insanitybeard

On the Mk2, the parts diagram gives the part no as 1108560, whilst I don't always 100% trust the part numbers quoted, it does seem to tally up- available here. P.S, if you read here, you may be able to get one F.O.C, though on a '55 plate your Galaxy may be too old unfortunately.

Not as standard they don't!

Did you turn the engine over manually (at least two complete revolutions of the crankshaft) subsequently to setting the timing and tensioning the timing belt, to ensure that the timing hadn't altered? Quite often it moves a little when you tension the belt, which is why it is recommended to recheck the timing is still correct once the tensioning procedure is complete.

If it ran ok up until the point where you changed the timing belt then it must be something that you've affected by doing it, you say you're happy that the timing is correct- are you positive that as well as the camshaft timing relative to the crankshaft, that the fuel pump is also timed up correctly? As you say it's a Mk1 TDI I presume it's the version with the mechanical fuel pump which is also driven off of the timing belt.

Has it only refused to start since you changed the timing belt?

Any chance of any wear or damage to the pedal box bushes or brake pedal/linkage to the servo rod preventing the rod from sitting in the correct position when at rest (therefore allowing slow release of vacuum into the servo- though I don't know how far the rod has to be depresesed before this would happen- more than would be allowed by a little pedal box wear I suspect)? There is also a square seal on the reverse of the servo unit, I'm not sure if this affects anything but was that renewed when you substituted the servo? Did the substitute servo have the same part number as the old one?

Was it a new genuine or secondhand/aftermarket servo unit you fitted? If you've changed all that then there can't be much left to look at. A faulty servo vacuum feed pipe wouldn't cause the brakes to lock on, nor a faulty vac pump.

Might just be worth looking into the ends of the affected coils and checking where the metal contact for the spark plug is, make sure it's not distorted/opened up/been crushed preventing it from seating on the spark plug properly.

Are they genuine or aftermarket coil packs? If they keep popping then they're either defective, the plugs themselves are wrong or there's gas from the cylinder escaping past the spark plug threads in sufficient amounts to blow the coils off!

The 6 speed manual used in the Mk2 is a VW unit, the 'MT350' is just Ford's designation for it, I'm not sure if VW also use the same designation or a different one. As Brian says, the 5 speed manual (VXT75) is a modified version of Ford's MTX75 gearbox, on the Mk2 it was only coupled with the 2.3 petrol engine, which is also a Ford unit (the only Ford engine used in the Mk2, unless you include the 2.0 litre petrol, but I've never seen a 2 litre petrol Mk2 Galaxy- at least, not in the UK!).

They might both be 6 speed manuals but that's about all they have in common. As Chromedome says, the 'MT350' 6 speed manual used in the Mk2 Galaxy is a VW manufactured unit, the (MMT6?) used in the Mondeo is a Ford (or at least Ford sourced) unit. The driveshaft arrangement is completely different, the selector setup is likely to be different as are the bolt holes, mountings, depth/size of bell housing, gear ratios etc. In short, although somebody may be able to debunk some of what I've written, try fitting a Ford 'box at your peril.

You can probably change it just by going in from the top but you'll need to remove the scuttle at the rear of the engine bay to open up a bit more room and improve visibility and access.

With the black smoke only occurring when the juddering is happening, that says to me that you could have an EGR fault- either an intermittently sticking valve, dodgy actuator solenoid or vacuum problem, an issue with the MAF sensor- which I believe is a fairly common fault that can give rise to poor running, or a boost problem with the turbo, either sticking vanes or again, a dodgy control solenoid or vacuum supply. You really need more info to work with though, e.g, to be able to check if any new fault codes have been stored or to have VAG-com installed and running on a laptop giving live data readouts from the engine sensors and actuators and go for a drive and look at the various readouts when the fault is occurring to see what's throwing a wobbly.

