BrianH

Only other option if you don't want to remove it is find someone breaking one on ebay and ask them. ideally one locally to you that you can pick it up. You also need 4 bolts and 2 nuts providing the original fixings are still there to reattach it to.

It is cheap! but it works. The other one i linked looks a bit better but its still cheap compared to a fully functioned one (which start from about 10 times more expensive!). The alternative used to be flash codes which are a lot less user friendly so be thankful you haven't got to deal with those!

Won't help changing them if they aren't getting any power in the first place though? there will be some sort of controlling relay it could well be that that has failed. All you would be doing by what i suggested is bypassing the relay to see if that is your issue (I could see it could be a fuel issue as well but since you mention the glowplugs it makes sense to try and rule them out). if the plugs weren't really needed at least some of the time VW wouldn't have put them on there. Some diesels don't need them (direct injection usually) but this one obviously does. One word of warning - use a decently sized cable (fused if you can would be best) as they will draw a fairly high amount of current, and don't keep them on there more than a few seconds.

"i did find back in the winter that i had no power getting to the glow plugs,and left that as because of the weather and a mechanic told me it would start without them as at the time he could not find out what was wrong with it when he had a quick look for us,at that time when started it would run perfect all day,could turn of engine for three or four hours and still started fine" Thats fairly typical of glowplugs that are starting to go or that some have failed, and this will get a lot worse as the weather gets colder. If you have no power theres usually a relay hidden somewhere in the engine (i don't have the diesel version so don't know where) which will switch them on. If your getting nothing at the busbar to prove the point firstly i'd try touching a thick cable between the busbar and the positive on the battery for a few seconds, then try starting as normal. If it starts you then know what the cause of your poor starting actually is and then can start trying to locate it. Which model is it?

As long as the busbar is removed then testing in situ should be fine, any odd readings should to show up tested in place or not as theres only a simple circuit involved with the ground running back through the outer metal of the plug.

Where are you changing the com port? If your changing it in vcds/vag com it may not be set to what you expect it to be in windows - whats it set to in device manager?

That will be fine for what you require fault code wise. I'd have a check on the wires to the sensor as well i know mine has a dodgy connection where someone has tried to repair it previously by soldering (I'm going to repair it properly with another connector when i get chance!)

I've used J&R for boots and cv joint in the past (same place your looking at - they sell direct as well) seem cheap but good. prefer their boots as the clips that come with them tended to have more holes punched into them than others to allow fitting (some I've had on other cars didn't have enough holes punched into them, and the last thing you want is to find that when you already have it in pieces). The CV joint I've had off them never got fitted but looks fairly good especially considering the price. Delivery was quick as well.

when your turning the key in the lock then you are physically moving bits inside the lock that would normally be moved by the motor under other circumstances. If the locking still works when you have the kit installed then it points towards a broken part inside the catch, I'd get another catch/lock from the scrapyard and see if its any different (you may be able to tell by just plugging it into the loom and operating the lock manually with a screwdriver to close it.

It should do, It requires the ignition to be on but the engine not started/running for most parts to be accessible. If you have the drivers for the cable installed i'd try vcds lite instead with the same cable and see if thats any better, if not then you might have a problem with your settings.

1st question The laptop cable above is a standard obd cable - it should be fine but limited in what detail you can get. If you want to see what engine errors are reported it should be fine, it won't do anything beyond the engine/emissions system though - so airbag etc won't show anything on it. I think the ford f-super should work on that that you can find on ebay although i've found thats fairly limited on what it will work on. Remember that the galaxy is a VW for the most part hence most of the diagnostics are VW based. 2nd question The older galaxy petrol models work fine. All petrol cars built from 2001 are required to have it, but ford on some vehicles have it anyway (most after around mid nineties have some form of diagnostics but may use a proprietary connection and be somewhat limited in their output). (mondeo mk2 also works or at least mine does! have also seen notes of escorts being capable and they went out of production before it was required!). If you want laptop diagnostics theres two basic routes either the basic obd cable which has some uses but is fairly limited, or a more specific one for the particular vehicle. I've got the f-super one and that gives a lot of options for the extra modules airbags and such for newer vehicles. Theres another one available that is a bit wider ranging on what it supports but I don't have that one

Before condeming the cv joint itself you might want to check its actually tightened up properly on the hub nut as i've known that to be loose and cause enough noise on full lock to make me think that the joint was shot. Went to take it off and the centre nut had no resistance to it at all. So changed plan tightened it and noise disappeared after that!

Would be a good place to start with the code reader, although they aren't always indicated as faulty even when they are not working properly.

Not sure then if anything that does the opposite of what I'd expect. It could be the dreaded broken wire issue in the gaiter or a broken door lock can't see its down to you having not spliced into the right wires as you get the others locking. Can only see you as having two options either take the door card off and try another lock unit or check the gaiter for any broken wires. I think the door catch/lock is the more likely one to go with.

might be a good start on the loom but there must be a reason someone did that in the first place. only one real way to find out though and your suggestion for the first step sounds like the best bet. Only problem you may run into is finding one intact one (the scrapyard i went to most recently has fired all of theirs by applying current to the connectors after stripping them off. Required to by the environment agency they say - though how firing them improves anything pollution wise i don't know, could see safety as no chance of them going off by mistake after that).

