MadBaz

What I want to know is why I can get 51/52 mpg on the way to work, but only 40ish on the way back. 16 miles one way.

After a bit of digging through the engine bay, I've found the cause of my a/c leak, The spring loaded coupling between the muffler and the evaporator return pipe has split and it wont rejoin. It appears that this has been repaired several times and with brute force. The flanged end of the evap pipe is now oval. I was wondering if anyone knows of any problems with bodging this, ie cutting off the flanges and using rubber pipe to bridge this. I would be using marine fuel pipe and as it's the low pressure side I don't envisage any problems. I think the bodge would be better than the original as there would be some flexibility.

Just got my first diesel car (02 115ps 102k been fairly well looked after) what are the oil change intervals that people would recommend on a car that now does 350 miles p/w of fairly gentle urban driving. I was thinking every 8k. I take it the bogof at Lidl for 5 litres for

I don't understand! all you need is a multimeter.

I just got mine off ebay complete with alloy spare, for £70, just had another look and theres nowt below £80ish, there is this link: http://www.fordparts...el_carrier_276/ £66 + vat. Edit: That link also gives the same part number for Mk1 and Mk2.

I agree with wot he said^^^, I know of someone recently who passed his Class 2 hgv and the license came back with Class 1 :) , another was to have cat 'D' added, which they did, but they removed cat 'B' as well :wacko: . If your license is very important to you, get a photocopy and get it certified (ie signed by a solicitor/notary/JP) before you send it to DVLA. They will not accept pass certificates, photocopies or any other manner of proof of your entitlements when they cock up!

Okay so you probably didn't miss me (except Familyman), I had huge problems after attempting to change my email addy last year and the board put me into a catch 22/loop. Bit ironic getting back on the forum as my Gal is off to the knackers yard tommorow :D , Mot runs out and the thing is a little worse for wear (not to mention the random brakes) so after 36000 miles in 3 years in my possession and probably as much in

JK, have you got SKY? if so make sure the telephone connection from it is filtered :rolleyes: (common problem), failing that everything from the master socket (wiring/slave sockets) needs to be good quality, get rid of any slaves that have screw type connections for the phone cable, I think the cable is the root of most problems including being routed near EMF heavy devices, readily cured by using Cat5e instead (it's shielded & much better quality).

Nah then where do I start.. I personally thought Clarksons murdering prostitutes joke was a bit near the knuckle, however the rest of the program was fantastic ;). What has pissed a lot of truck drivers off is the fact that the Road Haulage Association has complained to the Director General on their behalf, despite the fact the RHA do not represent any driver just their bosses, the fact that the RHA dinosaur has awoken for this issue, when there are so many more problems within the haulage industry that need addressing, speaks volumes about the validity of their existance.

I don't know anyone thats got glbal close/open with an aftermarket remote kit, as the Gal uses a prolonged signal thru the open/close key barrel circuits, iirc it was removed from OEM remotes too, because of safety aspects. I found the same quirk when car is locked with key. As for the boot release, err sorry don't know, can't make heads or tails of TIS.

The track rods need to be disconnected to get the box out, the tracking should be redone as a matter of course! The steering rack needs dropping too, this is where problems occur, the box may come out without dropping the steering rack but it's a bitch to wiggle it out, and even more of a bitch to get back in.

I have a '96 Gal so the wiring is a bit different but the kit works well and only has remote fobs without keys, works fr me, oh and I sing the praises of the Ebay seller (right click) as I had a problem with a remote, a replacement was sent the following day FOC. Check this link

Secondary air pump???? It's the black thing next to the battery with a pipe going to the manifold, it should work for a minute or two when the engine is cold, if it doesn't check fuse, it's in the aux fusebox above battery, if a fresh fuse blows then the pump is u/s. If the ecu doesn't detect a load on that circuit then it sends screwy signals everywhere else. The pump wasn't installed on later models so the engine can live without it. New pump, in excess of

Not sure if this helps but IIRC fuse 3 is for the parking lamps which are operated by the indicator stalk. Check park lamps work, ign off, ind up/down, side lights on.

My first forum too, it's been a great help and even saved me a few quid as well, don't get in as often as I like (too busy being a trucker ;) ;) :lol: ) but I'm glad it's still here along with fresh faces and the old fuddies too :rolleyes: .

Forget the above post by me, its a bit simpler than I thought.... Remove the vent above the switch Look into the hole You need to remove the multi plug on the right (brown and yellow/black wires) there are tabs top and bottom. Then there are tabs on the level switch (unit removed for clarity) squeeze and pull (oo err matron) Et Voila Numbers on mine are: 3AO 941 333A - 04 0507 61 or PA6 GF GB 30 Hope that helps Brian

The switch unit can be disassembled, getting the unit out of the dash is a bitch, best approached from fuse box below and the vent above, disconnect multi-plugs (3 iirc) then there is a slidy type thingy which releases the fascia. (or you can just prize the fascia out from the steering wheel side by sticking a chisel under it bit risky though) once out you can split the unit into separate parts (level adj, dimmer and switch) but it is a bit fiddly, cheaper than a full unit I guess, and you'd still have to get the unit out

If there was a bit of rust then why didn't the techy wire brush it off???? after all it's not like it's summat you can remedy after the new glass is fitted is it? Same as having tyres fitted and the rim not been wire brushed beforehand.....

It depends on the type of wheel, Galaxy bolts are the same part number for oem steel and alloy wheels. Maybe worth getting some A4/A6 bolts to suit the wheels!

Where did this thread come from??????? must have been asleep:) A quick call to Microsoft sorts out any validation issues, even on OEM installs, when migrating to new hardware, in XP that is, now Vista is a completley different kettle o fish. I got my main PC wired to my 42" LCD via DVI-HDMI, sound is through dolby surround system. Streamers are fine if you like the simplicity, but I like a complicated life and get grumpy when things are working fine.

Yep, I agree with Tiny, BTW mine passed its MOT, after changing a lower ball joint, Bulb in place of secondary Air Pump is still doing it's job.

STOP RIGHT THERE

Sorry chaps your quite right, I understood the post '97 B license to restrict trailers to <750kg.

Stevie, I assume you passed your test before 1997, otherwise you can't pull a trailer heavier than 750kg! Nice van BTW, just hope I'm not in the Q behind you :lol: ;)