BrianH

First step disconnect it again, leave it half hour or so and try again. If that doesn't work i'd check the rear hatch wiring - the righthand gaiter may well have a broken wire party going on there, causing odd behaviour with the locks. it sounds to me like you've activated the test mode on the alarm - possibly by means of a broken wire shorting out rather than deliberately (the bleeps would be the sensor test). It may be worth checking the rest of the doors at the same time if the boot looks ok - though I'd expect to find something wrong there if you haven't been in there already!

Does the run on pump work if its fitted to yours? (feeds the back heater with water from the engine) Usually when the head gasket has failed to allow combustion pressure to escape you either end up with excessive smoke/steam from the exhaust, or water being forced out through weakest point - what happens if you remove the expansion bottle cap and then start/run it (if you get water shooting out of it when started then i'd be suspecting the gasket personally at that point) - obviously remove the cap when its cold/cool though. It may also be worth flushing the cooling system if you've found issues with rusty looking coolant - if you can flush using a hose check that the flow through the radiator is ok at the same time (better yet remove the radiator and flush it separately)

Sounds like a worn out brake pad - is the disc smooth on both sides or are there rough areas? Does the caliper move - is it loose on its bracket? Does the brake actually work if you get someone to push the pedal while you turn the wheel? and does it release when the pedal is released? (siezed or sticking caliper will wear the pads quickly)

Can you see any actual sensor data with the obd scanner you have got? If not try unplugging the maf and driving the car like that - it should revert to a default map having done so, if this improves it then your maf is probabbly dead. The other thing to look at is the o2 sensor reading if you can get visibility of the sensor value - it should flick around between 0 and 1v, if its stuck at one reading or reading nothing then its either the sensor or wiring at fault. Doubtful the wiring you've fixed is the cause unless it happened immediately after fixing the wires?

Remove trim inside the rear where seatbelt goes to on that side. That will give you enough slack to make joins either side of the hinge point. Common issue on these just with various symptoms depends what breaks and what ends up connected together. Think there's some info on the faq though on replacing the cables

Haven't had it out so don't know. It may be worth having a look at the boot fairer wires if you haven't already though as well. They tend to cause all manner of odd issues

I discovered the same thing after buying one of their starters. It's been fine but it's noticably smaller than the one it replaced. Do wonder how long it will last though

Have you replaced wires or just rejoined?

Sounds like you've fallen victim to a cheap clutch if its only done 15000k before failure. Did you get the clutch done or was it prior to your ownership? It might be still under warranty?

The fast ringing sound referred to makes me suspect its the shaft on its way out - either way get the undershield off and looking should tell you one way or the other (if the shaft looks ok then the clutch would seem likely as you've said).

Possibly, might be easier to buy another dimmer first and just plug it in though given the price? (doesn't need to be fitted to test if its the faulty item) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-MK2-HEADLIGHT-DIMMER-SWITCH-2000-2006-FREE-POST-/151913837293 I have had the main light switch on other cars fail - do your tail lights work?? (back when the one on my long since dead Escort died the tail lights as well as the cluster lighting all died down to the switch failing - headlights still worked but nothing else!)

It sounds like it might be the dimmer. Does it change if you move the dimmer about? Might also be the main light switch. Or lots of blown bulbs?

The teeth on some just aren't long enough there's been a few people on here with the problem. There were some reengineered ones done. Motomax I think should match some posts here. If it is the shaft you may be able to see powdery residue near the joint area.

The earlier mk1 had a module under the seat, but that wouldn't be on the mk2 (it used to get flooded on the mk1s) If the key is seeming to pair but the car isn't I'd wonder if its managing to pair with something else or getting confused by something else? It may be worth taking the car somewhere else and retrying it (somewhere preferably with less vehicles about if possible)? Otherwise see if you can get hold of vcds and a lead and see if you can communicate with the locking controller (I think it works ok on my 2.0 mk1 so should be available on the mk2 as well - if you get a response from that, and given that the central locking works i'd be doubtful that the controller is at fault)

The window issue may be down to broken wires - the global open/close also works from the boot lock so this is worth looking at for that reason. water in the gaiters by itself is unlikly to be the issue, but broken/bare wires are a common issue, if there is water there it will also be allowing them to corrode as well. Though you mention now its the remote key (this didn't seem clear before) - its possibly a faulty switch in the key. If you know another galaxy owner with a remote fob try theirs (sync your car to their key) and see if it helps? if so then you know the problem is the key. Though the flooded footwell requires sorting out anyway.

Theres a joint in the wires at the same area (just in front of the passenger seat under the carpet) that can corrode for the same reason. The wiper speed setting will probabbly be water getting inside the motor - the circuit board that controls it is on the bottom of the motor, mine does the same thing when its rained particually heavily. I haven't got round to fixing that yet. The other thing worth looking at is the classic door gaiter wiring issues - particularly the boot one.

Also are you actually getting 12v to the plugs when key is first turned on? (test with someone to help - connect a multimeter between the positive contact on the plug and an earth point or the battery negative post - if your seeing no difference then the glow plug relay would be suspect, you should see battery voltage as difference, easier with someone else to operate the ignition for you)

If you can see it then you might be able to retrieve it using something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLEXIBLE-LONG-24-2Ft-REACH-CLAW-PICK-UP-TOOL-Curve-Bend-Slim-Narrow-GRABBER-/200968029973?hash=item2ecaa0c715:g:fzQAAOxyhTFSQzIP Or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bergen-Long-Flexible-Pick-Up-Tool-Claw-with-Magnet-and-LED-Light-Torch-Magnetic-/301242968927?hash=item46237aeb5f:g:F-MAAOSw-dBTs8PK Otherwise assuming its a mkIII then you need to identify which one you need from here http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=1234579&s_id_model=118&s_code_image=G014913405 http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-1382031-screw-washer/ http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-1382770-screw-washer/ or take a trip to the scrapyard to retrieve a couple would probabbly work out cheaper and quicker (the delivery will be as much as the parts). Dealer may be able to help - if you can find the part numbers from above they may be able to check stock? Or take one of the others out and take it to an auto factors and see if they can find something suitable?

The other possibility is the switches in the lock that do the global opening particularly if yours isn't on remote locking and your using the key to unlock it. Broken wires in the boot are a good bet though.

That should be fine (the lead) as it says vcds in the description. The phone side won't help much as vcds only exists in a pc program as far as i know. On the original question (about the computer bit) it might be easier to take a photo of the dashboard and post it here so others can see what you have got.

Mk1 - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-FORD-GALAXY-GHIA-X-AUTOMATIC-7-Seater-116302-miles-Very-Clean-/231760794891 Mk2 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Galaxy-Tdi-Ghia-2005-6-Speed-7-Seater-/111829809455 Picking the first two ones with the front visible off ebay - headlights should let you know. And what Gregers says above - does it ever start or fail to start completely? Also if you have another key does that work?

Don't know on the climate control question as mine doesn't have it to compare. Out of the bits you've replaced have you discovered the source of the burning smell?

It might be an idea to have a look with VCDS for any fault codes if you haven't already first - leads can be picked up fairly cheaply off ebay that are suitable for this, You should also be able to monitor what the ecu is measuring if there isn't anything being logged as a fault. I don't have a diagram of the pinouts, and doubt anyone else has as you've had no other responses yet either.

Theres a bunch of wires in the passenger footwell area that run near the door - have a check that these haven't shorted out in some way, also any of the other sections of wire near the resistor pack. You should be able to put 12v across the fan and see it spin up, the resistor pack drops the current according to the setting selected to control the speed. If you've got easy access to the scrapyard it may be worth trying the selector switch?