Richard gal

Well its back running again and after testing its all OK I blocked the egr vacum pipe and capped the ecr connection. It runs a little better if anything, less black smoke on hard acceleration and accelerates just as fast if not faster, which would all be logical as it isnt taking in Co2 when it really needs oxygen. I really dont know what to do now, kits are sold to avoid the ECR system altogether and theres hardly a LR td5 with its ecr still connected i am told!

Will it?? What about this i found then? http://www.egrvalve.co.uk/index.php?page=products You chuck the whole thing away and fit a plain pipe!

How long has the new belt been on?, it may need retensioning now its bedded in.

Had a pair of these on the REAR for 30,000 miles and still 40% good http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?deta...&LoadRange= They are now on the front with another set on the rear, they do give more road noise than michelin pilots i have now found!

Got the new Turbo on, and as dealer had said the EGR is highly recommended to be replaced at the same time according to Ford i took it of and had a look. It was operating ok but 50% choked with soot and carbon!. I hear of people blanking off the egr valve or capping the operating pipe, or even setting EGR=0 on Vag.com, is this a good idea?. i am worried the exhaust gasses willthen be very hot, and this may have been the original problem to an extent?

Hi, Lost power today towing caravan, couldnt get above 40mph and a fair bit of black smoke coming out the exhaust. Anyway got it back home and had a look roundand then heard tinny rattle, like turbo blades!. Let dealer have a look and he confirms turbo has gone, problem is, a replacement is

Update!, may be of help to others. I carefully undid the roof lining along the tailgate and reached in and pushed the roller round a little and it all works fine now, thing is when i searched this on a ford CD it was saying the belt roller was at the side? earlier model i wonder?

As above, it wont retract back, it seems fully out and giving it gentle/hard yanks, with the car still /moving, makes no difference. Any ideas before the roof lining has to come down?

How??? most of them havent got a switch!, and unless you lock it... using power! they dont go off for another 30 seconds

Anyone know what battery should be fitted to a 54 plate 130 ghp diesel Galaxy.. in cca /ah terms Mine gets very tired if the doors keep getting opened etc while not running... (so many lights!)

I had the same problem, the wire didnt keep pulling out and got tangled, you will have to get those bolts off somehow to get it all off the car. Once i had the winding box off i drilled out some of the rivets to get inside and untangle it all, no way would tightening and unwinding would have done it. Once sorted i welded it up again and am now very careful the wheel drops at the rate of unwinding

I use a big flat screwdriver to prise them in BEFORE removing anything.

Next time run heater on max (open windows!) and if it stays cool then its the radiator or thermstat... does the fan come on and cool it down if you stop and let it idle after a motorway run?

It may or may not work but wont cost anything; Disconnect battery, unplug airbag connector multiplug on the seat, wait 5 mins and refit in reverse order.

Dont worry you wont have done any damage, if you hadnt stopped it then it would have run longer. Once drained and new fuel filter it will be fine, i am told it happens about 1000 times a day.

Took me 4 goes before it worked.. possibly where you point the key.. or time taken ... who knows!

Jack up, remove wheel, check brake fluid isnt near top, put screwdriver in between pad and disc and prise apart fully, remove 2 bolts with allen key (they are inside rubber tube things) lift off calpier and pads, (dont strain brake hose), swop pads, reassemble, press brake pedal and then do other side. The allen key bolts are the hardest bit to undo, but usually no problem. If you have too much brake fluid in the system open bleed valve a little whilst prising pads.

I have fitted a hands free kit and all is working including radio mute but i need to add a aerial of some sort. There are stick on pad things to go on the windscreen and sticks that go on the other side of the glass, usuall side window. My question is are there any restrictions on wire (co/ax) routing in regard to air bags etc? the phone "box thing" is inside the centre console in front of the ash tray.

You can get the pads and discs off without bleeding, ... just remove caliper and pull out of the way, BUT! i found the pad sensor multiplug would not go through the gap between the small rigid pipe and caliper so had to loosen pipe a LITTLE. So long as the brake fluid isnt too full you should not need to touch it. Sounds like your brake light switch needs a squirt of WD40.

How did you get the plug through?, is mine a later bigger design? its about 25mm x 12mm oval with a tab off the side to locate when turned into its slotted steel holder. As for sensors, in the past with cars without sensors i have had one side down to metal with the other side one third left, this could have been due to sticky calipers or rough discs, but they dont always wear evenly.

Well, i will clarifiy! 1 The factor had 3 books from different makers for parts and they didnt agree. 2 The car was outside in full view for any further info but that was no help. 3 all other cars i have had sensors on have been on both sides 4 Its once you have the multiplug undone that you find it wont puill through the gap between the pipe and caliper, so it HAS to be undone.

Shouldnt they really be 97 rated though for galaxy use? I bought some linglong ones fronm the same place at

My car with 35K on the clock told me it wanted new pads, so off i went to a motor farctors for some. The assistants face fell when i said what i wanted, too many versions he said! Anyway we narrowed it down a little and went for the big disc version as most likely (only a dealer would know for sure... i think??) anyway it was a good (lucky) guess!. But! why has only one side got a wear warning sensor?, if the other disc gets a little rough it could be worn out first. And why should you have to remove/ loosen alot, the short metal brake pipe on the caliper to get the multiplug through to remove and refit? who designed this thing!???