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NikpV

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Everything posted by NikpV

  1. just to clarify -- the two areas of programming are separate..... REMOTE CONTROL OF DOORS you only need one remote key to be programmed/program to open the doors remotely (GEM system) - up to a maximum of 4 per car.... this relies on the active transmitter in the key fob STARTING THE CAR AND KEEEPING ENGINE RUNNING you need two working keys to program a third and subsequent keys to start and run the engine (PAT system) this relies on the passive chip in the key
  2. Thanks Glen for sorting things out ........
  3. since its being written written off I wouldnt worry abou it - IIRC an aircon pipe is likley to rupture as the engine moves - so what :unsure:
  4. NikpV

    My Galaxy

    nice house :rolleyes:
  5. I would suggest looking harder ! Try wiggling the wires where they pass through the gaiter into the door at the same time as pressing the button. i would definitely look harder given you get nothing in one direction - the lights dimming ion the other only indicates current being drawn - maybe not in the motor but in a partial short in the wires
  6. just had this with wifes escort - about same era - diagnosed as water damage to immobiliser chip in key !
  7. you can switch it back to Celsius by pushing AUTO and ECON simultaneously IIRC
  8. feel for you all - its one of the hardest decisions - my condolences :blink:
  9. check switches on brake and clutch pedals - these disengage the cc and if faulty may stop it engaging
  10. did the same to mine when I installed it a couple of years ago - the other thing that help was updating my smc barricade router/adsl modem to a netgear one when the barricade gave up the ghost (it was 7 years old) - line now syncs at 8Meg instead of 6Meg
  11. as foster says - engine roll restrictor - bolt at gearbox end - will look ok though defo test by rocking engine
  12. arbs is definitely a possibility - have a look in the faq - in the first few items
  13. looking here the extension wiring is pre - filtered
  14. just get a filtered replacement faceplate - cost about
  15. have a look here - link was on external links page in faq
  16. topic moved to mk2 technical section - come on gregers you know you've got your boys are posting for you now :rolleyes:
  17. you need 3+ posts to download/view pictures here - programming remote is detailled in the faq link 7 - click on the link in my sig for the faq
  18. will be a mk2 - mk1 finished about 1999-2000 look at the top of the faq for pictures of the 3 versions
  19. you need 4 or 5 posts to be able to view pictures on this site
  20. blimey gregers your fingers must be getting quicker - either that or the kid you get to read the posts is getting better :lol: by a minute
  21. I assume this is a mk 1 or mk2 not a mk3 (posted in mk3 area) .... does it get hot (little exhaust) if not then may well be glowplug in aux heater. have a look at the faq(click on link in my sig) link 1 - get a cuppa before reading!
  22. judder usually means that the linkage is on the way to seizing - drop the linkage dissemble and regrease - loads of posts on here about it
  23. post 6/7 in this thread shortcut here there are also other links in the thread to removing the trim panels and finding the positions marked on the inside ....
  24. for photo of pulley see here thanks to taliska
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