johnb80

It's not that bad and with modern controls works well. My original idea was to use the underfloor to provide background heat and then the aircon units to do the final bit as and when needed. It's proved not to be necessary though, the underfloor is so good (even though it's wet!). Regards - JB

I'd agree 100% with that, you could try lubing them and see if the problem goes away.

I think he will be referring to the possibilities of flooding, see messages on the subject. One of the favourites is the rear screen washer pipe has a joint under the carpet and it's not unknown for these to seperate. Having said that, raise the unit up on some foam or just keep an eye on the passenger footwell, it would have to be really bad and go un-noticed for it to get into this area but it is a possibilty. Regards - John

At least he'd know for sure :lol:

It was me that told you about the recess and you're welcome!. Thats almost identical to my Clarion installation, I used velcro on the bottom of the screen and hinged at the top just like you have. It really does make good use of the dash centre storage bin and when it's all folded away no-one knows SatNav is fitted. Regards - JB

The sensing ring would only show up when the car moves, if it's on all the time, not just after setting off it's more likely an ECU / wiring problem. Not sure if open circuit sensors would bring the light on straight away, double check the connectors, unplug them, make sure theyre clean and dry etc, especially on the wheels that have had the recent work done. Regards - JB

A few interesting ones mentioned here already, a couple of comments which I have no doubt will get some people heated under the collar, chill and think about this a little. 1) Leaving a gap when in traffic queue's. If you don't your cooling system will be getting hot air from the car in front, your ventilation system will be dragging in the exhaust fumes (and heat). In the event of a shunt you don't have any buffer zone and should the car in front break down you aint going nowhere when everybody else sets off. I always leave a bit less than a cars length to guard against the above and in start/stop queues I try to keep rolling slowly, for some reason this sometimes iiritates the drivers behind who want to race off then jump on the brakes - crazy. 2) Motorway driving and lane changing. The Institute of Advanced Motorists have a slightly different take on lane useage. Consider - when you are actually on the motorway i.e. not joining or leaving whats the most dangerous part of the journey? - changing lanes! Therefore you should minimise the lane changes and thus improve the statistics. Here's how it works, join the motorway and stay in the left lane. When you want to overtake someone move out one lane to the right (if there is one and of course mirror, signal, manouvre). When you have overtaken the vehicle stay in that lane until 1) Someone is approaching to pass you or 2) you need to overtake another vehicle in which case you repeat the above. I personally don't stay in lane 3 ever because if something comes over the central reservation the first stop is lane 3. Many drivers simply don't use their mirrors enough and you see many that swerve all over the motorway demonstrating how ridiculous the highway code can be if taken literally. Common sense and courtesy is all thats needed. My pet hates:- People breaking the lower speed limits, i.e. 30, 40 & 50. Mums on the school run and baseball hat clad yobs with Corsa'a are the favourites here. People driving round with their hi-intensity rear lights on when it isn't thick fog or falling snow. On the rare occasions I have used mine I treat them as main beam - when a car appears behind I switch them off. Drivers sat right up my back bumper, I'm happy to pull over and let them pass, I go to too many accidents caused by this stupidity. Let the flames begin :lol: Regards - JB

Isn't there an issue with this type of filter damaging the MAF? I seemed to remember somewhere a posting stating that theyre coated with an oil substance which pollutes the wire in the MAF sensor. I doubt there would be significant power gains, I have no doubt there would be significant noise gains. Regards - JB

I'd be very tempted to fit a new valve. Regards - John

30 minutes to vac down must mean it's a pretty crummy pump, the guy I use (tractor dealer) can vac the gas out in under 10 minutes, it gets filtered, weighed, topped up (if reqd) and then put back in. The dye should only be added if tehre's a leak, some systems specify that the UV dye must not be used. Regards - JB

If my theory is correct, cutting the wire would stop it working all of the time !

