BrianH

Maf sensor will be in the large hose that leads from the airfilter to the engine. If its got the 299 code then thats your issue, Check the hoses to the turbo if any are split or not connected these may be the cause (small vacuum hoses). For anyone to advise more you need to provide a bit more detail (obviously its a Diesel of some sort, but the year might help somewhat)

try this http://catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l=bWFya2V0PT1ldXJvfHxjYXRfaWQ9PTExMDAxfHxjYWJicj09R0NBMXx8dGhrPT0zfHxzdD09MzB8fHN0cz09eyIyMCI6IkV1cm9wZSIsIjMwIjoiUy1NQVhcL0dhbGF4eSBDQTEgMjAwNi0ifXx8YWxwaGE9PTV8fGdyb3VwPT01MDExMHx8c2VjdD09NTAwOEFMWXx8c2V0PT1BMTUwMTEwfHxpbWc9PUcwMTQ5NjM2MTN8fGYxMj09LTkzOTQ0NDQ4MCsxMzc%3D

sounds like the clutch is not being fully released - either the hydraulic line down to it has air in and needs bleeding, or the release bearing needs replacing.

Whats said above makes sense to me - to check the alternator at its most basic level put a voltmeter (or multimeter set to DC voltage) across the battery terminals, compare the readings when ignition off and when running. If its the same (or lower/dropping) then the alternator would be the suspect. The unit itself may be ok, it could be a wire come off it if your lucky. No idea on if the mk3 has electric or hydraulic power steering, easiest way to check is to see if you can see a filler cap for the fluid (though on newer vehicles this may be obscured by an engine cover anyway)

You might have found what your original dpf died from - sounds like the engine is managing to burn its own engine oil. Does the level drop? You have a mk3 btw so post is in wrong section, hopefully someone can shift it to the correct section as you might get more answers there.

Beware of the above, this appears to be spam- check this post and you should see what i mean - the links both look very spammy. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/27681-contact-coil-voltage-curtis-1238/

No to having replaced them, but if they are the ones that go between the pipes and the rack (which i think is what your getting at) then these should be the ones http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-1017128-seal-stg-column/ Number 14 on the diagram, might be worth a call at least to see if they can get them. Otherwise suggest getting a set with multiple sizes of a suitable material and hoping you have something suitable there. Given the ones there could be over 20 years old you might get away with reusing them, its hard to tell what state they are in obviously until you have them out.

The drivers door should lock all doors yes, broken wires possible, if its been repaired in the wrong way (joints made inside the gaiter area) then they will keep breaking, the solution is to try and get any joints away from the bit of the loom that doesn't get bent. The chip (either missing or not programmed) should be able to be sorted by an auto locksmith. Not sure if it can be sorted by VCDS?

I'd try operating the inner door handles on the rear doors as a first step. Did you check the drivers door wires though?

I'd try operating the inner door handles on the rear doors as a first step. Did you check the drivers door wires though?

Has the whole hose you have failed, or is it a simple piece of it that has a problem (I had the fan switch hosing split on mine, which isn't available as a seperate part, it comes with the whole hose to the radiator, thermostat housing and expansion bottle, ended up replacing the whole thing as didn't have time to mess about with it and the bit that went to the expansion bottle on mine had been replaced with fuel hose a long time ago as it had started expanding where it had split internally, so solved two issues). If its one bit (hole in the hose for example) a joiner may be a suitable fix? Also if that part number you provide is correct, the ford number appears to be VW 8N 241 FB if that helps you any?

As far as i know the boot doesn't deadlock (its got no inside handle to lock, or at least mine hasn't, the mk2 might be different). If i unlock the boot using the key it unlocks the rest of the car at the same time if its locked. I'd try that, if it does work I'd suspect either the drivers door wiring to be suspect, or the drivers door lock to be defective. Given that both rear doors have locked I wouldn't expect the rear doors to be the source of the problem, although they may be. It might also be worth trying to disconnect the battery to see if it will unlock that way?

