insanitybeard

What's leaking? Is it coolant into the cooler or Exhaust gas from the cooler? Not just one of the gaskets not sealing properly?

It may require accessing the alarm module, the manufacturers plate may well state the model type, alternatively interrogation with VAG-com might bring up the specs of the module. Failing that, there's a chance if you went into Ford parts and got them to look up the applicable module for your car it MAY say in the description which model it is. Unfortunately I cannot tell you where the module is physically located on the MK2 Galaxy.

I would say it shouldn't be a problem as long as by bypassing the coolant flow through the cooler it doesn't prevent coolant flow to anything else on that coolant circuit. It may also affect emissions slightly as the exhaust gases passing back into the intake will theoretically be hotter.

Could be damaged/ shorted/ broken wiring in the door wiring loom where it passes from the body into the door in the rubber gaiter, the constant flexing of the loom over time chafes the insulation leading to short circuits or just breaks the cables- check for damage. It's a common issue on these cars, especially older ones.

If it wasn't like it before they've obviously disturbed and changed something, either the suspension geometry has been altered because they've not put something back correctly, they've damaged something or they've done something like crimp a rubber power steering hose which means the power steering isn't working as it should. Is the steering wheel centred when driving on straight roads?

If you're very lucky it may not have been quite as catastrophic as it would have been had the timing belt snapped, and the timing may have just drifted off when the tensioner went without the valves smashing into the pistons- you could try replacing the damaged tensioner and sprocket etc before stripping the head, time it up and turn it over manually- take the rocker cover off and inspect the camshaft for damage, if it turns over manually ok with no contact you could try starting it up, might save you some work.

Does Seat have a different method for clamping the tensioner? Normally (and on my Ford TDI) the tensioner and idler are fitted over studs threaded into the engine block, not bolts, and the tensioner is clamped in position by a nut threaded onto the stud, the timing belt kits I've seen (and the one I fitted) only come with the locknuts, so the studs are not generally items that get changed with the timing belt. As for head removal, the turbo and exhaust manifold are best accessed and disconnected from underneath, whilst removing the scuttle at the rear of the engine bay will open up access to the inlet manifold and EGR valve etc from up top. Also, before you go dismantling the head is it worth trying a leakdown or compression test to check the extent of the damage? Is it at all possible that the timing just got thrown out when the belt tension went and there wasn't any physical contact between pistons and valves?

I'm not very well up on the Mk1 Galaxy but from what you describe I would say it's got a chance of being item number 8 on this parts diagram, this is leaving the drier unit and turning through 90 degrees, don't trust the part numbers on the diagram though as, as you can see there are several different part numbers for the same item which are applicable to different model specs- petrol, diesel etc. It may give you a starting point anyway.

Interesting, that makes it a little harder to diagnose then. Normally, if it selects fine with the engine off then I'd be thinking clutch issues, but if that were the case I'd expect you to have difficulties with selecting other gears with the engine running as well, not just 6th. If you put it into 6th with the engine off and start the engine with the clutch in, does it go back into neutral from 6th ok?

Is it equally difficult to get into 6th with the engine not running? If yes, then it's likely a selector issue- either cables, selector mechanism unit on top of the gearbox or internal gearbox issue.

Unfortunately I don't think you can get it as a spare part from Ford, if it was available I would have expected to have seen it either on the wiper linkage parts diagram I linked earlier in the thread or this one here, unfortunately I would say it must only come with complete with the lower windscreen cowl, unless VW list it as a separate part, which is possible, being mostly VW tech there's a good chance the spares availability from VW is better. So is the swivel plate on the linkage moving excessively due to spindle wear, spindle carrier wear or is the plate itself loose on the spindle?

Does it say 'MANN FILTER' in the little box above the price on the GSF website? If so then that's the Mann manufacturer Seatkid was talking about. I've bought stuff from GSF and haven't had any issues, the nice thing is they quite often have price options depending on the quality of part you want.

They do yes, though a lever bar may be a better bet, they can take a fair amount of effort to free, and it's quite easy to mark/ distort the plastic bushes in the rods whilst levering them off- be careful what you are levering against!

No problem, from what I've seen though there are a few different styles/ shapes of the linkage plate you speak of, so you may need to be careful if you try to source another one that it isn't subtly different. In all honesty though, that plate isn't the first place I'd be looking to locate the fault, I think it's more likely to be a worn plastic bush on the linkage rods or even a loose fastener somewhere, or a linkage that isn't set up quite right. I do have some pictures but I'd have to email them as I can't upload them here.

You should be able to get them from Ford if they're not discontinued, don't rely on the part numbers given in the link I posted though. And I've no idea of price. The linkage plate you mention, at least on my linkage is riveted to the spindle it rotates with and is not detachable (normally!) from the spindle, the spindle itself runs in a cast support tube which bolts to the same pressed steel plate the motor bolts to, and is retained by a 'C' clip in the same way the wiper spindles are. There is also an 'O' ring to prevent water ingress. If your linkage is worn however, you should be able to feel rotational slop in the linkage if you lift the wiper arm from the screen slightly (whilst the wipers are off obviously!) and try to rock it back and forth manually.

