BrianH

Edit - it may help to remove the bulkhead panel to locate the loose end you need to thread back through? should be able to see it though as you can operate it to find the end?

It runs down the lefthand side of the car under the piece of trim next to the door seal. Theres a join at the front which comes apart due to it being frankly pathetic - its originally just 2 rigid bits of pipe pushed into a short section of flexiable pipe. It comes apart as detailed above and i'd say you will likly find the end of it is somewhere further up in the engine now - it could be its become caught on something and pulled out. If you take the screws out and that cover off you should be able to see the joint just under the level of the glovebox. I'd be surprised if the fault is elsewhere given the awful "design" of this particular part. I fixed mine more permanently with a couple of fuel line clips either end of it. At least one of the bits of hose is bright orange in mine so should be easy to see.

I've spoken to someone who couldn't understand how his £30k's worth of brand new Audi disappeared whilst parked overnight in the car park of where he worked. Until he got the security tapes for the time and saw one of those recovery trucks with a 4 point lift turn up and collect it that was. So if there is someone who wants it badly enough it can happen.

Your probabbly looking at a new cat then if all else appears to be in order.

It would be a start to see if its logging any errors via the diagnostics - the socket is under the ashtray and a normal obd reader will read them on the ford engined ones. If its failing i'd expect to see Have you tried anything else though - its high CO i'd suspect you mean rather than co2 which may be indicating a problem with the airflow (air filter been changed recently?) The SAI system as far as i can understand it is to do with warming up the cat on startup. mines logged errors for as long as i've had the car but still goes through on emissions ok. any of the following would suggest the secondary air system has a fault if you manage to get a fault code reader connected P1411 Secondary Air is Not being diverted P1413 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor Circuit Low Voltage P1414 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor Circuit High Voltage P1442 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor Circuit High Voltage

Try fuse 19 - its not what the book with my petrol one says should have anything to do with it, but it does supply the power to my 2.0 petrol. Also supplies the dash battery power so if the mileage display disappears and the trip resets when you stop this would sound like the fuse. If it is blown there must be a cause of it somewhere, most likely a broken wire shorting out.

The sai pump as far as i can tell is used to warm up the cat when you start. Mine doesn't work properly either (it throws errors and makes a racket when starting) but hasn't actually caused a noticeable problem besides that. Might shorten the life of the cat though it being broken. And probably affects the emissions when its cold/first started.

That flashing light appears to be trying to tell you it thinks the expansion bottle is empty afaik. So that would make sense.

I've used an irwin bolt extractor on a couple of stuck and destroyed sump plugs sucessfully. Obviously still need the new one afterwards. See http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area1&_requestid=42085 Its also on amazon or ebay. Sump plug looks like gsf can supply so you shouldn't have any problems sourcing one from pretty much any decent motor factors - see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Oil-Sump-Drain-Plug-for-Ford-Galaxy-95-06-/300744363791

I've had this happen on one side on another car i had - turned out after replacing the caliper it was actually the flexible hose causing the issue (guess it was falling apart internally and preventing fluid flowing back). So may be worth looking at that if you haven't already first?

ECM i think you will find means electronic control module rereading whats been said already. I would personally understand that to be meaning the same thing as the ecu although its more of a generic term. If you have one of the diagnostic plug in boxes (the standard obd2 readers you can pickup from ebay etc for about £10 will work for the ford engined varients) then see if it will connect when it stalls. If it doesn't connect this would point towards the immobiliser area (the ecu will only connect when the immobiliser is deactivated by seeing a key with the ignition on). If it will connect some of the time but not others i'd start looking at that although it seems you have already ruled out relay 30. Its worth taking the fuseboard with that load of relays out and really making sure visually that the connections are properly inserted - the relays will still click with a cable out as theres multiple connections on them.

I'd try swapping the battery as well if that doesn't work. Trouble is items like the immobiliser will play up if not getting the right voltages etc. Even if it does start it doesn't mean the battery is acutally all that good, and your reporting the charger showing it doesn't charge fully would suggest its not great. Even if you have to borrow one off another car to try it its got to be worth a try.