Any difference if you use the boot door lock barrel to unlock the car? I'd suspect broken wires in the drivers door have caused it to get deadlocked, might be worth checking for those and repairing then trying to lock/unlock?

I missed that bit, though i'd still say they need to confirm which bit they have the issue with. And the OP probabbly has more chance of getting a auto locksmith to get it sorted than Ford dealer as you suggest either way, I doubt anyone in the dealership would know how its done anymore on a car of that age. The last time i went in the one here they suggested trying the VW dealer (who to be fair was better - cheaper, and able to lookup without needing a VW reg or VIN)

Is it a sound like water moving about?

Original post is a bit vague - remote key not working as a remote, or won't start the car? If its the later then what Paul has already said, if its not working as a remote could be a few things - Can be down to it needing syncing, or could be that someone has sent it through the washing machine and you need to replace the remote....

Most of the bodywork on mine (except a wing mirror with a back cover in primer, and the passenger side door scratch where my mate managed to drag it too close to a hedge) is pretty good - theres a couple of rusty patches on the sills, but nothing that couldn't be sorted. Its the engine in mine thats the issue, on compression test last time i checked it has approx 100psi on 1/4 and 75 on 2/3 - its probably worse now as thats when i changed the plugs. It doesn't run particularly well any more (as you'd expect) and could do with a new set of piston rings, plus cylinder head checking out/refurb. It is on 235k now though, and given the state of the oil when i got it originally (grey in colour!) I'm not surprised its having engine issues now. Just haven't had time to fix it of late as too much other stuff getting in the way!

The bizarre thing is most of the spam doesn't even seem very targeted - Coilovers on a galaxy and racing pistons?? You certainly don't see many mk1s about now, mines in a similar state to Pauls undecided if looking for a mk2 would be better than fixing it.

The longer one would be the drivers side one - theres two bits to it, should separate near where the middle support bearing sits on it. May be easier to remove the whole shaft first, right the way back to the gearbox. You want a socket to fit the end bolt (you should replace said bolt, would expect a new joint/shaft to come with one), can't remember the size, but easy to check. Selection of tools to pry the shaft out might be a good idea, along with a couple of mallets or similar incase you need to persuade the clip to move that initial bit. something to remove the balljoint (you can undo the two screws that hold it to the arm, think from memory they are an allen key fitting). usual selection of spanners and sockets to fit the various fixings around that area. Something to remove the clamp from the boot if your replacing boot/joint rather than whole shaft (screwdriver usually good enough), And something to refit the new clamp with! Can't think of much else you'd need.

Best to enjoy the weather when you get the chance! Its worth checking what tyres are fitted - if the load rating is too low it has an adverse effect on the handling, which could explain some of the issue as well. I found it made the car feel very spongy when cornering, going up to the specificed 95 load rating on mine stopped that (and means the tyres last longer as they wear evenly rather than all on the shoulders)

Broken wires in the door gaiter - most likely either the boot or drivers door. Theres instructions in the FAQ section at the top of the forum, but first step would be to pull the rubber boot back to see if you can see broken wires inside - if so you need to fix them (instructions also in the faq). You only need to check the right hand side gaiter on the boot door, the lefthand one is just pipes no wires.

could be many things - you can unplug the maf as a starting point and see if its any better. If you have access to vcds (if not a lead can be had off ebay for a few pounds and the software is free) then you could do a scan to see if any faults are shown.

Mine failed at 159995 so might have been original? It literally failed completely the friction plate worn down to the rivets and not giving any drive anymore, though it did give clear clues it wasn't well before that,

And it tells you which wheel in the message so that saves a lot of guesswork!

most likely a broken reluctor ring - take a look at the end of the driveshaft there will be a toothed ring on it, I'd guess it has a crack on it and will require replacement. You should be able to pick one up off ebay etc rather than replacing the whole joint or shaft. Shouldn't be more than a few quid.