I would be double checking the earthing of the radio, the only link between the radio and the lights is the illumination of the controls. It is possible that if the earth on the radio has been lost, during the day time it gets the earth via the illumination and out through the lighting circuit, when the lights are on it no longer has this path. Just try adding a wire from under a screw head on the radio to somewhere on the metal body of the car. Regards - John

Idle Speed Control Valve. The engines idle speed is controlled by the electronics. The ECU has direct control over the amount of fuel going into the engine by pulsing the injectors for longer (=more fuel) or shorter (= less fuel) time. In order to keep the mixture at the correct level it also needs to control the amount of air going into the engine. It does this by having an ISCV, when it increases the voltage applied to this valve it opens, the higher the voltage the more it opens. On one side of the valve it's piped into the air cleaner, the other side it's connected into the inlet manifold. What usually happens is the ISCV gets gummed up, it isn't constantly being washed with petrol or oil and it sticks. The UCU ramps up the fuelling and opens the air valve to lift the engine idle, the fuelling goes up but due to a sticking valve the air isn't increased, this gives a rich mixture and the engine stalls. 9 times out of 10 the ISCV is the problem. The usual cure is to take the valve off or just remove one of the pipes and give it a good squirt of carb cleaner. It doesn't always do the trick and it is possible that there are other faults but this is the place to start. Regards - John

Glad you got it sorted, Galaxy forum 1, Fraud dealers 0 :o Regards - JB

I can't agree with you on that one, mine never glows longer than acouple of seconds no matter what the weather, in fact it doesn't vary at all. Regards - JB

If you can get to the potentiometer a quick squirt of switch cleaner or WD40 may result in an operating device again. Replacement is the only real fix but the above would certainly buy you more time. Regards - John

Check round the back of the intruments for cracks on the pcb and possibly the voltage regulator (covers both petrol and temp guages). Regards - JB

Very unlikely to be a coil pack, the ISV is the most likely cause or the ECU controlling it. It would be worth getting the ISV off the vehicle and connected up to a power supply to see if it moves smoothly and reliably without sticking or simply fit a new one. Regards - JB

Does this mean right hand side ? Please explain !! Nearside means Near the Kerb (UK driving) and off side means the side awat from the kerb - So nearside is left and offside is Right. :o Assuming that you're sat inside the car, if you're working under the bonnet or parked on the wrong side of the road it can take on a whole new meaning :o :D :D :D :D :D

AFAIK, it will turn itself off when everything is operable. You could try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes or so and see if that 'resets' the module. I personally think you may have other problems and it would be worthwhile getting the fault codes read. Regards - JB

I suspect it had sufferred a very hard life before the vandals finished it off. Regards - JB

In my opinion you have been misinformed!

If the low pressure side drops to zero the aircon would switch off and it would be very short of gas. regards - JB

It was me that recommended going to an agricultural specialist. I have had air conditioned cars for the last 20 years and I can honestly say the very best service and the cheapest was at a tractor dealer. They have all of the equipment, don't muck about, get the job done at a very good price, typically

Sounds good BUT if you want to be able to use it all year round aircon is a must. I've got Pilkington KKK glass in mine which is supposed to be the most efficient at keeping heat out in the summer and heat in in the Winter. My Conservatory is 12 metres x 8 metres, 1 Metre High wall, 5 cell roofing panels (tinted) and Sanderson blinds (nice but bloody expensive). Even with all of the above, roof vent open, Fantasia fans running the temp in the summer exceeded 50 deg C. I fitted one split aircon when it was built and that just would hold the temp down but could not reduce it on a hot day. A second unit was added I can now get the temp right down on the hotest of days, it plays tricks on your mind - blistering hot day, walk towards the conservatory with friends, they expect it to be mad hot when you open the door to sit in there :D , in we go 18 degC nice :lol: I use this room all year round, computing early morning and evening (too bright at other times), good music system (Creative Wireless Music linked to my server with over 2000 CD's files away on it all hear through Monitor Audio 2.1 Active Speakers), comfy cane chairs and a couple of tables. So, for my size of conservatory 11 Kw of heating / aircon and 7Kw of underfloor heating is what was needed. Regards - John