insanitybeard

Having watched the video you posted I can now see that the engine ran ok until the electromagnetic clutch attempted to switch in the air con compressor- the compressor is seized and the clutch has got hot trying to turn the compressor over- hence the red iron oxide colouring on the clutch end plate/cover. You may be able to get the compressor rebuilt but possibly a complete secondhand unit is the easiest way to go. Still going to need to be de-gassed though.

If all is well with the air con off then it sounds like the electromagnetic clutch is still trying to do it's job in which case the compressor itself is at fault- either partially or completely seized. Replacement of the complete unit (assuming you are going to source a good secondhand unit with the clutch already fitted) isn't that difficult, assuming no major problems with access, but the air con system will require de-gassing before you can remove and replace it, and then subsequent re-gassing, a specialist job.

Looking at the red oxide colouring around the electromagnetic clutch for the air conditioning compressor (it is what you think it is), it looks like it has got hot and the compressor or clutch could indeed be the culprit, if it is in the process of seizing up or has seized the resulting drag it would place on the engine would probably be enough to stall it. It would probably make an awful noise as you describe whilst doing it. Does switching the air conditioning on and off whilst the engine is running have any affect? Does the air con still work? With the engine switched off, try turning the compressor pulley clutch plate (disc) on the outside end of the pulley (which should turn independently of the pulley) by hand- it should turn smoothly and with little resistance. Looking at the colouring of the clutch plate would say there's a good chance the clutch is knackered, though compressor failure isn't unusual.

Heh, in all seriousness I wonder if that has anything to do with the fact that mine seems to chug over on the starter for a couple of seconds before it actually fires up- it doesn't exactly have the best service history, there's a good chance it's been filled with the wrong stuff under the 'care' of it's previous owner. I've changed the oil myself for the proper Ford spec stuff now but I wonder if damage has been done.... I know that mine has logged a MAF sensor fault which I thought may have something to do with the fact that it doesn't fire up straight away, but maybe there's a more serious issue with injector wear..... :( Or maybe the glow plugs are past their best.... that would be preferable!

I presume Ford's recommended oil for the TDI PD Galaxy must meet that spec- 5w40 fully synthetic formula SD, just checked the Ford technical databook, but unfortunately it's Ford's own specification reference, not a VW one! The Ford spec is WSS-M2C917-A.

If turning the key in the boot lock operates the other central locking motors but not the boot latch itself then it sounds like an internal fault with the latch to me- either something mechanical is seized or broken, or if the latch is electronically actuated by the key, a fault with the actuator itself.

To my knowledge the shields should all be pretty similar, though I'm not sure if the petrol and diesel engine shields are contoured differently at all. Fixings wise, the shields have 2x 10mm headed bolts either side that bolt into the chassis rails, and 2x 10mm headed nuts that go onto hexagon shaped rubber dampers at the rear (that bolt to the subframe IIRC)- so 6 fixings in total.

I changed the oil on my 'new' Galaxy recently, bought secondhand a couple months back..... When I got it, the oil level was a good 2 inches above max on the dipstick. I know the Ford spec oil for the Galaxy was 5-40 fully synthetic which was different to nearly every other Ford out there of the time which used 5-30 semi synthetic (Ford have now changed their 5-30 oil to fully synthetic). If the people responsible for 'servicing' a car can't even get the oil level remotely correct, you certainly can't trust them to have used the correct oil either! My Galaxy doesn't have an undertray at present, due to some previous badly repaired (read:bodged) accident damage. I plan to get one in the future, once I've fixed the other raft of front end problems mine has...... Front panel incorrect for the vehicle and broken, front bumper mountings broken, grille glued in with epoxy, broken intercooler mountings, damage to N/S chassis rail, etc. Being a former mechanic I should have been more cautious, should've known better, should've walked away! :wacko: In my defence the worst of the damage was out of sight to my -admittedly brief- inspection! You live and learn!

I'd check the blower motor resistor first, quite common for these to burn out and the most likely culprit if the blower works on some speed settings but not others. Not entirely sure where the resistor is on the Galaxy but I'd imagine somewhere up under the dash in the vicinity of the blower itself, possibly removing the passenger side (lower) glovebox will give you access.

No, because (assuming you are talking about the mark 2 Galaxy) the PATS transponder chip is completely separate to the remote fob circuit board- if you separate the key blade from the fob the PATS chip is glued* into the base of the key blade, it is not in the remote fob at all. Infact, quite often the chip drops out of the blade unnoticed when the key fob is separated causing the vehicle to not start when next attempted! (*-this usually fails over time!)

