insanitybeard

Is this jacket something that affixes to the underside of the plastic top cover? My 130ps TDI has the slightly different type of top cover to the plain black plastic one, and the only insulation is the foam insulation on the reverse side of this cover.

Do you mean the 'beautification' cover that sits on top of the rocker cover, or are you meaning what I assume may be number 4 here? Or is it something else entirely?!

Confusingly, I think 'superheating' was just one of Ford's terms for the booster heater. If you have one fitted I would think you'd have to have an auxiliary water pump fitted to circulate the coolant through the booster heater and rear blower box effectively.

Remember the turbo doesn't boost all the time, and certainly not straight from idle, so yes, the manifold pressure will be positive sometimes when the turbo is boosting but equally will be negative whenever it isn't. I think the turbo only really starts to boost when the engine speed hits around 1500rpm.

On the Mk1, the ambient air temp sensor used for the air con and temp readout looks like it's number 23 here, don't 100% trust the part numbers but it should be a reasonable guide. This diagram is for a Mk2 Galaxy as the link for the Mk1 diagram is busted but I believe shows the sensor (number 1, even though it says 'sensor- air conditioning' in the description!) in the wiper linkage area used by the booster heater to determine if it starts up or not. They are different sensors I believe.

Be careful if you buy a Bosch one (secondary water pump) from the 'bay, I nearly got caught out by somebody selling Bosch pumps with square connectors for earlier models, make sure the one you buy has the same part number as your old one- most of the Mk2's have a pump with a rounded connector and the part number 392 020 073, I got a pukka Bosch one from the USA as even with the import charges it only cost me about 70 quid including postage- checking now there's one here in Germany (for example) so you won't even have import charges to worry about, you may be able to get 'em for similar money in the UK from a Bosch agent but I wouldn't know where to look.

Yeah, the O.E driveshafts were likely made by GKN so you shouldn't go wrong there.

Did you change the bearings underneath the top mounts as well as the top mounts themselves?

Diesels especially with EGR suffer from oily gummed up inlet tracts especially after a few miles, the recirculated exhaust gas mixes with oil vapour forming horrible thick oily sludge which sticks to the internals downstream of the EGR valve. The breather hose isn't worth fussing about too much unless it's really sloppy or obviously split, the leakage from the EGR valve isn't unusual, it's just oil/sludge buildup in the inlet tract- mine's like it to a lesser extent, if you want to address that then you need to remove and decoke the valve and ideally the inlet manifold, a messy and time consuming job.

Yep, I had two fault codes on mine, as you- glow plug short to ground and also glow plug open circuit. If you've got a Z-F model heater then I'm 'fraid it sounds like your ECU has packed up to me..... Last winter my booster operated on perhaps 2 or 3 occasions, and that was it. When it did run, it was fine- no smoke or anything, so for me that as good as confirmed that my ECU had had it.

Have you checked to see if there are any fault codes stored? As Silverbeast said, on a 2005 reg yours has got a good chance of having a D5Z-F model booster heater which are prone to ECU failure, my '54 plate has this model and needs a replacement control unit.

There's the usual suspects like GSF and Euro, though looking at GSF I couldn't see a speed sensor listed. Failing that, if you want it delivered, you can find most things on the 'bay........

Some discussion on it here............

Ford do seem to have started charging a premium on some fast moving Galaxy parts (probably because many of them are VW sourced- call me an old cynic but it wouldn't surprise me if they don't want to warehouse some of it any more so have an agreement with VW so that when you order a part from Ford it actually comes from a VW warehouse.........) - I bought a replacement alternator to battery junction box cable (a commonly failing part that overheats at the junction box terminal) backalong and the latest level part number had a list price that was a damn sight more expensive that the previous one! Having just said that, of course the 2.3 petrol is a Ford sourced engine so what I said above isn't relevant in that case of a thermostat.... Sometimes I think the manufacturers just figure they can charge a premium for stuff, especially when there isn't an aftermarket alternative and you're stuck with paying whatever the hell the manufacturer decides to charge for it.

Under the skin and away from the obvious styling differences between the Galaxy, Alhambra and Sharan (and different engines and related items in some models) I think the majority of mechanical components are shared between the 3 models, allowing for differences in spec etc. Even the basic bodyshell is the same to my knowledge, the different looks mostly being due to different tailgates, wings, bonnets and front bumpers between the models!

Did you just think it was time for a change or was the Mk2 getting to the stage where the amount of work required to keep it going wasn't justified in relation to it's value?

Looking at the VW parts diagram for a '97 Sharan, there don't seem to be any additional seals on that diagram compared to the Ford parts diagram. Being that it's primarily VW build/components, I'd be surprised if the Ford servo was different to the one used by VW, does your old servo unit have a label with a VW type 7Mxxxxxxx reference on it? That may help identify it.

Not sure on the other brand but I believe KYB are an OE manufacturer so you shouldn't go too far wrong there.

The lower (aluminium?) bracket you've outlined green looks like it shouldn't be too bad to change but the upper cast iron one you've highlighted red looks like it also provides support to the fuel pump, if that's busted then (at least as well as I can tell from your picture) that'll involve fuel pump- and therefore timing belt removal to replace unfortunately. The other thing you need to establish is why it happened in the first place- something must have seized or let go quite spectacularly for the mounts to break.

If the impeller does fail it usually detaches from the shaft/spindle that is driven by the timing belt and would likely remain mostly intact in the cavity in the engine block that houses the water pump. Unless it's blasted itself to smithereens it shouldn't be able to go anywhere and cause any additional damage, apart from not doing it's job, which is serious in itself if it's not attended to PDQ!

I take it you swapped your old unit injectors into the new head? I believe the sealing o-rings fitted to the unit injectors that seal the low pressure fuel supply and return can harden with age and especially if you've removed and refitted the injectors into a different head could be leaking fuel. Other than that like you say the injector rocker adjustments could also be affecting it. Is engine performance ok?

I've used the Sykes Pickavant flaring tool in my days at the garage, good piece of kit- it was even up to flaring steel pipes! I don't think I'd bother with those cheap 30 odd quid kits you see- like you say, you get what you pay for!

Yep, that's it- the plastic seems to go brittle with age and just disintegrate- it's not a part you can buy from Ford (short of buying a complete engine bay wiring loom) but as it's a VW engine etc. you can buy it as a repair part from them- I paid about 30 quid for mine (and still have yet to fit it :lol: ), be aware though that unless you are prepared to strip the wiring loom from the glow plug connector back to the wiring multiplug, (which looking at the amount of cable they supply you with the repair part must be a bloody long way!) you will need to cut and solder in the new cables. You don't say what spec/reg etc your vehicle is but I assume a Mk2 as mine is, in which case number 3 off of this parts diagram is what you need.

If you mean the tailgate badge, this parts daiagram lists it as 1021061, which looks like a good number- there's one for sale here which carries that part number and is listed for the Mk1 Gal.

It's not obvious or easy to see but if you remove the cap and look at the inside, where the circular black pressure relief valve insert is, there is an O-ring on it's outside surface part way down which seals against the bore of the coolant bottle neck. If this O-ring is deteriorated or the valve suspect it could be allowing some coolant bypass, so it may just be worth substituting the cap in the first instance and seeing if that sorts it.