insanitybeard

I believe (and stand to be corrected) that the 2.3 petrol has a separate relay for the fuel pump other than relay 30.

Is the broken drill bit now stopping the camshaft from rotating? I would say that the locking pin must pass through the camshaft sprocket and hub before engaging in a locating hole in the cylinder head. The camshaft sprocket is easy enough to remove by unscrewing the 3 x 13mm bolts surrounding the larger (18mm?) centre bolt- NOT the centre bolt itself. With the sprocket removed, can you then get a grip on the remaining stub of drill bit? If not you may need to remove the camshaft hub which looking at this parts diagram is a tapered fit on the camshaft and should be removable once the large bolt in the centre of the camshaft is removed, though it looks like the hub is keyed and tapered to the shaft so it'll likely be a tight fit. With the hub removed hopefully you will then be able to pull the remaining stub of drill bit out. I wouldn't bother trying to drill out a broken drill bit, especially in situ, the metal it's made of will be too hard and you will never be able to accurately drill it without enlarging the surrounding hole or damaging something else.

If the electromagnetic clutch is defective it is listed as a separate part to the compressor, no idea on cost though. They can and do fail, but bear in mind if there is very little gas in the system then the system shouldn't work and the clutch shouldn't energise, you'll have to regas it to test it properly.

Can you turn the compressor over by hand (obviously with the engine off!)? If not then it may be seized (not an unknown problem) and trying to energise the clutch on a seized compressor could well have resulted in it being overloaded. If there is no gas in the system then the clutch won't engage and the system shouldn't work to prevent damage.

I think you'll find the the pipe that comes out of the canister does separate- I take it you're referring to the pipe which after coming out of that canister (expansion valve) heads towards the rear of the vehicle along the chassis leg & is partly hidden by the front panel? If you look on that pipe about 6 inches from that canister then there should be a 'bulge' or flange in that pipe, that is infact a joint which requires a special tool to separate.

If the compressor has seized then even with gas in the system, it won't work so they may not be lying to you. Firstly you need to check if the compressor clutch is switching the compressor in, if you can locate the compressor on the front of the engine (near the bottom I believe) you'll see the pulley has a circular plate on the side which is able to rotate separately to the main pulley which is driven from the alternator belt, when the compressor is not running this plate will remain static (the engine must be running for you to see this) whilst the pulley spins, then when the aircon is switched on the clutch should engage (click in- it's electromagnetic), when this happens the plate on the side should rotate with the main pulley. First thing to do is make sure this is happening when you switch the air con on.

There is no need to remove the battery in order to remove the headlamp.

To be honest I don't think I'd even trust it to do that, does said DIY kit tell you how much gas is presently in the system or how much it's metered out? If not it's next to useless.

In short, no. It's not a DIY job, end of. You require access to R234 refrigerant gas and specialist equipment in order to leak test and gas/degas the system, you also need to ensure you fill the correct quantity of gas and oil.

Not so bad on the rear as the springs are mounted independently of the damper, so you just need to drop the trailing arms with a jack, but the front struts will need removal from the vehicle, this can be tricky as potentially the knuckle to strut bolt can be tough to shift due to corrosion, equally the top mounts gather water which doesn't drain and therefore causes the top locknut to corrode onto the thread making it a pig to remove, the access isn't fantastic either. If you do get the struts out ok you will then need spring compressors in order to safely remove the spring from the strut and to fit the new ones.

It's possible they've retained the original struts and just dropped it considerably using lowering springs, if this is the case then it's likely the position of the anti roll bar moved so much with the standard length drop links it was removed to stop it fouling anything, or it was no longer possible to line up the drop links with the mounting hole in the strut!

That age and spec of Galaxy should certainly have had an anti roll bar from the factory, infact regardless of spec it should be fitted. Is there any evidence when looking at the mounting holes on the struts or subframe of there ever having been anything there? Do the springs and struts appear to be more recent fitments or appear non standard?

