NikpV

Possibly coolant temp sender - ecu decides on mixture based on that - (many moons ago it would have been the choke)

Cheers Bagpuss & Ivor_e_tower :47:

best sew up my sides then :47:

I'm getting old and its getting increasingly difficult to remember what type/age of car you all have when answering posts. It may be that the vehicle details section may apppear sometime in the future but until then It would be really helpful if you used one line of your signature to put the details. Go to my controls at the top, then select edit signature under personal profile on the left Please don't take offence if I can't remember your make/model of car, blame it on senility :47:

I thought the compulsory reinfored/extra load tyres came i with the 215's on the MkII - can ermember what car the OP has though :(

not the op - I assumed that S-reg would be 98 onwards - and thought they moved to the 2 key system from the red key system after 97 - may have got my dates wrong

its leakage current you need to measure although I can't see how this could increase in the filament, unless there is some voltage spike being produced which gives rise to a temporarilty higher current than normal this would prematurely age the bulb. I can't understand what you mean by sensing the earth?

No problem, Haven't tried removing connector from plug, usually with these sorts of things a very small screwdriver is needed to depress a retaining spring/lug which then allows the contact to be removed. If you do that rather than just solder a new bit of wire back in can you post back on how you managed it with some pictures so we ca extend the faq for everybody Tia

don't spend much on holiday :47:

yeah - I put

look in the faq - 2nd from bottom link here it is

While I like them - smaller would be better :D - just my opinion :D The reply box is awkward

Ok different drivers door lock - one non remote key All other lock (passenger/tail/ignition) - one remote key right You are trying to make the remote operate central locking. Ok (must have been the wine last night :D ) So you are putting the car into remote programming mode with one key and then trying to program the other. It appears that the car goes into programming mode but after pressing and holding lock etc the door led does not confirm that key has been accepted. Now when the GEM is programmed to accept the key information only passes from the key to the car (not the other way around) so if the Key itself flashes 5 times its nothing to do with the car.(in fact sitting here with the car a mile away- my remote flashes 5 times given the lock unlock sequence). In fact from your description nothing suggests that the car 'sees' the remote at all - the door led remains lit for 15 sec to program remote keys and does not respond with the 5 flashes ok signal. Conclusion - either remote is u/s (quite common) or battery in the remote key is getting low ( operates led but not enough for wireless) Dealer can test the remote for you.

sorry m8 didn't understand a word of that (maybe the wine - I'm not use to it) could you have another go at explaining it (feels dumb) :D :D

cruel oh so cruel

are you sure that problem has been solved? it sounds a little intermittent to me, unless the bulb has gone in the high level brake light I think you have a wiring problem between then tailgate and body which may be ok now but may fail/and or blow fuse again - it would be as well to check (unless bulb has gone) It may also be worth checking the wiring in the drivers side rubber boot - it failure here can cause all sorts of problems, it wouldn't cost anything and only take half an hour or so to check see link below examining wires in rubber boot What happens when you try and open the car from the tailgate lock - does it actuate the cl (ps it wasn't me who mentioned the cl module - too expensive to point the finger here yet given the possibilities in the wiring atm). As to reliability generally - some cars seem to suffer others are fine - the wiring for some is an issue however, whether its down do quality or poor installation I couldn't say. Make sure you have got all the fuses though, there are two main banks and some above as well.

:D :D provided there is enough play and the pipes haven't gone too far into the valve 15 mins should be plenty, wipe a smidgen of boss white on new valve seats beforehand , lubricates :D and better chance of seal with old olives, ~I wasn't suggesting you used ballafix valves I was replying to johnb80 :D

If you want to do a bit of belt and braces, when I did a similar job I froze the pipe, cut into it, fitted a 22mm gate valve which I then turned off. I could then let the pipe thaw and take as long to do the job as I wanted. The gate valve from memory was about

sorry thought it was your own house, why dont you buy 3 kits and return one if you don't need the extra gas, problem with best case senario is murphys law. If I were doing it in these circumstances I would grab some rubber bungs from school lab (tiny head of pressure) in case something went wrong as a back up. it was it was :D couldn't agree more - thought it was your own (should have known better :D )

I have sent you a pm

I have to say I would drain down, my only expreience of the freeze method was when I worked in heat & vent - with a company that froze a 5" main At Ibm in portsmouth, the sound of the plug letting go and shooting towards us ( and the

this sounds more and more like broken wires in the loom especially if the other brake lights are now working. No reason you shouldn't have a go yourself others have done it - splice in new wire - either solder and heat shrink or more commonly using a crimp connector. No ideas about the central locking atm if its not a fuse.

Sadly I don't have them. I don't have multimedia either. :rolleyes: (My signature should read - fully loaded, except for rotating seats and multimedia) :46: Edit - done! What car you got then El_dingo

certainly some of the symptoms are consistent with wires broken sometimes making contact and perhaps shorting and possibly blowing a fuse sometimes.

ah that nagging feeling again :rolleyes: may account for a intermittent fault on other lights e,g. fog & reversing as reported by garage - looks likelier than ever he didn't specify REMOTE central locking ........ ? is there a battery in the normal keys ?