I think its more noone has a clue what the problem is. You mention the battery though - Just a thought have you actually ruled out the battery though? Even borrowing a known good one may be some help to diagnosis.

Bit far for me as well unfortunately.

Depends if you can get the cable drivers to work under win 8 really. A Fairly newish cable might work if your lucky. Unfortunately most of the ones available are produced on a shoestring budget so getting hold of updated drivers may not be possible. Either way until you get the cable to work the light won't get reset even if you clear the fault that caused it. Where actually are you in the south east? Only other thing i can suggest if you can't get the cable to work at all is first off connect the cable and look in device manager - if its installed without errors find out which com port windows has given it, if its anything besides com 1-4 then see what ones aren't being used and try to set it to one of those (com 1 or 2 is usually a good bet). Then set vcds to the same port and see if you get any luck. I did find personally that the airbag module is VERY picky about communicating - You have to connect the cable up, switch on the ignition but don't start the engine and then try to connect. Any other attempted sequence didn't tend to work it would just fail to connect. Will vcds actually speak to any modules at all? if it gets down to just the airbag module then you may be getting somewhere with diagnosis.

You will need to get the vag com lead working - if its the clock spring you should be able to connect and see the error on one of 4 modules. The clock spring or squib would flag up an error on the drivers airbag probably saying high resistance intermittent as it seems they fail but don't necessarily break. Even if you have fixed the error you still need vag com to tell the airbag system to clear the errors before the light will go off - they don't automatically clear themselves. If you can't even connect to the controller i wouldn't bother trying to change the clock spring as theres a fair chance theres nothing wrong with it and the controller has a problem of some sort (no power, corroded connections/not plugged in correctly etc)

Does your kit support this? theres a switch activated by the door lock barrel that activates this you may need to add this connection to your kit to get it to work if it supports doing so.

It may be worth checking the gearbox oil level - I'd expect theres a level plug somewhere on the box if you remove it and nothing comes out adding some of the correct oil to it may be enough to solve the problem. I've known the gear change to stick on other cars when this is the case.

might be worth testing the button with a multimeter then - if you disassemble the key and connect a meter across the contacts see if the circuit completes or not (probably need someone to help by pressing the button while you do it).

The first link has the following vital point "Arrived complete with a new blade but the electronics are not included, just use them from your old fob." Depends whats wrong with your fob - if the switches are at fault this probabbly won't help as your reusing the guts of your old key anyway Not sure how easy reprogramming is although i'm sure theres posts here about it. Have a look if the key is cheap enough that you feel ok if it doesn't work then go for that? You might have more luck opening the key and seeing if you can find a repair kit with the switches to sort the one out you already have though?

Its quite easy to push the contacts out of the fusebox on changing the relay which would cause that. If that relay (usually one with 30 on the top) is the culprit the led on drivers door will usually behave oddly so what is that doing and are you getting any beeping inside the car?

The glass is attached to the regulator - You need to strip the door apart, remove it from the mechanism and then you can lift the glass up and out of the runners by angling it appropriately. At least that's how i removed the window regulator when i needed to do so. i think the glass was stuck on from memory rather than bolted so you will need some sort of suitable adhesive to fix it back on afterwards. It should be fairly clear once you get the door card off anyway.

A few basics for repairing broken wires wouldn't be a bad idea - theres info on splicing new wires in the faq section on doing so. Soldering iron and cutters/wire strippers mainly.

that sounds like it could actually be a starter motor solenoid to me personally. i'd start looking at the connections there. If you have any access to an obd reader you can somewhat rule out problems by trying to read codes - if it fails to read there is a fairly good chance that the immobiliser is a problem in someway (relay 30 as mentioned above is one possibility - the door led is usually a good clue on this). If you can get access to the starter solenoid check if any power is reaching it? on the 2.0 if the immobiliser is active the starter still turns just it fails to start.

You can also use one of the memory saver type devices. Its probably a good idea to have a record of the code anyway. Its been noted a few times recently that with used ones that previous owners have noted the code ontop of the unit somewhere once you pull it out having encountered the same problem so that may be worth a look.