BrianH

have a look though here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/26272-speedometer-not-working/?hl=speedo If whats posted there is correct its done off the abs sensors. At a guess you might have found the reversing light switch? Either way do you have an abs light lit (if not does the abs light come on when you first go to start? if not then either the bulbs blown or missing?) Or any faults shown if you look with VCDS ? Edit And if not have a look at this http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/16434-19tdi-lost-your-instruments-then-read-this/

He does mention it being diesel in the original post though its easily missed. A scan for fault codes would be a good idea as it may show up turbo issues etc. It does sound like it could be a turbo issue though the temperature i wouldn't have thought would have made a difference to that?

You need a vagcom cable for vcds - You should be able to pick one up off ebay etc fairly cheaply. Look and see what fault codes are present first. Are you sure yours still has a DMF fitted given the milage (is it on the original clutch?)

Have a look at the auto transmission fluid - theres a chance you don't have enough in there or its turned to sludge (the longer running would heat the fluid more so its less sludge like and able to change). There is some info on here about how to check it.

Depends how its gone bad - look if the outside is showing signs of cracking/crazing its past its best. If the piston moves back easily on the front then it should be ok providing it doesn't leak, and does move to clamp the wheel when you push the pedal down. If you find the pressure required to push the caliper back is much higher on one side than the other this may indicate the hose is bad. Given the cost of the hose (less than

Are you sure yours doesn't have aircon already? My base model Aspen 2.0 does, so would have thought they all would. In common with most it doesn't work though..........

You should be able to upload them on photobucket or similar and post a link to the photos that way to show what you mean. If one side is worn (theres less pad left on the metal than the other side) then it sounds like you may have a sticking caliper. Either way changing the pads sounds like it was needed. Worth bearing in mind that the discs do wear as well if your new to dealing with this, although not as quickly as the pads

Unplug the lock and see if it still does it (theres a connector on the lock mechanism itself), If it stops misbehaving then the gaiter up at the top of the boot would be where i'd start looking as they are known to cause problems.

Sounds like you have found your problem then just need to find its cause. Good luck

The flexible hose on the brake caliper can fail in such a way it binds - checking the pads on each side against one another may show one side is wearing faster. If it is then check the caliper actually retracts, if it doesn't seem to want to try opening the bleed nipple and see if theres any change. If it then works i'd replace the flexible hose first, if not it may be the caliper.

It may be worth taking the door card off and having a look if its coming through the liner for some reason. If so its getting into the door somewhere...

I recall seeing someone having done a mod to allow a Mondeo coilpack to be used in place of the separate 2.3 ones - I think on this forum. what you describe seeing sounds to me like that may be whats been done? It might be worth trying to get a photo up here for others to have a look at?

the genuine relay has been said to be around

I'm not sure if the relay 30 problem applies to the 2.8 engine as thats the vw type. it definitely applies to the 2.0 and 2.3. TBH its worth pulling the fusebox apart and giving it a try if your handy with a soldering iron or know someone who is. Or have one you can swap it for. You may find the jerky problem is down to either not enough fluid, or the fluid being in poor condition. Garage should be able to advise and there is some more info on here about the process of changing the fluid or checking it. The other thing to bear in mind with it being an automatic is there will be a starter inhibitor switch on the gearbox - this should prevent it starting if its not in park or neutral but may be acting up particually if its being shaken about.

Does relay 30 apply to the 2.8 petrol?

check your fusebox hasn't gone into meltdown with it being a mark 2 and you mentioning the burning smell as well. Quite a few people on here have had that happen.

If your handy with a screwdriver and soldering iron you should be able to pull the relay out and resolder it (the joints go bad over time). I'd have thought you'd your answer in around an hour that way. Usually the door led behaves differently if its a relay 30 issue. Either way the relay is far cheaper to change first if you don't want to try resoldering it.

i think its 109 on the diesel ones but same applies pretty much. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/26325-which-relay-19-tdi-mk2/?hl=relay has some more info.

Only other thought is the undertray moving?

I had (still have actually the problem, but due to failed clutch not using the Galaxy at the minute) the same sort of issue. i found the shock absorber had around 2 inches of play on it at the top. If you can jack the car up on the side in question see if it moves. I'm told its a failed top mount most likly but due to dealing with another car haven't got round to doing anything about it yet (the top bolts on mine are rusted to hell so aren't going to be the easiest to get off either).

Relay 30 as you discovered is the problem. And yes its an immobiliser fault as you suspected as relay 30 supplies the power for the immobiliser!

Check you have got the right bulbs in the holders - if you have a single contact in the bottom of the holder then check it matches the bulb. I've checked my mk1 it has double contacts so should have double filament bulbs installed. I've seen people force the wrong bulb into the holder and cause problems like what you have described.

Can't you obtain a switch yourself and fix it? there is instructions on here for changing the switch although if you have already found the switch to wiggle it then your halfway there. Even if you had to replace with a pattern one from ECP or similar it would seem a better idea than messing with any of the rest of it.

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/24761-auxillary-fuse-box-burnt-out-leaves-ignition-dead/?hl=meltdown&do=findComment&comment=175091 < Thats the fusebox problem i meant originally. The reasoning behind that is that you stated that other things outside of the cluster (afaik) namely the lights on buzzer not working properly. Perhaps someone else can confirm the location of it but i'd have expected it to be in the fusebox - maybe its in the cluster? This may also be worth reading though - you don;t mention if its an auto or manual? http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/22416-speedo-not-working/?hl=meltdown&do=findComment&comment=171068

Have a look at your fusebox if i were in your position. Theres something to do with a faulty crimp causes it to start melting (theres further info on here about it, but the longer its left the more damage it does). Also look at http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/16434-19tdi-lost-your-instruments-then-read-this/