MadBaz

Cheers guys, was about dinnertime when I remembered, even are lass forgot.

Any connection?? probably not, and that is the problem, broken wiring in the O/S gaiter linking the door and body, about 13 wires in there, has been covered before. However the bootlock has a manual operation not dependant on the Central locking, so methinks something is awry with the lock as well.

Red LED is for deadlock/immobiliser. If you only have red key and black torch key then you don't have remote central locking, BTW leave the red key at home as its used to program additional keys to immobiliser. IIRC if you have alarm look for 'mesh' type patterm on the plastic trim on 'A' pillars. If you want RCL and alrm theres some info opn a post I did a while back, search my username and remote locking.

Broken wire in rubber gaiter possibly, more likely a dodgy wire/earth/switch on B pillar.

At first pic fortune teller tells him "I see your future career. You will make thousands of pussys happy". http://halbot.haluze.sk/images/2004-07/338_future.jpg

I got one of these today, whilst parked in a disabled bay... the traffic waarden came up to me and asked what my disability was....I shouted "TOURETTES...... NOW F*****F you C**T"

Minty, John, Defo looks like an earth issue, on the red connector behind the cluster, get some spare wire and jump the pins 1 & 3 (both brown) wires to a solid earth (outer edge on ciggy lighter will do). you should be able to get a bit of bare cable into the back of the red connector, but please if you do this do it carefully, then test. If it works you need to look at the earth connection "under dash panel drivers side" G9. Let me know how you get on.

Last time I had the ABS light on (not got on mine) was when the battery was flat, the symptoms are indicative of a short somewhere in the car, first place to look is the lead to the cluster, check for fraying etc. Check with a multi meter how much current is being drawn at the battery, 20 mins after turning ign off and closing doors, in the meantime I'll have a looksie at the wiring diagrams and see if I can point you in the right direction, i'm thinking of a dodgy earth somewhere. BTW the cluster is manufactured by Mcgavigans automotive for VW/SEAT/FORD, individual parts may be ordered thru VW.

PMSL, sorry Maz, couldn't help it, been there done that and managed to rag off the window rubber on top of card, a dollop of hot glu sorted it though. Does anyone think I should tell her those clips are about 13p at VW? I'll get me coat...

what year?

Hi Mary, if you have any probs give us a ring, you have a pm.

:D :o :D :16: That needs a health warning, FPMSL, NICE ONE Bleeno.

Well guys and gals I passed the class2 today, didn't deserve to but a pass is a pass Ive done a blog HERE if anyones interested in driving summat that does less to the gallon than a 2.0l petrol Galaxy!

I wouldn't trust Kwik - fit as far as I can throw the Galaxy, went for some new tyres a while back and they tried to flog me non reinforced with wrong load rating, for such a safety critical part, they should know their stuff. BTW I believe the minimum thickness for pads is 7mm inc backing. I've now built a rep with local Motosave, the guys are quite good (not offended if I suggest contrary to their recommendation) and will, for a price, fit parts sourced by myself.

I dare say you've googled this subject, the consensus is that kerosene has no lubrication qualities and adding any additives can cause problems (clogging filters, broken injector pumps) then theres police/vosa roadside checks, if you get pulled and the tank is dipped, anything reddish coming out is gonna cost you. Then theres the manufacturers warranty which no doubt would be voided. Kerosene, whichever grade, has a lower BTU, ie doesn't burn as hot, reducing power. It appears it would be ok in old diesel engines but in a modern car the probable damage would outweigh any saving.

Just got my ins renewal through Tesco, and I'm

I had the drivers door doing that a while back, the only way I could get it open was to pull outer handle rapidly whilst the motor was going through the motions of locking and unlocking (you'll need someone to turn key in passenger door), didn't always work first time though. The remedy was a lock mechanism from VW about

Can't help with driveshaft, What are the readings for emissions? If CO at idle/fast idle is high I'd be looking at the secondary air pump? you should have one, does it work? if not then that affects the emissions and is often overlooked and it's a really easy fix. SEE HERE

I passed (foregone conclusion really) 60/60 for multi choice and 59/75 for theory. :D Absolutely bricking it going for training and practical :lol: soz for late reply, don't get in here now, as often as I would like.

Even cheaper at VW dealer iirc 4.95ea for mine.

Urban myth I'm afraid, iirc it was used in an advert, I don't think it was aired though. Think I saw it on a well known video site, very funny though.

I got my F590's from Motosave

The C/L system has a simple circuit that operates drivers door (DD), tailgate (TG)and petrol flap(PF) motors directly (via c/l module) from drivers door/ tailgate. Any signal from DD/TG should un/lock these three. The signal is then relayed to the Passenger doors (PD). There are three wires that control these signals and are on DD TG and front PD, they are set, reset and ground. If on the DD the set wire is broken then you can only dead/lock the DD via the TG or FPD. This is where it gets confusing LOL, There are wires which control the actions of the motors in every door but if there are any broken in DD then the system is designed to prevent dead-locking all the doors, and even locking. However if a break occurs on deadlock signal wire after closing DD then your stuffed BIG TIME. I guess what I'm trying to say is get the wires in the DD gaiter checked, be aware that they can look ok but the cores maybe broken inside and you may even get intermittent continuity depending on whether door is open/closed. Global close/open (windows opening/closing) works when key is held in un/lock position for a second in any of the locks. No coding/chip/transponder is required to open doors via the lock, only for ign. If only passenger window opened then you defo have broken wires as it should've opened all electric windows simultaneously.

It sounds like you've got same problem as boot, in drivers door, ie broken wires in rubber gaiter or possibly the 3 pin multi plug on lock mechanism isn't connected correctly. PS do you still have the old door locks??? if so you could just swap the key barrels within the handle and hence still use one key for all doors and ign.