BrianH

Sounds like your unlocking the immobiliser then rather than bypassing it, so that rules that out. But is probably good overall. Don't know what to suggest further at the present time, It might be worth working on the TIS setup though.

Assume this is either a mk1 or mk2 with a flat floor - if so then you should be able to fold the seat back down ontop of the seat so it lies flat, then release the back fixing points to tip it towards the front of the car, then finally remove the whole seat by moving the bar at the front of the seat to release the catches. I'd suspect you have a mk3 though as its fairly obvious how you do it on the earlier cars, What year is the car?

So does the led (assuming you've fitted one there flash? Light up? Flash slowly or quickly? Do nothing?

Yes, I have noted this and currently the cooling system at my engine test trolley emulates Galaxy's cooling system very closely, meaning I'm using the original Galaxy thermostat mounted to the radiator pipe. I will locate the thermostat somewhere else than the end of the head, even it would be possible to locate it there as well, but from maintenance point of view that would be a very inconvenient location. Likely I will create a new thermostat housing that will be bolted in place of the current empty housing at the back of the head which brings the thermostat somewhere nearby the intake manifold, or then using pipes to do this. But I think it would be better fit for Sierra to have the thermostat at the intake manifold side somehow even taking the coolant flow from the back of the head. I will be updating this thread at least as long as I find out how to sort out the electronics. After that maybe I can sometimes post an update here as well, but basically you can follow my progress from Instagram. About getting TIS to run: Most likely I will manage since I'm IT professional as my daily work. ;-) But let's see in which order I will be working on this topic/issue. If you've got an old spare machine running a 32 bit os it should just install. I think it dates from the days of win 9x (don't think looking at the models listed on mine that it covers much beyond the mk2 galaxy). Otherwise vmware player or hyperv with an xp machine should work ok.

Not at all - it gives a bit of variety to the usual mix of broken wires and other common Galaxy issues that crop up here. The 2.0 i've got I believe is very close to the engine used in the Sierra - 2.0 Dohc 8v lump. Thats still going at 230k miles, but does need some attention at this point. I've got it back tonight now though!. Let us know how you get on anyway, hopefully you will get it sorted one way or another (Info on the pats system I'd suspect is what you could really do with, TIS may be the way to go if you can find something to run it on. I've got it running in an XP VM also with Microcat as it doesn't like 64 bit windows and i doubt it would run too well on windows 10 either).

This also looks possible - http://www.justanswer.com/uk-ford/1x630-galaxy-plate-the-rear-door-hatch-no-longer-opens-wiring.html Look at connection m25 - the diagrams aren't the best, i'd assume its the ecu there for the central locking, it may not quite match yours though.

This is the same diagram like Mk1 Haynes has (but this is with colors): http://docslide.us/download/link/3984-galaxypdf I do have Haynes manual for Mk1 Galaxy. This diagram has only two diodes that it mentions, but at least by looking the connections they are not looking like light emitting diodes to me... Unfortunately Haynes diagram has things missing related to ECU, PATS and central junction box, at least when it is about these late Mk1 models. I tried today to search similar diagram for Mk2 Galaxy, but looks to be very hard thing to find... Maybe I need to get Ford TIS, since it might include more complete wiring diagram. I've got tis, but don't find it particually helpful. now you say i think Haynes deliberately don't publish any of the pats info hence its like it doesn't exist in the manual. This might help in conjunction with what you posted above Drivers door connector pinout http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy/drivers-door-wire-loom-connector/#sthash.fFvG1GcM.dpbs This should show all the wires going to the door - if you use your posted pages above you should be able to narrow down your options by removing the ones related to Central locking Windows Heated/electric mirrors Door speakers This shouldn't leave many options left then, the wires have to pass through this point so should give you a starting point with any luck. Out of interest are you just experimenting, or do you have a use for the engine in some other manner?

I will have a look in the haynes manual once I have my Galaxy back (my brother is currently borrowing it, and its in the seat pocket I think) to see if the wiring diagram gives any clues. Suspected that might be a problem.

