NikpV

9 years ago it cost

I'vve lost this part of my key - fell off at some point yesterday! I still have the plastic (emergency?) key, so am I able to get a locksmith to cut me a new one? At this point, I'm not bothered about not being able to use the C/L. :) umm no well he can probably cut the blade but it wont run the car unless it has a PATS chips already programmed which guess you have lost :-) with the key blade Unless you have 2 keys with programmed PATS chips you cannot code any more you will have to take it to Fords to code further keys....

How quickly is 'quite quickly'? Within a minute? An hour? I was hoping to open it, find out what batteries I need, get them, and then fit them; presumably I'll need to know what the batteries are in advance. couple of minutes(although recoding is easy if there are no other problems) iirc the batteries are 2032 x 2 again iirc 20mm diameter and 3.2 mm thick DO NOT LOSE the little black pats chip when opening the fob

Aha, but don't have access to the equipment for that, can I download the software for free? Then need to buy a lead to connect to the car? Where can I buy the lead to connect between the car and laptop? quick and dirty maf diagnosis - time yourself up a hill disconnect maf - redo timed hill - if slower MAF is probably ok if better or no change then MAF u/s - this has worked twice for me now - (155k miles)

as yet i am not convinced what the problem is but just trying to get a feel for the worst case scenario, at what point does the repair become uneconmic?? Local garage have done a few head gaskets on these and have quote

this looks like the one hiding in the bottom of my toolbox wind back tool

what did you check? pad thickness? connectors can come undone/corrode IIRC we are talking front nearside and rear offside. Separate the plug/socket and short out wth a bent wire (socket) to find which one

was that 'new' or pre-loved B) cylinder head ?

how much did it cost to sort ?

The pics on this thread appear to have been uploaded to the site as attachments, so maybe they went awol when the site fell over... or maybe it's because the original poster is no longer a member. It might be possible that admin could retrieve the pics, but they could be gone. The archive of old posts did not get put online after the last server move and maybe they are part of them unfortunately I cant aceess them as a lowly moderator - the original OP may have deleted them prior to that though in a fit of pique (long story)

Hi Nik Did you not say you had been pressure and gas tested? yes both but having talked to them the gas test was done with engine 'up to temp' not under load Do you get any excess pressure when removing cap, any sudden rise in coolant level and pumping out of coolant even with a barely warm engine. no certainly not with warm/normal engine temps. I know I keep on about the pump but far easier to confirm. Can you trust the garage to have checked this, it's only two bolts to remove stat housing can you not do this for peace of mind, removing head is your last resort unless it becomes obvious that there is excess pressure. I dont think they have tested the pump - I was going on the fact that I cant get it to overheat even with hard driving and the problem was evident straight after they installed the new pump My way of thinking about the pump, at low engine speed if impeller was loose there would be a small amount of friction enough to shift a small amount of coolant around the system, a sudden rise in RPM could cause more slip and result in little or no circulation until RPM falls, a bit like the viscous coupling from years gone by. Yes I can see what you are getting at here but why would there be loss of coolant when under load ?

yes starting to think along those sort of lines - what I was thinking that when not under load little or no gas leaking into coolant so circulation giving cabin heat but up to load enough combustion gas going in to stop the circulation and under demanding load losing water into cylinder and out of exhaust - go on boys what do you think - I can take it (I think) :-(

I was thinking this but It overheated quickly when the pump had gone and I cant get it to overheat now -

weren't designed to run on the london to brighton railway now were they ;):rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

bit puzzled by this - i could understand you unlocking the door sort off **the first time going from rest posistion but what is all ths locking the door business ????????? close the doors (nobody said lock them) Insert the key into the driver door lock cylinder and turn the key from the rest position to the unlock position three times within five seconds. You have to hold it in the unlock position for at least 5 seconds or it doesnt work :-) cant remember from the last time I did this whether the indicators flash or whether the led goes on for 15 sec - it must be at least 6 years since I last did it

does the led on the door go solid on ?? and then flash when the key buttons are pressed? If it goes solid then AIUI its gong into programming mode if the led doesnt flash when the buttons are pressed then either you havent pressed buttons correctly or the remote is dead :-)

well there is no loss of coolant if I run for any length of time at 65 but temp will be up to 90 and so no cabin heat - its only when I run for any length of time at 70+ there is sometimes loss of coolant but no evidence of where it goes - all the hoses behind engine have been replace. Coolant system has been pressure tested and I would have thought it would have detected split hoses then ?????

provided I am running along at 55 ish the engine temp stays constant at 80 and I get heat from both from and rear heaters nice and hot (well as hot as it ever gets)

get heat from both rear and front cabin heaters when not up to running temperature....when up to temp no heat from either doesnt matter what combination is on

thanx for the input Booster heater hasnt worked for 4 years now - somewhere I have a new glowplug but as I cant see how that would affect the current situation I havent bothered to fit it, new water pump was checked when the thermostat was - If it were overheating I would still suspect it but as it isnt ............

added to faq - thanks chris

Right - this is an odd problem ... Once the car is up to temperature there is no heat to the cabin. Christmas 2010 the water pump failed on its shaft, had that replaced (no debris). It overheated and got to about 110 before I noticed but backed off and got home with temp back on 90. Since then cabin heat has been a bit precious. Prior to the pump being replaced it used to get up to temperature and then stay there until the engine was turned off however I drove. Now I can get it up to temperature and keep it there with 'normal' driving but in an effort to save diesel whilst commuting I will often pootle along at 55mph, at that speed the engine stays on about 80 degrees and I have cabin heat :-) after a couple of roundabouts where I have to accelerate the temperature goes up to 90 and guess what no cabin heat :-(. The car does not overheat even if I push it - temp doesnt get above 90. The after run pump sounds like its still working. If I consistently drive at 60//65 there is no loss of coolant but driving faster sometimes results in coolant loss although there is no evidence of leakage and coolant pressure test is fine. I have dusted talc around reservoir and there is no evidence of water bubbling out through pressure cap. Had garage who did the original water pump change have a look, they have checked the thermostat and thats fine. I started wondering about the dreaded head gasket but there is no evidence of oil in water, water in the oil, over pressurising or when they did the gas over air test. Starting to wonder where to look now :-) ideas gentlemen (and gregers)

finally added :-( did anybody post in the add to faq thread - I look in there quite often

Any particular reason you think its the bonnet switch. I have had this a couple of times and both have been wires in the door to pillar boot :-)