MadBaz

I had a pal use it on his shogun, he had to mix oil with ethanol, he stopped using it because of the smell. Don't know of any gals atm running on it. Just check your engine can run on bio/veg cause i believe they can gum up filters, pumps and injectors.

Just one tiny light thats not up to the job. Thats a design feature!!!

Thanks for the replies guys, Looking forward to theory test tomorrow. Got pulled by VOSA this morning on weighbridge at Ainley Top, you should have seen the guys face when I said, "I'm alright driving on a provisional aren't I," HGV provisional that is, the git kept me for an hour.

Well I've had enough.... Fixing flippin pc's has been a bit of a flop, no new customers despite spending loads of dosh on advertising, some t*****r keeps undercutting so I've bailed. I'm keeping my part time job for now delivering the local paper. I've decided to throw what spare cash I've got at some HGV lessons, I enjoy driving and the idea of being my own "gaffer" and possibly a couple of nights away a week is very appealing. I've got my cat 'c' theory on friday morning and my practical booked for 9th April. Thanks for reading, not much of a post but I had to tell someone....

Non that I know of, other than getting door card off with door still closed!!! and then only if it's an electrical fault such as broken wires in door gaiter. I assume you've tried using key in boot/passenger door. Sorry I couldn't help further :angry2:

NO, You need to remove door card and there are 3 bolts on the edge of door (by the latch).

Should've been done at 40k c/w tensioner then at 60k intervals

A major earthquake measuring 5.3 on the Richter Scale hit in the early hours of yesterday morning, with the epicentre in Market Rason - a small village in the middle of nowhere. The earthquake decimated the area causing approximately

Sorry no part number, but The local VW parts dept will probably know what your on about, check this link for piccy, I wouldn't buy from there though, a little over-priced.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Its a complete b*******d trying to give up, missus has just launched hair dryer at me, and it's only been 12 hours.

Hi Prowsey, other than shocks and tyre pressures, only thing I can suggest is the tyres if not reinforced/extra load they can be more supple and give the feeling of driving a Chrysler Voyager!!!

Steve your right its the 3 wire connecter, I forgot about the ground wire..oops, the door lock mech can be bought and fitted seperately from the motor assembly, its a bit fiddly to seperate and reassemble, iirc there is a slide which has to be in correct position when reassembling any probs give us a shout.

Ah - sorry Steve I assumed that with a stiff lock the 'paddle' would be the culprit, have you tried disconnecting the 2 wire multi-plug whilst leaving the main plug connected? it may be that the c/l module won't lock car if it doesn't sense the state of drivers door, when locking from boot or passenger door. A slightly possible cause maybe the door ajar switch. Price from fords for a new lock mechanism is about 41 quid, for the motor unit another 98.

If the key starts to stick in any of the barrels then it's likely the 'paddle' which connects the barrel to the lock mechanism is starting to fail (very small parts made of pig iron) when this happens the contacts in the mechanism can stick, sending a constant close/open signal to the c/l module (a constant open signal activates the global open, very easy to detect). The remedy is a new repair kit from VW (ford will try and sell you a whole barrel which means seperate keys for door and ignition) iirc about 4 quid. very easy to fix once door card is off and has been covered b4 and is in Haynes manual.

On your car the H/W relay is number k164 in the following diagram, its behind the main relay panel:

I've just replaced my fronts with firestone f590's which I believe were original fit, They are symetrical, and give decent grip and handling in all conditions, I did have pirelli citynets on the the front but only got around 15k out of them, they really gripped on dry roads but absolutely useless in the wet, and strangely fantastic in snow, also they were prone to going squishy if given some welly into a corner, I've still got some on the back as they are ok there, I don't think they like been on driven wheels. Our TDCi Connect at work currently has citynets and they behave exactly the same as they did on the Gal, they haven't been on 8 months and are due for renewal, also they don't like a max payload, it's like driving on marshmellows. I thinks Firestones may be replacing them.

Yippe someone in an oilburner getting same mpg as me :lol:

DON'T cross the feeds, you'll end up with more problems than cures.

Brrrrr

NO NO NO, just disconnect the battery for a short while (10 mins should do it)

My problem is.. In order to revise for the theory test I need to have answers for LGV specific questions, such as what colour is the emergency brake line, but the practical training (which will probably answer these) is a five day course ending with the practical test. Fitting the theory somewhere amongst the five days isn't really practical. Does anyone know of any revision/training material specific to LGV's??? ps: The highway code, drivers hours (inc tacho use) I have excellent knowledge of. http://forum.rac.co.uk/images/misc/progress.gif

Highly unlikely, the airbag modules should be built to withstand 'normal' emf interference, you'd have to cook it in a microwave oven to cause any significant damage, NOT RECOMMENDED though :rolleyes:

Give us a shout if you don't get it sorted. You shoudn't need to reinstall XP unless hard drive is u/s, you may need to re-activate XP if you install another MB usually a free phone call to a MS.

Would mods kindly add this piccy to the recent galaxy wiper problem , in the trainee section, Thanks