NikpV

unless you are very short :angry: it may work better across the other diagonal, move passenger seat as far forward as possible. Will probably gain a few extra inches - less chance of touching tailgate glass :o

Fifth item on the faq page :angry:

The design was changed between mk1 and mkII to make this less of a problem - perhaps they were still using up mkI seats - just changing the headrests in 2000. Having said that our 2001 model has similar problems although they do go up vertical you have to make sure they go past the plastic but they do indent the cushion :angry: . Used to bother me but we only keep one back seat in and just fold it down now.

Glen :angry: :o :D

I'm not driving for a week at 4k revs in my tdi :angry: :o

yes did on ours

is this the procedure you used - does the door led perform at stages 3 and 8 (from the faq)

here you go then

Pulling the rubber boot off the plug reveals the wires. You can then push the boot back into the door so you can check the wires. They should have no kinks in this would indicate a break, run your fingers down each in turn. If you find a break you can splice in a new bit of wire with crimp connectors. Ps Its difficult to hold the rubber boot back and take the photograph :angry: Installation is the reverse of removal. The plug will only go in one way but you have to ensure that the rubber boot does not turn with the sleeve or it becomes twisted.

The sleeve can be removed by depressing the three lugs and sliding it off. It is possible to pull the rubber boot back (without removing the plug at all) but it is very fiddly getting the boot back onto the plug without removing the sleeve.

The plug can then be withdrawn - picture shows the socket and retaining ring, the ring can be rotated if you want to release the socket back ito the pillar. In the b-pillars for the rear doors the socket does not disappear into the hole so if the retaining ring does come off it can be replaced without removing internal trim. For the front doors (A-pillar) the socket may be pushed in too far to replace retaining ring (don't know I haven't tried)

The connection comprises of rubber boot, plug, sleeve, retaining ring and socket. The sleeve with the castellations needs turning about half a turn, the retaining ring should not turn - it holds the socket in the door pillar.

Had to check wires going from rear nearside door into B-pillar so I took some pictures for others. I used pipe pliers to undo the plug but a c-spanner is obviously the correct tool

like the head unit ?

As I said in another thread - the old maf I took out looked identical to the one I put in (should have photographed it) it wiped clean and it would have been impossible to tell if it was a new one or not even smelt the same, I could have sold the old one on ebay (if I was unscrupulous) complete with endcaps and box for

:unsure: ;) did you get a breakdown of charges ?

I'd rather not risk my kiddies fingers by accidentally operating the global closing whilst the remote is in my pocket :rolleyes: :unsure:

safety interlock is operational when shutting windows from inside the car, it is overidden if you try and close them 3 times, from outside the car it is always overidden. ps I am pretty sure you can enable remote global closing using vag-com - hearsay however

like it :rolleyes: :unsure: ;)

the remote shouldn't operate the global closing anyway (safety interlock on windows is disabled) for safety reasons

have to agree with raymac + its a long way to collect

so now you need a picture of the door? really? don't make me do it :D :D

Local Ford dealer are advertising a Air-con service and refill for

Here you go then mumof4 a window motor (random from the web) :D :D :D

Well we do try and help - well some of us This is the second time recently we have had questions about an alarm fitting, there must be a way of definitely identifying whether one has been factory fitted other than the VIN number - any clues anybody Decoding VIN numbers bit old though