insanitybeard

Hm, well in that case as Sparky Paul said maybe the excess oil has caused the severe misfiring and fouled up the plugs but how bad was the problem before that resulted in you calling out the AA in the first place? For an AA technician to overfill the oil by 2 litres is a pretty poor show, he should know better than that!

Was there any smoke before the oil was overfilled? To be honest it would have to have been MAJORLY overfilled to enter the combustion chamber and cause smoke out of the exhaust, if it was running badly before it was overfilled with oil it sounds like a base engine fault- low compression caused by wear or component failure- eg, pistons/ rings/ valves, resulting in poor running and oil burning/ loss. Has the engine done a lot of miles? Is the smoke dark or white in colour (is it burnt oil or unburned fuel)?

Why did the AA have to top up the oil? Was there another fault that you had to call them out for or was it related to the poor running?

It's purpose is to speed up the warm up time of the vehicle- it is a fuel fired additional coolant heater basically, without it it is purely the heat from the combustion in the engine which warms up the coolant, but being a diesel engine, this can take a long time, especially in cold weather- which means that the cabin takes a long time to warm up (the heater will not blow hot air until the coolant is up to temperature) and the engine also takes longer to reach operating temperature- and is therefore less fuel efficient and maybe more prone to wear. The booster heater reduces warm up time in cold weather and allows the engine and heaters/cabin to warm up more quickly!

Which spring are you referring to? Do you mean the spring that sits on the throttle body linkage that pulls the butterfly shut when no throttle is being applied?

Might be worth checking to see if the accelerator cable is sticking as well. If you can disconnect it from the throttle body, check the cable is able to move freely (get somebody to operate the pedal as you do this) and then operate the throttle manually, see if the butterfly is returning to it's fully closed position as it should be.

No, each sensor has a multiplug connector so the sensor is completely independent of any wiring.

Is there any possibility the butterfly in the throttle body is sticking? Or a dodgy throttle position sensor?

More info needed- where is this box on the car (front, rear, middle, passenger or driver's side) and what does it look like? Is it a metal, plastic or rubber pipe that goes into it? Does the pipe just carry air, coolant or fuel etc, and is it a large or small bore pipe?

The door (at least on mine) has 2 drain holes, one at the front and the other at the rear of the door, right at the bottom on the inside, just underneath the lowest horizontal/ flat weatherseal strip at the base of the door (not the main weatherseal around the door opening).

Is it possible the drain holes in the door are blocked allowing water to leak into the car when it builds up inside the door cavity?!

I don't think any of the Mk1 Galaxies (in the UK at least) were fitted with the PD engine, though I stand to be corrected. Looking at the rocker cover on top of the engine, the PD's is much broader than the earlier TDI because it also houses the injector camshafts and unit injectors. The earlier engine has a narrower rocker cover (pressed steel? instead of the PD's plastic- ABS or polycarbonate one) and externally fitted injectors, with each one being fed by a thin (metal) high pressure fuel pipe which goes back to the high pressure fuel pump which mounts on the front left hand side of the engine as you look in the engine bay. The PD engine has none of this.

See here: http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-mk1-mk2-tdi-version-relay-109/

The TDI fuel supply is pumped by the camshaft driven tandem pump (i.e, mechanically not electrically, therefore no fuel pump relay), as I understand it the sender in the fuel tank only serves to provide a fuel tank level- it does not pump the fuel so you may not be looking at an electrical problem, possibly a blocked fuel line/filter or defective mechanical pump if no diesel is making it to the injectors, unless an immobiliser problem is causing the issue.

Do you get any lights on the instrument cluster when you try to start? The petrol models have a fairly common problem with a relay in the fusebox which packs up, I can't remember the number of it, somebody else here should be able to chime in with that info.

Sounds like a leaking/split/disconnected intercooler pipe, if it's at the rear of the engine it could be where the large rubber intercooler hose connects into the EGR valve, alternatively it could be the intercooler pipe coming out of the turbo lower down on the drivers side.

That doesn't bode well for me then........ my '54 plate has a D5Z-F which seems to be rather intermittent in operation and the two fault codes stored... glow plug open circuit and glow plug short circuit, I was hoping the usual replacement glow plug might sort it but it might be the electronics inside the unit from what you have found..... bugger! :rolleyes:

It's made a bit more tricky on the TDI's as they use the double sided polyvee belt, so it's not even like you can look at the smooth side of the belt to see if there are any lengths/ part numbers stamped on it!

I would say there's no way a belt of the type used (multirib polyvee belt) would stretch 25mm without breaking, the cords in them won't give that much before they snap! Sounds like you have an incorrect belt to be honest, maybe worth getting one from a different source? The one I got from GSF was about 23 quid recently and was spot on.

Well, put it this way..... if the engine has a different power output it could be down to several things...... different turbochargers, different injectors, different camshaft etc etc, but I would be very surprised if the engine management setup was exactly the same for engines of different power outputs. I stand to be corrected because I do not know for sure regarding the PD engines in particular, but for the reason above I would be surprised if the engine management was the same for all power output variations!

I'm not sure on this but if you are fitting an engine of a different code and power output, there's a very good chance the engine management will be different or at least calibrated differently- does the seller have the ecu and possibly wiring to go with the engine? If not I doubt it will be as simple as 'plug and play'.

What you need are XZN (triple square) sockets- common sizes will be 6,8,10,12 and 14mm. I'm sure you can get them from a number of sources, the set I've ordered is made by Beta.

The engine does rotate clockwise viewed from the crank pulley end, if you still haven't resolved this I can email you a picture of the tensioner area on my '54 plate 130PS TDI (would try to post a picture but I presume I won't be able to)- just send me a pm with your email address)

I'd try to post a picture but not sure if it's working on the site! I'll try to describe- From the crankshaft pulley it passes under the tensioner wheel, around the alternator pulley, round the reverse side (the rear facing side) of the A/C compressor pulley, around the power steering pump pulley and back to the crank pulley.

Pretty much, just don't leave the pipes disconnected for too long to prevent moisture ingress into the system. If you can, try to ensure that the engineering numbers of any replacement unit you get match those on the builders' plate of the old unit to make sure you're getting the right part. Might also be worth renewing the o-rings where the pipes connect to the compressor too.