I'd be a bit worried if you could do it this way because it would mean anybody with a laptop and VCDS once inside your vehicle could program keys to your car and drive it away! :o

Having worked on mine recently I would say to get decent access, if you go in underneath and remove the intermediate driveshaft on the drivers side, that should open up some space to work in. I don't know how removing the radiator would help much to be honest, especially as you would then have to remove the engine mount and support the engine in order to tilt it forward. Obviously, removing the bulkhead panel at the back of the engine bay (as you would to change the pollen filter) will open up access to the top side.

Yes, as long as both of your keys are currently programmed to the PATS system and will start the vehicle, the owners handbook contains the procedure to erase all other keys apart from the two keys used in the erasure procedure, if you don't have the owners handbook I will try to copy the text for you, in my handbook it is on page 86 (my handbook was printed 09/2004, the car didn't come with one :rolleyes: so I bought the correct one off of ebay).

Never mind....... Beta tools do one, XZN 16mm male tamperproof 1/2" socket, part no. 014940296, list price

Hello all, Does anybody out there know where I can pick up a socket to suit the internal 12 point tamperproof drain/filler plugs used on the VW Economy 6 manual transmission? I expect Snap-On do something but it'll probably cost big bucks! Many thanks!

My Galaxy only came with one key, but when the locksmith cut the additional ones I bought he told me he was unable to clone the type of key found in the Galaxy, I didn't bother asking him why as I wanted to make sure that only my new keys and the one that came with the car were programmed to the PATS so that nobody would be able to come along and drive it off using an original key that the dealer/previous owner had 'forgotten' to give to me, and to do that I had to go to the local Ford garage so they could clear all the keys and just program the ones in my possession, It wasn't quite so bad for me because I used to work there, but even so, new remote keys are damn expensive!

Excellent, thankyou very much! :D Also, looking at that diagram does that mean that VW supply the individual connector multiplugs as spare parts?! My Galaxy has had a couple connectors chopped off by some bodgers having had an accident repair, I'd like to try and refit the proper connectors if I can!

Hello all, Having done some work in the engine bay of my diesel Galaxy the other day, I noticed the rigid glow plug wiring connector has literally disintegrated- presumably the heat and age have made the plastic brittle. The electrical connections are ok- for now, but just wondering if VW make a repair piece you can chop and solder in instead of having to replace a large chunk of the engine bay wiring loom, I've not yet looked at Ford's E-CAT but I expect if I can get it at all from Ford I'll have to buy the job lot with half of the engine bay wiring included! Thanks for any input! Paul

I just sold a little Ford Ka to get my 'new' Galaxy, I'd had the Ka for just over 10 years- I even passed my test in it! Sad day to see it go, I would've kept it but despite it being well looked after the rust underneath around the sills was starting to be a problem at MOT time, shame, the build quality really lets them down. Mechanically it was fine! Mind you, MOT tests are a lottery depending on the tester, my Galaxy was bought secondhand from a dealer and the MOT they had done on on it was a joke- the tester advised the front discs were rusty as his only advisory but failed to fail (boom boom) the car or even note as advisories that there was a CV boot completely split (and had been for some time judging by the amount of old hard grease thrown onto the subframe), the front/rear washers were connected back to front, the headlamp levellers were not working, and one of the rear seats was unusable because it was an incorrect seat- it was an offside seat installed on the nearside so you couldn't buckle anybody up in it!

I just bought a set of these things from Ford for my Galaxy, using my old contact at the Ford dealer I used to work they only cost me about 24 quid, FINIS 1135110. The key number on mine is 51, I think its the width and spacing of the splines that varies with the different key numbers, would attach a picture if I could work out how (maybe being a new memeber it won't let me yet!).

Thanks for the input guys, upon further investigation it actually turns out that I have a slow coolant leak from the bottom of the radiator- it's bent on the back edge. Basically I bought a Galaxy with some (mostly hidden on quick examination) previous accident damage to the N/S/F which was repaired to look ok on the surface, but deeper inspection revealed a number of things either bodged or not repaired at all!

Hello all, new member here....... I recently bought a '54 plate 130ps 1.9 diesel Galaxy (family requirement for more space, upgrading from a Ka!), I have some background with Fords as I have worked both as a technician at a Ford dealership and in parts- we always found the Galaxy's somewhat different (and therefore not always liked!) as they use a lot of VW tech with their own quirks and different procedures compared to the more run of the mill Fords. Anyway, my issue.....My recent purchase seems to be losing coolant, not visibly- no external evidence, but it's dropped the distance from the max-min level on the header tank and required topping up at least twice in the last 10 days.... A mate who still works for Ford reckons the watercooled EGR may be at fault, but does anybody have any experience of this? Just don't want to find my new purchase has a duff head gasket or something more sinister down the line! It doesn't appear to be overheating so far. Thanks for any input! Paul