BrianH

Depends what the cause of the problem is. It wouldn't be something to recommend and certainly won't do it any good driving with a fault espically if its being caused by a lack of oil either circulating through the system or just not enough in their (old oil seems to thicken in these). Auto gearboxes can show all sorts of odd behavour when the fluid isn't ideal and really its the only thing you can easily do much about. Only other thing you can try is looking for faults with vcds which might send you down a different path. Personally I'd check the fluid every so often anyway even when its a supposedly sealed for life system like these are supposed to be where its possible to do so.

Could be all sorts of things causing it, but a couple of simple things to try Check the oil level in the gearbox - and what state the oil is in! Check for any error codes using vcds Have a look at this post its similar issues. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25385-knew-i-shouldnt-have-bought-an-auto/

Not sure what the second bit is referring to. At a guess non-conducting is referring to either heat or electricity. Wouldn't have thought electricity would matter as only a heated screen would have any electricity on it anyway and that would be sealed inside the glass as far as i know. Maybe someone else can suggest a reason why this might matter or not? The main reasons for the windscreen glue is you should be fine with having it in contact with the bit thats come off of yours, it shouldn't do any harm to the windscreen (anything that dries hard could cause it to crack due to stresses involved) and should be ok in an outdoor application (the weather shouldn't affect it).

I'd use proper windscreen adhesive personally rather than liquid nails. At least then if you have to replace the windscreen at some point it shouldn't cause too many extra problems. Not had to do it personally though.

i think if i remember from when i had mine out you can turn the switch round once you take the insert out. Are both switches wrong? - if so turn it round should sort that out. Its keyed so won't be as simple as reversing the connector. if it is turned around the left switch will operate the drivers window instead of the right (assuming you have a RHD model that is). If its LHD i think the right hand switch will do the drivers window. You never said one way or the other so assume it could be either as your in France. I'd guess at a stuck switch or reversed wiring going to the door lock (theres a 3 pin connector on there with two switches). Bearing in mind that you have had other bits of wiring repaired it may be down to something connected back to front here? Might be a stuck or broken switch in the remote. Not got remote locking on mine so don't know if these are prone to wearing out like others are.

Your selected leads should be fine. The one you have if it works with vcds lite or VAG com isn't a standard obd lead its a vagcom lead hence it doesn't work for the engine as your engine and ecu is a ford version (which will work with standard diagnostics). It will as you have already discovered talk to the VW parts and to the diesel or 2.8l engines but not the 2.0 or 2.3 petrol ones. You just want a standard code reader of some sort to get fault codes if thats the route you need to go down.

shouldn't make any difference as long as they are both identical units. Getting a recon/service exchange would be quicker than waiting to get yours reconditioned. Not even sure you could just buy a new one anyway now.

There are a few options in vcds for lights if you have a cable. If you can't see anything obvious I'd start by looking there. Would also suggest you check theres no water sitting inside any of the lights and try them in combination (indicators and brakes on at the same time for example) as you may have an earthing issue that its showing up. Anything lighting up when it shouldn't is usually down to water getting somewhere it isn't wanted and causing corrosion hence bad contact.

Just realised someone else said what i was about to post...

It would be worth looking at the fluid level if nothing else (the condition of the fluid while your at it wouldn't be a bad idea to check). Theres some info here from the faq section http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/5899-autobox-oil-change/&do=findComment&comment=40671 might also be worth a look with vcds lite if you have a lead to see if any faults are being logged?

It comes out by twisting the connector. It was pretty stiff on mine the first time. The toothed bit should rotate anti-clockwise if i remember correctly as you look at it from the door side. You may find as others have that the connector in the door pillar comes out as you do this so be prepared to get behind it to push it back into place. Theres a retaining ring that holds it in place that you should be able to put back on if it comes off.

Drivers door gets the most use so its usually what you'd expect to fail first. only thing i can suggest is to investigate the connection between the door and car - its possible if you have taken the connector out that one of the wires has come pushed out of the connector as you have put it back in.