The 'wobble' is unlikely to be caused by worn intermediate driveshaft splines in my opinion, and in any case, like you say it looks like the intermediate shaft may have been renewed- the joint with the gearbox stubshaft is very clean, there's usually red iron oxide dust around the joint if it's on it's way out. As for play in this joint, if it's in good condition then I would say from experience approx. 1mm or so rotational play of the intermediate shaft relative to the stubshaft is fairly normal and perfectly ok, if it's a lot more than this then it's not a good sign. However, the wobble is most likely to be caused by wear in the inner CV joints- it's a common fault on the Mk2 Galaxy. Bear in mind that if you were trying to check for rotational play in the driveshafts with the wheels off the ground then the tripod rollers will have shifted within the inner joint casings away from where they spend nearly all of their working life (and in the position any wear will occur) and not be sat where they usually are when the vehicle is on it's four wheels, giving a false impression of the actual play in the shaft when the vehicle is in motion and under load- the best way to test is with the vehicle sat on the ground (or on a four post ramp as used for MOT purposes for example) though admittedly it's not easy to get underneath to check when this is the case! Even then, it doesn't need there to be much (read perceptible) play in the joint for it to be worn and causing the fault you describe.

What were the fault codes? Have you looked at possible EGR system faults? If there's black smoke when it's occurring then that's where I'd start, assuming there's no other codes logged.

The Mk2 Galaxy was never fitted with commonrail diesel engines, the PD engines they utilised are not the same as a commonrail diesel- see here. The Mk3 Galaxies will all have commonrail fuel systems on the Diesels, but they are of true Ford manufacture, unlike the Mk2 which is basically VW tech. The last of the Mk2 Sharans and Alhambras may have had commonrail lumps (I stand to be corrected here), but unlike the Mk2 Galaxy which finished production in 2006, they continued to be built until 2010 ish.

What do you mean by coil? I take it you mean you've had one of the unit injectors replaced? One of the known faults is that the wiring loom that runs through the cylinder head to the injectors can cause problems with dodgy contacts causing misfire/poor running. Has it logged any fault codes?

You don't say which engine you have...... I'm assuming it's a TDI with a 6 speed manual 'box, in which case look here, number 18 at a guess, don't take the quoted part numbers as gospel though.

It sounds like your intermediate driveshaft (the offside shaft which runs from the gearbox along the back of the engine to the offside inner CV joint) splines have sheared which is a common fault, I wouldn't say those prices are O.T.T, when the splines shear two separate shafts require replacement- if they were quoting for genuine parts I reckon it'd be a whole lot more expensive than the prices you've been given!

Intermittent fault/ dirty/worn contacts on the throttle position sensor on the throttle pedal? Has it registered any fault codes?

That's shocking. An excellent example of the two-faced approach manufacturers take to applying good engineering practice and their warranties! :o

Unfortunately if you've got a 5 speed manual (VXT75 which is a Ford 'box) then I don't think you can do a simple swap for the VW sourced 6 speed manual, for a start the driveshaft arrangement is different so you would probably need to change the driveshafts as well, then there's a good chance the gearbox won't line up with the locating dowels on the engine block, plus the clutch protrusion into the bell housing may well be different, and you'd need to swap the selector mechanism in the cabin, probably the mount as well....The thing is the 5 speed manual was a Ford 'box used with a Ford engine in the Mk2 Galaxy (the 2.3 petrol), the VW 6 speed manual was only ever fitted to VW engines- the TDI and V6. Somebody may be able to prove me wrong but there's far too much potential for things to be different between the two units for my liking.

If it's switched through the fan module (which makes sense as the fan must run when the aircon is switched on) then it could be an internal fault with the fan module. Do you know if the fan works?

Is the compressor actually running/ engaging? Probably not if you've only got 2.8V at the compressor clutch connector! Could be a bad contact/ resistance somewhere in the wiring or an internal fault in the climate control panel or maybe a dodgy relay. If it was pressure switch related I wouldn't expect a 'partial' voltage, I'd expect either a full 12V to the compressor or nothing at all, though somebody may correct me here. Can you make the clutch engage if you manually apply 12V to the compressor lead terminals?

Bear in mind that you may be able to buy a key blank cheap online, but it still needs to be cut and cloned or programmed to the immobiliser- this is what costs the money. You may not have remote locking but the fact that there is a red LED on top of the driver's door trim suggests there is an immobiliser fitted (I think all the Mk1 Galaxies had one installed). You should require just a standard non remote PATS key (key with a chip for the immobiliser), the one you've linked looks ok and if they cut it as well for that price then that's not too bad but it'll still need programming to the immobiliser, you can do this yourself only if you have two keys that are already programmed IIRC.