BrianH

Depends on your model - I think its 10 degrees on the mk2, 5 degrees on the mk1. Think you've got a mk2 from whats been said about the aux pump? Manky connector isn't going to help, though you'd need one of the aux heater wizards on here to know whats going on with it if its not that. The connector has been problematic in the past, I think I've seen people post about having to fix it (bypassing the connector with soldered connections seems to come to mind) This might explain your odd error codes if the connections to it are dodgy.

suggests to me either the intake is blocked, or the flaps aren't being set in the right position. You could remove the inside panel and have a look? I think you can access the hoses from there as well, not sure offhand without looking. Not sure on the vagcom errors, Are you using vagcom or vcds lite? I'd try clearing them and see if they come back, sounds like they are errors that don't have a proper definition, but if your using vagcom it may be fixed by using the more upto date vcds instead.

first thing then check the hoses under the car towards the rear heater - if these are hot, then its probably a flap inside the heater unit in the wrong position (either its broken, come away from the operating mechanism, or been set to the wrong position on the controls). Given the aux heater you say fires up, this would suggest its not water related more likely related to the flaps ending up in the wrong position. There isn't any pollen filters on the back heater, so that won't be the issue. It might be worth taking the rear cover off and having a look at whats going on there - does the sound of the motor change when you alter the rear controls or does it seem always on the same setting?

If your getting no water returned to the header tank thats usually a sign of the water pump impeller coming off its spindle (the one driven by the engine, not the run on pump). Theres been various posts about this, i think you can test this by removing something and poking the impeller with a screwdriver (it shouldn't move - if it does then its not connected to the spindle inside and needs to be replaced - various posts here from others who've had it happen). Though I'd expect to see some signs of overheating in this circumstance. You may have ended up tripping out the aux heater if its overheated if your getting nothing in the back, its a case of looking at vcds to reset it/check whats wrong. The other possibility is that the thermostat is stuck open allowing flow through the radiator at all times - you'd usually notice this by it being cold only when your moving through traffic, with rising temp when stationary. Any idea where the water that went missing appeared to go to?

I don't know what the wire colours relate to offhand, but if one is broken then fixing it would be a good idea if possible. Replacing the broken wire with a new bit of wire is recommended though.

You will have more luck in the MK3 area than here with that - hopefully someone will move it across

Ah ok. Try removing the connector to the door lock on the boot.

Removing the bulb or switching it off should stop it draining the battery. Might be an idea to at least put some tape round the wires until you get them repaired properly

Broken wires - Front drivers side door gaiter between door and body to start with. The other possibility for the rear windows is if you have a rear window lockout switch (mine doesn't have rear electric windows) that its either not plugged it properly, not switched to the right position, or the wires feeding it are broken or the switch just does not work.

dont know for sure, but would suspect its on the door latch as i don't recall seeing it elsewhere. The likly area for the actual fault is the righthand boot gaiter - broken wires a good bet.

If you want someone to take it out on them Homauto has been spamming again! http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/27163-ford-focus-gt1544v-turbocharger/

Try a new bulb on the passenger side first. While it's out check the contacts aren't rusty. If they are clean them up and try agaon

Yep fair point. Wait and see what he says

If its not logging any fault codes it won't bring the light on - If someone else with a petrol mk2 can confirm the light may come on when you turn ignition on but don't start the engine straight away - if so this should allow you to try the same on yours to confirm. Otherwise disconnect something (MAF is a good bet as its easy to get to) and that should log a code and bring the light on. You may want to have a means of clearing codes beforehand though. Only thing i can think has caused the failure in the way you describe is if part of the ceramic had broken off the cat and become lodged in the exit pipe from the cat - I've only known that to happen once to me, and that was the result of the car misfiring due to a combination of problems, the main one being a o2 sensor that wasn't reading correctly.

For the amount of work involved check the rear gaiter - Its a known failure point for all sorts of faults due to design and the (poor) quality of the cable used on the Galaxy. You only need to look through the forum to realise its one of the most common failures. Given that its the Tail light (or started as the tail light and then moved onto the brake light - i'd assume its a typo but possible its changed?) and the number plate lights will be on at the same time, likely on the same circuit as well and these are on the boot it seems reasonable to check the boot (its easier for someone to look for a broken wire first - these commonly will either snap the wires, or pieces of the insulation break off allowing them to short together. Its only a case of pulling the gaiter away from the body to look.

And thinking about it the brake light will be as the eye level brake light is there as well. Though without looking at wiring diagram not sure how wires run. Anyway it's easy to have a look and decide.

Not 100% sure it is. The tail lights and number plate lights are on at the same time though. Number plate is obviously on the boot door. Given that someone else recently had their dash lights knocked out by the same thing and it's a known common failure point it makes sense to start there though

No clear cover on mine. Not sure if mk2 is different. Take a photo if your able to?

The right-hand side gaiter on the boot. It will pull apart fairly easy. Your looking for damaged or broken wires

The common issue with the wiring is the wires in the gaiter on the boot break (either snap, or the insulation breaks off). Off hand not sure if both sides have the same connector, but you could try swapping them from one side to the other and see if the fault follows it? The cluster bits are fairly simple though - unless the track is broken or corroded I'd expect it to work. It may be worth a close look at the other side - some problems appear to be down to the wrong type of bulb being installed as well. I'd suspect (without looking at the circuit diagram) that the number plate lights are on the same circuit hence would suspect the righthand gaiter on the boot to be the source of the problem if its not actually the cluster. If it is there though there is instructions in the faq section on replacing it, and it is DIY able!

Sounds like the best plan you've got there - get someone to take a look with the tools for the job to have a look at it. If the sensors look ok i'd be looking to either swap the coil pack or the plugs (even new ones occasionally go wrong!)

Yes on sorting the car before mounting the cat - the car will destroy the cat if you don't resolve the problem first. If you can find a suitable bluetooth obd module and have an android phone the torque app will allow you to monitor the o2 sensor directly as well as maf etc - Otherwise you need to get a multimeter onto the signal wire and see what its doing. The bluetooth module will need to support the right protocol - SAE J1850 PWM (41.6 kbaud) I think is the right one - few people have had issues finding an adaptor that actually works with this (me included - i've got one of the hhobd ones that does work, and another that does not despite them being nearly identical). It might be worth running it into one of the independent motor factors and seeing if they can have a look what they think might be the cause - No guarantee they will be able to help, but if you don't ask you won't know!

Thinking about it I'm thinking of booser heater overheating errors, so the back pump probabbly not relevent to this, though sounds like an issue there as well (maybe airlocked?) I had similar issues on mine with the rusty coolant (think mine was someone elses previous attempts at radweld to repair mystery leaks - which I've fixed now apart from a slight leak from the heater matrix) - most of my issues with overpressure went away after flushing though (and replacing radiator as it was leaking due to corrosion at both ends) I'd try flushing it out with a hose till it runs clear if you haven't already, otherwise as said above its looking like a head gasket, so either get a compression test done to confirm, or strip it apart and see if you can find anything/replace the gasket

Doubtful the ecu is faulty - can you monitor the pre cat o2 sensor output with the engine running (it should flick about - I've had one fail and not throw up an error code despite being stuck at 0.35v). And no a faulty coil pack may have only partially failed - they usually start playing up when under load. Given further use your likely to find it gets worse though. Do you have the coil packs on the top of the rocker cover on yours? I've had engines run (badly) and start with a failed coil pack where only 2 cylinders are working (the other half or other pack was still working ok though) The cat won't be the reason for failure - you need to fix that before you fit it.

I'd agree with that - particularly the first sentence. Best bet would be get a compression test done if possible to do so.