Have another look in the door - particularly for a red wire if its an early one same thickness as the brown one. Mine broke but managed to get far enough back in the gaiter you couldn't initally see it. What model/year is it and what doesn't work on the door? (windows? mirrors?)

bearing that in mind and the fault code from the other post I would start looking at the black module that connects to the sai system. You might find the pipes have started splitting apart. I replaced mine with normal vacuum hose. Haynes manual does have reference to the egr in the petrol section but it wouldn't be beyond possibility that its wrong in suggesting there is one. No posts on here relating to the petrol egr suggests to me that most likely there isn't one. Photo attached to show the bit i mean.

Not in line with each other - one will be higher than the other. look at a different car sometime and you should see the connection drops down to reduce the strain on the wires. Not something you can actually sort out but it seems to add to the problem (its a poor design thats all).

Your best bet for diagrams will probably be the Haynes manual you already ordered, although TBH they are less than perfect so don't blindly believe all they say.... Your whirring sound could be any of the motors really. Easiest way to tell would be unplugging parts inside the door till you find the culprit. Its possible the window regulator has broken in some way but more likly to just be down to the wires. And to find the wires you will probably find them broken as Seatkid says above, Only thing i'd add on this is if you can't see any dig a bit deeper as they seem to find their way up inside the gaiter if broken for a while so you may be unable to see them at first. Mine also broke off very close to the connector so was fairly easy to miss at first. The faulty wires seem to be blamed on a number of factors including others have said the lack of an offset on the connection which makes sense as other cars i've had haven't had issues like this but do have them offset.

Have a look at this thread - this looks to be the diesel engine but at least should give a clue of where your looking to start with. Theres too much snow here to look on mine unfortunately. I'm not even sure without looking if mine even has one either. Your going to get people confused by posting your problem in other peoples threads - either continue your own or create a new one where necessary http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/18552-egr-valve-cleaning/ I can't find any posts on here mentioning egr and petrol that seem to be relevant but that could be down to the way i'm searching.

to confirm - the gaitor is the rubber black flexiable boot that goes between the door and the connector (the bit that flexes with the hinges to allow the wires to get to the door). I'm not sure how well it translates so it may not be immediately clear what bit it means in the instructions.

You can get to the back of the socket fairly easily if you take the lower panel that covers the fuseboard area off (the panel thats attached by screws). Once you have got that off you can then relocate the connector easily. If you can get the passenger side to go down from the drivers switch and no other operation on that side but it works from the passenger side you probabbly have a broken red wire inside the rubber gaitor that needs rejoining. Just pull the rubber boot back and you should be able to rejoin it to get the window shut. Unless as you say something else is up with the wiring. You might be successful in getting a replacement door loom but it may be no better than what you have currently - the broken wires issue seems fairly common. You'd also need one that matches your car (if you have electric mirrors you need the loom from one that has the same etc).

Your picture is of the secondary air injection system as far as i can tell. If its a split pipe i'd start by looking at the one on the brake servo firstly as I've found mine had split. I also had the two pipes from the sai system that go up to the module near the battery fall apart although you would probabbly notice if they had gone as mine sounded like there was a large hole in the exhaust when those pipes split.

Would have to have a look in mine to tell you for sure, and theres currently too much snow here to do so today. if it clears up tomorrow I'll have a look. if it helps it will somehow link between the exhaust manifold and inlet system.

Good to see you found it. The bit that hides the spark plugs is the fuel injector casing, Don't think you need to remove that though. Hopefully you can now see the EGR and find something wrong to correct.

Bulkhead is the black panel at the back of the engine that gets in the way of most things you want to do. sits under the bonnet/wipers and covers most of the front width of the car. You need to take out 3 bolts to remove it (it then pulls out). If your still not sure which part it is have a look for scuttle drains post in the faq section. Don't need to remove the battery just the large bit of black plastic behind the battery (not bolted in place just slotted on). only think it says to remove that to allow removing the bulkhead panel. if i get chance I'll find a pic for you and post it.

Might be worth looking at http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/16183-need-help-with-galaxy-loss-of-power/ if you haven't already.

haynes manual says the following steps to remove it so following the first two should allow you to see it 1)pull out the battery compartment upper cover (i'd assume it means the bit that goes above the expansion tank) 2) remove the bulkhead cover 3) unscrew egr supply pipe union and disconnect pipe 4) slacken and remove two bolts securing the valve, disconnect vaccum hose. also has a note about replacing the egr valve to manfold pipe whenever it is removed. So following the first two should allow you to see it. Any other errors coming up?