MadBaz

I finally got around to replacing outer cv joints and wheel bearings (post with pics to follow) but as usual I've bitten off more than I can chew, anyone have any ideas on how to get the race out of the hub carrier, it's resisted pullers, blowtorch, chisel, hacksaw, a gallon of wd40, broke my reciprocating saw and my favourite lump hammer can't shift it :16: , as I don't have access to induction heating anymore, it's going on the barbie tomorrow whilst I nip down to B&Q for a Dremel, or maybe a jackhammer :P .

I saw some today on a shogun, they looked ok, even with windows down.

should be underneath just in front of petroll tank mounted in a plastic cage, two bolt/nuts iirc to remove, be prpared to clamp the hose from tank and there will be spillage.

Just to add my two penneth worth, removing the under tray could allow dust & dirt ingress into the bellhousing compromising those not so robust clutch slave cylinders, extremly expensive and a pain to replace.

Anyone seen the forecast for the next few days!!! No need for a hosepipe ban just yet, dinghys should be readied.

Having just read through a few posts it's apparent that the tone of this forum is degenerating into a playground scrap. I for one don't like it and I'm sure I'm not the only member that doesn't, but before you all shout p****ff, just remember that a lot of peeps come on here looking for help and in turn a few of them do like to give a bit back, without them this forum would be dead and buried. LETS NOT PUT THEM OFF. I know peeps have strong views on varoius issues, myself included. I also know it's not a utopia on here, but lets try and keep a reasonable tone and not directly attack each other. This post is not an excuse for others to start having a go, otherwise I'll set the mother in law on ya, and She's bigger than all your mother in laws put together!!! Seriously though, I think I have a relevant point, and look forward to speaking to you all soon.

Hi Gierna and welcome, The central locking has 3 masters Front doors and boot, and 3 slaves rear doors and fuel cap. Problems arise when the barrels of the front doors break, a paddle shaped bit of metal that interfaces with the lock mechanism, Broken wiring in the gaiter of the drivers door and boot, it can happen with the passenger door but because its typically not used as much as the drivers this is rare, although I'm sure someone will correct me! Check the fuse, iirc its no30 it should be ABOVE the relays to the left of the fuse box. If the module has had a bath you could take it out and stick it on a radiator overnight, not tried this, but it works with my mobile phone when her indoors doesn't check my pockets :angry: Does the door led come on continuously for about 3 seconds as you start the car but doesn't flash at any other time? As for the window I suspect the wiring in the gaiter (given the probs with c/l) you could disconnect the mutlplug for about 30 seconds when the window is fully closed and see if that resets the motor, Autoglass taught me that, handy when a windows starts to become sluggish. not much use though if wiring broken ;) Oh and welcome to the madhouse.

Heres a post I did a while ago, read the full post though cos I amended it later on, should be relevant for wiring. Have fun

Main loom is on drivers side. I've just repaired mine by cutting out about 1/2 metre of old loom and chock blocking using a couple of lengths of trailer multi core (

Regular use of Head and Shoulders and conditioner and the comb seems to keep them at bay, after a bad outbreak don't forget to wash bedding. Had probs with my ex not keeping up to daughters hair, not very nice when you and others can see the buggers from a distance in supermarket. After I'd combed out over 150, I gave them to ex in an envelope and said "take these to chemist and get yourself 150 bottles of lotion!" She seems to have got the message, scruffy cow. Just need her to do something about occasional flea bites on kids now. SS and the courts believe my kids are well looked after too :(

I left the os engine mount loose but not disconnected and lowered box and engine as far as i dared and box fell off very gently (not). just wiggle!! Getting the bloody thing back on is even more fun.

I had this prob just after I got mine, was the slave cylinder, tell tale sign is fluid leaking from the bell housing. Another symptom was if you try bleeding the clutch little or no fluid can be bled, however you get a nice puddle under the car a short while later. may be worth changing the clutch plate at the same time as the slave, cos there is hell of a lot of work involved and it may be contaminated, my Gals previous owner changed the plate but not the slave. HAVE FUN. ps: got my bits from HERE, the VW 2.0 ltr petrol parts are the same as the Ford. pps: welcome to the madhouse B)

Mikej only voiced what we were all thinking :lol: PS: If Skoda did an full size mpv i'd be first in the queue

uh oh mrs madbaz is getting ideas

Oh I forgot to mention thats in my 3.5 tdi LDV van, you didn't seriously think I meant in a Gal did you? :lol: :lol:

This week I've done 422 miles on 33 litres and I think thats really good going :lol:

Extra load and reinforced are the same thing

you'll need a new driveshaft bolt and a circlip (assuming its a similar setup to the mk1) gear box will need topping up be careful you don't nick the driveshaft seals on the gearbox when removing/re installing. Lower ball joints can be an absolute b*****d to remove, soak em in wd40 the night before. Skinned knuckles are compulsory Have fun :D

check this link

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The MOD must sort out this lumpy jumper problem :lol:

I agree with JKspoff, Vista is nice but before you go and upgrade check this link, When upgrading to Vista there is no going back from an unsuccessful install, BACKUP YOUR DATA before you do, I've had a lot of work recently recovering peeps data from failed installs (ultimate discs sold on ebay usually). also if you go for the Vista ultimate it will not let you use non MS certified drivers, so that old scanner or printer will not work. As for problems with Vista, there are many but the average user shouldn't notice them, just keep them auto updates turned on cos there'll be plenty more!!! ps: don't be tempted by those 'cracked' copies of Vista on the peer to peer networks or Ebay cos you'll find you'll end up paying later as many XP users have.

take out instrument panel, and you'll see several grey bulb holders, the big ones contain push fit bulbs (available at your local auto shop) for tacho and speedo, the small ones (bulb and holder as one unit)I can only get from a dealer. all are removed by turning 1/4 turn with needle nose pliers ,be careful though the grey holders will be brittle.

iirc you have to compress the spring and the retainer slides out. You can get replacement bits for the barrels at a vw dealer, ford will try and sell you a barrel set. Just be careful with the tumblers if they fall out it'll be so much fun trying to get them back in their correct positions!!

They're supposed to be a snug fit but a tiny bit o' play should be acceptable