Actually thats exactly what my passenger lock does. which is annoying as the drivers one is broken. How about if your sat inside the car and press the door handle on each of the front doors - do both sides lock like that or does it only work one way?

Agree on that point i think thats probabbly also the reason the clocks are assembled in that fashion to prevent doing it. I get the distinct idea that its almost designed to be impossible to get the unit back together if you start taking it apart that far anyway to avoid people fiddling the milage display amongst other things. Its probably the clock spring causing the problem they are usually the culprit on here. And by design once its detected a fault the light comes on and stays on so you know to fix it. The too low error is caused by the metal clip on the plug connecting the two prongs (by design). Think of what the clock spring does every time you turn the wheel its not really surprising it fails (although more often than others appear to). Personally I'd take it for mot asap if everything else is sorted and then deal with the airbag afterwards as you have suggested. Also not sure that the behavior of the led is identical on startup to the oil one, The oil won't go out till engine starts whereas airbag on my other car goes out after a short delay even if you don't start (the galaxy one has not worked in the 7 months i've had it and hadn't got round to fixing it as been busy fixing other stuff on there.

You will need one of each if you want full diagnostics - theres info in the faq section on this but it works out at needing some sort of obd reader compatible with the ford parts for the engine, and a vcds cable for everything else (airbag etc). The u840 works as does the other one i listed for the engine (i've got both for different reasons, prefer the maxiscan one personally as its easier to understand some errors it comes up with). The drivers issue should be a case of finding the cable drivers and installing them (mine works on windows 7 32 bit but cable is fairly recent one). once they are installed then vcds should work once you set the appropriate com port in device manager and change vcds to match (i think mine is using com2 but windows installed it on com 32 or something equally odd due to the existance of other serial port devices which had existed previously i guess). If you open device manager (right click computer > Manage > Device manager) Does the device get listed under com ports and appear to be installed? if so which com port is it using? If not do you have the original cd that came with the cable or any idea which cable it actually is?

if your vehicle details in your signature then yes it should work for your car. Maf may not throw a fault code though even if faulty. Why do you think its faulty?

Does the lock on the other door work correctly with the key? I've known the lock motor to fail in this way on other vehicles and it will unlock from the key as you don't need the motor for that door but fails from the other door. If it fails from the passenger side i'd say that the lock motor is dead. Without further info hard to say for sure but could be a broken wire in the door gaiter as another possibility.

You won't get an answer from VAG com or VCDS with the 2.0l. You need a generic obd reader for that bit vcds for the rest. I think you will need to identify the cable you have to find the drivers for the cable to get that to work for the rest of the bits (there is a few possibilities). Something like this would be your simplest option Basic will need errors looking up to translate to something meaningful http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U480-Universal-OBD2-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-diagnostic-scan-tool-UK-/251241297493 Slighly better gives english translation of errors - Doesn't work on all errors so may still need to lookup http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-FAULT-CODE-READER-ENGINE-SCANNER-DIAGNOSTIC-RESET-TOOL-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD-/230827109163 Laptop version of the same thing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-V1-5-OBD2-OBDII-CAN-BUS-Auto-Diagnostic-Interface-Code-Scanner-Reader-Black-/160989964970 Take your pick the vag com cable won't work for the engine but is useful for other parts if you can locate the drivers. A model of the cable you have might help finding those.

Ditto mine exactly the same as the first clock spring i got didn't work, and the second is currently sat indoors waiting for better weather. I put mine in around 3 weeks ago as the tax was up expecting it to fail and was amazed it passed with several advisories which I will work on. Airbag on mine is an advisory note. Don't think your idea with the light will be as easy as you think as it looked to me when i had the clocks out to replace the bulb behind the fuel gauge that the airbag one is an led buried on a second board. I do gather its supposed to come in but not in as yet. I also have found that the manager in any station will tend to err on the side of caution and say it may fail when the tester may say otherwise (as they will know the current regs better anyway). Edit - should have scrolled further down the thread. But still may help with the note about the light.

Would be true if the locks on the galaxy were better designed so they don't break so easily. That paddle on the back doesn't seem to cope too well with any sort of resistance from the catch unfortunately. I think by flat he means the plain non-remote key rather than one with a flat battery but the same applies either way.

Looking at my key the chip isn't in the removable bit but mine doesn't have remote locking so yours may be different. Only thing i can suggest is trying someone who cuts keys to see if they can reprogram it (the battery won't help its for the remote locking or light if you still have the lock barrel its relatively easy to fix with a lock repair kit. if you don't have it then it would mean you'd end up with another key for that lock. Have a look on ebay for lock repair kit for an idea of what your looking at (there is 2 types of lock so you may need to take the handle off to see what to do). Its a generally poor bit of design from what I've seen of it and very prone to failing. lock repair key was about £20-25 last time i got one. Not sure how much they would be from Ford but i'd guess more. Lock assembly wasn't available from Ford either when i tried to get one to replace the missing one on mine so that would probabbly be an ebay job. Boot lock and rear door I'd be looking at the gaiter wiring on each of them for those problems. the rear door particually if opened wide does seem on mine to put a lot of strain on the cables. Boot lock problems are common and seem to come back to the wires generally.

If the non-recycle air flow is a bit weak you might want to check the pollen filter - theres details in the faq section on doing that.