insanitybeard

Servo issues don't usually cause binding brakes, are ALL wheels definitely binding when the fault occurs? Servo faults are usually due to vacuum loss resulting in a loss of braking assistance, not binding!

My mistake......! :5: Good breakdown diagram Chris. Does that box have a torque converter? Call me stupid but I can't see it on the diagrams.

Bear in mind the autobox in the Mk2 TDI is VW tech!

There's a good chance the faults are related, take a look at this. The rear washer pipe can separate at a joint and flood the well under the passenger front seat which can ruin the parking sensor control module.

Another thing to bear in mind- I'm not sure if the unit injectors may have to be removed in order to skim the head, if they do, care will be required to set them back up correctly a) so that they seal properly, especially with all of the o-rings fitted to them for low pressure fuel supply, and 2) so that they are orientated correctly- though I'm not quite sure how you are supposed to be able to set them in position with accuracy to tenths of a millimetre as per the procedure in Ford's technical data! To be honest, I'd be impressed if you could get all that work done by somebody else including parts for

Forget my last remark- you already stated the vehicle age! D'oh.

A specialist should be able to tell you if the head can be skimmed safely (if it is warped) without affecting anything, some heads (for particular engines) can't be skimmed (to my knowledge) because the clearances between pistons and valves are so tight removing material from the head would reduce the clearances to a dangerous level.

All the extra 'D' stands for is 'Direct' injection, TDI being 'Turbo Diesel Injection', the 'Direct' is just the injection style, i.e, directly into the combustion chamber. If it helps, my 2004 1.9 TDI is listed as a TDDI on the registration document, what age is your Galaxy?

Ford's own original oil (possibly Formula E) was a 5/30 semi synthetic, which would have been in use when the Mk2 (and Mk1 obviously) petrol Galaxy was in production, so as long as whatever oil you get meets Ford's specs it shouldn't matter if it's semi or fully synthetic. Ford have since upgraded their 5/30 oil to Formula F I believe which is fully synthetic, but this has happened since the 2.3 petrol engine ceased manufacture.

If such a thing exists, it's not a kit you can get from Ford, it'll be a new master cylinder I expect if it's the seals in it that have failed. If you unbolt the master cylinder from the servo take a look and see if you can see any fluid leakage from the inside of the cylinder into the servo housing.

I can't tell you what the codes mean but if the led is flashing in the door it sounds like it could be an immobiliser issue, if the immobiliser works by disabling the fuel pump this may give you fuel system fault codes.

If it's head gasket failure, the gas in the combustion chamber (cylinders) which is under pressure as it is compressed by the piston as it moves upwards on the compression stroke seeps past the head gasket and into the coolant passageways of the engine (which also run through the head gasket into the cylinder head), thereby adding extra pressure to the coolant system.

My money would be on relay 30, to be honest the relay is one of the cheapest and easiest fixes for the problems you are describing!

Is it a petrol or diesel model? If you are hearing a ticking sound like you hear whilst indicating and the interior light is going on off in time with the ticking that sounds very much like a relay powering up and down in which case it could be the old relay 30 problem (if it's a petrol), though it'll need somebody else to confirm if relay 30 also applies to a mk1 Galaxy, I think it does.

This article should help, you'll need to register to see the pics though (if you're not already a member).

Where the inner CV joint bolts to intermediate driveshaft on the offside, the intermediate shaft runs along the back of the engine block to the gearbox. The intermediate bearing bolts to the back of the engine block just inside of the offside inner CV joint.

So it was definitely a new driveshaft intermediate bearing as well? (the one that bolts to the back of the engine block on the offside)

As my (edited) above post, was it just the outer driveshafts with the CV joints on that you renewed or did you change the intermediate shaft on the offside? The intermediate shaft has a bearing which can fail.

Have you actually renewed the anti roll bar bushes though? If they're a little worn they may not be bad enough to detect movement when inspecting but bad enough to allow the anti roll bar to move/ rattle over bumps etc. Or what about the suspension top mounts/ bearings? Are the brake discs/pads in good condition, any major ridge or rust/grooving on the discs? Was the intermediate bearing renewed on the offside drive shaft when you changed the driveshafts, because if that fails that can cause issues like you describe?

Anti-roll bar bushes or lower arm bushes? Engine roll restrictor?

I don't know enough about the AG4/5 'boxes to be much help but it makes sense that if a solenoid within the gearbox that regulates the ATF pressure to the various control solenoids/actuators for the gears isn't working properly it could well result in a harsh change if there's excess pressure fluid pressure. Some of the solenoids are probably accessible from the outside of the box but for diagnosis and repair you need a specialist I'm afraid, unless you really know what you're doing or it's a minor fault auto boxes don't lend themselves to home repair! Even if it is a simple solenoid fault you still need to know which solenoids control what!

The specified cambelt change interval for the TDI changed from 40,000 miles to 60,000 miles in about 2003 so depending on build date yours could be either. If it hasn't been done then yes, it definitely needs changing! If it fails in service you could be looking at major engine damage. The water pump is driven by the cambelt, I would recommend renewing it whilst you're in there, if you don't change it and it subsequently fails then you'll have to renew the belt again (and effectively do the whole job again). Cost wise, well, I changed mine myself backalong, a top quality kit with tensioner and idler was about

The cable adjustment they are referring to is for the manual boxes where the cables directly operate the gear selectors, it's not the same with an auto box, there is a cable of sorts but most of the actuation in the auto box is done via solenoids and hydraulics. There is a separate control module for the automatic transmission, are you able to check to see if it has stored any fault codes?

Having just looked at my Galaxy, with the rear door open you can certainly see all but one of the driver's door latch retaining bolts, crucially you can also see the bolt that holds the lock cylinder & surround in place and also an access hole that lets you see/ remove a retaining bolt for the linkage rods that operate the driver's door latch from the handle. I'm not sure if you'll be able to access it that well without removing the rear door, and if the latch is jammed in deadlock position it may not help anyway but it's worth a look......

As Brian said above, your problem is that trying to get the door card off with the door shut and the driver's seat still installed is going to be a nightmare, you'll have very little room to work plus the dash itself is going to get in the way, if you can get the door card off at all with the door shut I'm sure it'll involve being brutal with it. Not an easy solution unfortunately, unless you can open up access to any of the latch retaining screws on the drivers door by either opening the driver's side rear door or even taking said door off, which is an option if the other door locks are still working. I take it the inside handle on the driver's door isn't doing anything either?