As Greg says, it's as the first picture, this way it's more secure when stowed, also, if you did try to install it the other way round the nylon retainer MAY bottom out in the winder unit before the wheel is located.

Do you mean like this? This is off a slightly later Seat TDI 2 litre so you'd have to check that the engineering numbers match your old one (they've posted a pic of the label with the engineering numbers on it to help) and actually when I look a bit more closely, I think the Galaxy/ earlier models have a different style of pipe joint (push fit instead of a bolt flange like this one) at the expansion valve end so possibly it's slightly different. Failing that there's always lots of TDI's breaking on ebay, I'm sure one of them at least will be the same spec as yours, what age is your Galaxy?

That's rubbish, the Mk2 TDI is using a VW powerplant & VW gearbox (if it's a manual), consequently it'll have the same engine management and wiring as a similar age VW Sharan with the same engine setup. The Mk2 in TDI or V6 Form has very little Ford anything in it, it's primarily VW tech, only the 2.3 petrol engine (and maybe 2.0 petrol if they ever sold Mk2 2 litre petrols in this country- not sure that they did) was a Ford unit and therefore had Ford engine management and gearbox (in manual form).

In theory putting the vehicle in gear should do it, but only if the nearside wheel is prevented from rotating (i.e, on the ground) as you tighten the bolt for the offside stub shaft.

Are you absolutely positive the planetary gearset in the diff is not spinning when you turn the bolt? It may not be the complete diff rotating. As well as I can tell from the parts diagram the bolt threads directly into the sun wheels, or at least a captive nut attached to them- see this (number 19 possibly).

Ok, I didn't read your original post properly. So you never took the stub shaft out of the box? It looks like that retaining bolt actually threads into the differential so if it's just spinning then it's probably just rotating with the diff. Try putting the vehicle in gear (with the nearside wheel on the ground so it can't rotate) to stop the diff spinning and try again. You'll still need to apply force to overcome the spring pressure.

As I understand it, that stub shaft is under spring tension from within the gearbox so when refitting the bolt you need to apply A LOT (ie, lever it in against something) of inward force on the stub shaft to get the thread of the bolt to catch, without doing this the thread is probably just spinning in air as you try to do it back up.

You can do to stop the valve from operating but if the flow of exhaust gas is blocked it shouldn't really matter.

I just got a replacement 16 inch refurbished alloy from px wheels for my Galaxy (the old one was cracked- a previous 'repairer' had tried to straighten a buckle with a big hammer, and needless to say, cracked the wheel but refitted it to the car anyway), I have to say the powder coat paint finish they used is very impressive, and much more durable than the original machined/ lacquered finish which flakes and looks horrible with age. They sell complete sets of exchange wheels for the Galaxy- see here, but that depends on whether they have the same style as your wheels listed as you have to exchange like for like- and serious damage of your old wheels may make them ineligible for exchange, you'd have to check. They also offer repairs and refurbishment of your existing wheels. If you don't want to keep your existing rim size/ style you could get a secondhand set of tatty but sound original Ford fitment 16" rims and get them refurbished, costs about

If it's just the pipe from the turbo/ exhaust into the cooler itself it is available as a separate part (assuming you can be bothered to change it instead of just blanking the EGR off) - item 6 on this parts diagram- don't trust the part number it gives if you do go to order it though!

Just bear in mind that 'officially', effectively disabling the EGR system on a vehicle fitted with it from new is an offence, in practice, unless it raises the emissions substantially so that it doesn't pass the MOT test, it shouldn't cause any issue.

I don't understand what you mean about the bolts, I would expect the subframe or rack bolts to be the same both sides. but I maintain that something has either been damaged or incorrectly reassembled, e.g, power steering pipes kinked or reversed, if you say the subframe and wheel alignment is correct. Also, I see you have a mk3 model, so this topic is in the wrong section.

Easiest way in that case may well be to replace the gasket on the turbo side of the cooler with a solid disc made from a sheet of thin metal (possibly not aluminium though as it might not be able to withstand the temperature) - just drill a couple holes for the bolts- to stop exhaust gases entering the cooler.