Was it a problem you ever noticed before the overhaul? If not then something must have been altered. Is the rubber block mounted on a 'flap' on the tube that links the two wiper arm spindle carriers together in the vicinity of the pressed steel plate that the motor mounts to? On my linkage, the rubber block I think you mean is sat next to the Bosch manufacturers label (with the unit part number) which itself is stuck to the aforementioned pressed steel plate. I believe this block only serves to stop the linkage vibrating against the chassis/ bulkhead when fitted. Whether you can still buy them I don't know (they may be obsolete from Ford, probably not VW) but this parts diagram shows the linkage rods (which house the nylon bushes which I assume are the most likely item to wear in the linkage) available as separate parts.

It's a tricky one, if you had time to play with you could possibly save the knuckle by a combination of penetrating oil followed by alternate heating and cooling (with freeze spray) to try to free up the seized bolt remains, weld another nut on and try to free it slowly, move it a little then wind it back in, more oil, heat etc, move it a bit more etc. If you can't be doing with this then yes, either remove the knuckle and pillar drill out the remains- you've still got to free the strut first to do this though!- if the strut is scrap you could just cut through it above the knuckle (but be cautious- I'm not sure if the damping fluid is under pressure!), or alternatively, find a good secondhand knuckle- if it's coming complete with hub though, make sure the wheel bearing isn't knackered before you stick it all back together!

When you fitted the replacement motor, did you refit the linkage drive arm that connects to the motor spindle in EXACTLY the same place? If the motor wasn't in park position when you fitted it, or the linkage rods moved even slightly when you did this, it could have altered the positioning. I'm assuming the wipers look like they're positioned in the right place and spaced correctly in park position and it's not just a case of moving the wiper arm back a spline on the spindle?

The problem is that the strut to knuckle bolt locates in a recess in the strut tube, so until the bolt is out you won't be able to remove the knuckle from the strut. Has the bolt now sheared, or is it still in there locked solid?

If the ball is locating in a white plastic block then there's a good chance that a couple of plastic lugs on the block need to be gently eased outwards to release the ball on the servo rod. As always, the problem is you're working semi blind in the pedal box area so it's hard to see properly! Have you got a small mirror you can use to get a better view into where you're working?

If you can get a substitute pipe readily and cheaply enough then it's probably worth trying that first, simply because it's much easier and cheaper to change than the servo! From the symptoms you describe though, I'd be surprised if the pipe is at fault.

It's a strange one, servo faults usually tend to be the reverse of what you describe- a hard pedal due to loss of vacuum and lack of braking assistance. As a test, my suggestion would be to try to reproduce the fault whilst static, and then pull the vacuum pipe off of the servo with the engine still running (be VERY careful as you do this not to get tangled or burned!), either at the servo or vacuum pump end- you will need to plug the pipe or vacuum pump connection (depending on which end you disconnect) quickly as you do this, and then see A) If the engine runs better as a result and B ) If the brakes then free up and stop binding, which will involve getting some wheels off of the ground, though be warned if you do this with the ignition still on it's likely to put the ABS warning lamp on. Obviously with the vacuum supply disconnected then the brake pedal will go hard and not feel normal but it may help diagnose the fault.

As Gregers says, if the vehicle obviously has airbags fitted (and lets be honest, airbags are always plainly 'labelled' inside the vehicle) then the system will have a warning lamp which should illuminate when you switch on the ignition and then go out after a few seconds if there are no faults present. By covering or removing the warning lamp so it is not visible at all, a tester cannot determine if the system is working as intended, so if your MOT tester/ garage said this was ok and legal then I'm afraid they've been lying to you, or they've not carried out the test properly, Let's be honest, I'm sure exactly the same thing happens daily across the country, but that doesn't mean that it's legal, or proper procedure!

When you say lack of power, I take it you mean that the engine is lacking power, not the brakes? Also, the 'soft' pedal in the morning, do you mean abnormally soft or just the normal brake pedal feel (with servo assistance) which then goes hard in a not normal way (i.e, how the pedal feels without servo assistance)? What condition is the brake fluid in?

The other possibility is that the servo itself is defective, if the unit itself isn't allowing the air that enters (on one side of the diaphragm when you apply the brakes) the unit to vent when you release the pedal you could end up with a brakes stuck on scenario. If it is the servo the complete unit will require replacement, it's not a serviceable item. Alternatively, as Chromedome says above, if the master cylinder is not returning properly or releasing pressure when you release the brake pedal it could cause a similar problem. Is the brake fluid clean? Debris in the system can cause problems.