. Police and public who break the law relations have never been good. The camera is simply a tool for upholding the law in a cost effective way. Simple question, it's 2am, there's no-one around and you're on a road with a 40mph limit and there are no camera's. You tired and want to get home what speed would you drive at? 40, 50, 60? I'm sure most people (including myself) would go a bit above the limit. Now if there's a camera there would you go over the limit? NO has the camera done it's job YES so it's not blind faith IT WORKS. He's obviously a motorcyclist, most of us on here have it under our right foot to stop it happening. :lol:

Why is it that people spout all the crap about spending more time looking at the speedo in order to keep to 30 than the road. The 30 is a speed LIMIT, operative word being LIMIT. You dont have to drive at 30, you could drive at 27 mph giving yourself 8 mph leeway before getting a ticket. I don't buy the modern cars so quiet rubbish either, there's enough noise to tell if you're speeding or slowing down and a glance at the speedo every few seconds will confirm your speed. To be honest if you can't control your speed you shouldn't be behind the wheel. No excuses! Regards JB

Thats good news, the lumpy idle is strange, my Range Rover was noticeably smoother on LPG including idle than on petrol. LPG burns slower than the petrol vapour and thus doesn't give the same crack to the piston hence smoother. Have you had the idle mixture on gas checked? if it's rich the idle will be lumpy. Regards - John

Easter 1999, we'd never had a family holiday in 10 years, the boys had never flown / been abroad etc. I was lucky enough to get some work on a couple of oil rigs that paid absolute mega bucks. From one trip I came back with

I would have thought technically they're driving 'Without due care and ATTENTION' Regards - JB

Generally what I do when I join the back of the queue is be most of the way over in the lane thats closed. That stops the queue jumpers and drivers in the open lane usually let me in when we get up to the lane closure. It's interesting some of the reaction from the potential queue jumpers, Beemers and Mercs especially. Regards - JB

Have a good trip and may all your troubles be 'the' little ones :blink:

If I'm in a lengthy queue and people go down the outside clearly queue jumping when I get to the front another potential computer experience can be had.... CRASH ! There's no way you're coming down the outside to push your way in in front of me. If these morons joined the back of the queue the traffic would flow faster, it makes no sense at all to have all the three lanes up to the lane closed in use, you can only get 2 lanesworth of traffic through. Regards - JB