I'm thinking rather than dodgy relay that its just not connected at all, or at least not providing the signal needed to allow communication. I could definitely get the engine to crank in this state, though it wouldn't start. Mine was/is the 2.0l though i don't think that will come into it much anyway. It might be worth pulling the relay (its on the 2nd level of the fusebox, but at least you won't have the usual job of pulling the fusebox out to get to it!) and checking the joints inside it - they just go dry and maybe moving it about has caused the problem. The naming of the relay varies, and is usually quite vague as to what it actually does anyway (i seem to remember power control relay being used at some point - absolutely meaningless description as they all control power!) I doubt its anything with your interface, easiest way to prove is to put it on another vehicle to test it. Any older Ford should be fine for this purpose Only other thought is can you hook up the door led in some way (the one on the drivers door card) and see what its doing? Rapid flashing would indicate some sort of immobiliser issue, likely relay 30 usually, though could be down to a missing component in your case obviously?

Can't find a post directly about it, but if you can get a replacement fitting then solder it that should help, You need to remove the connection and have a look at the box underneath to check its not damaged. I think from those that have had to do it they had to use a blowtorch for the soldering, though a soldering gun should work (iron won't be able to put down enough heat quickly enough into the joint properly)

Yep thats the same issue, you might have caught it in time. The general repair method is to replace the crimped connector, soldering it in place to improve the connection. Will see if i can find a post on here about it

Check the link to the fusebox from the alternator - some of the mk2's start melting the box due to a bad crimp on the cable. You should be able to find info seraching for meltdown on here about it.

I can tell you this much that may or may not help, If you have the relay 30 issue (bad solder joints in the relay marked 30 causing the immobiliser to fail to deactivate) that at the times you have the failure to start, you will also have no communication with the OBD interface. I know that from when I first had my Galaxy before I found the cause of the starting issue. And ditto with the interfaces that say they are j1850 compatible when they aren't - I've got two of "the same" interface - one works, other does not. Though reading your post suggests it did work before removal.

Do the rear ones work? If not would suspect the motor a likely cause, though could be blown fuse causing it. Can you hear the motor running when you pull the lever? If so then must be a plumbing issue, either a kinked pipe or break in there somewhere, leaking washer fluid should make it easy to find if that.

Changing the theme has stopped this - lower lefthand end of the page if anyone else struggling with this.

Done a bit more digging - looks like its down to a skin of some sort used on the board. - another board here with same issue linked below. Suspect its something the admins will have to look at? http://www.njwoodsandwater.com/topic/12433-ieedge-popup-for-userpassword-to-virteqcom/

Can anyone provide an answer of what this is about - getting this message on visiting the forum on every page, not seen it come up anywhere else?

You might get more luck in the mk3 area - the mk2 is the 2000-2006 models with the VW chassis. No idea otherwise. Sorry

Somewhere on the inlet mainfold near to the throttle body. I don't have the v6 so can't tell you more than that offhand, but you should be able to trace it (it will have wires onto it)

Or the boot - unlocking mine unlocks the rest of the doors. Its either one of the front doors or the boot wiring causing it. Suggest the OP has a look as shorting electrics aren't something best ignored.

I'd be starting by scanning with VCDS if you have a lead, if you don't have one they can be picked up off ebay cheaply enough to make it worthwhile (cheaper than running it into a garage for diagnosics and you have the lead again if you have further problems). The flashing coil light suggests something is being detected, it usually flashes for a faulty brake light switch though doubt thats the cause here.

Its on one of the back levels of the fusebox, you need to remove the outer door and cover then drop fusebox down from its bracket to access it. Its a relay your looking for, which if its original will have a large number 30 printed onto it.

The brake caliper if loose can make a noise very much like a failed drop link (it can be loose on the bracket that attaches it to the hub), no idea on the play issue. Also you've changed the ends, its possible to have worn tie rods/track rods as well, these are a seperate bit that can be replaced if so. These aren't quite so easy to test by yourself, best to get someone on the opposite wheel to brace against and see if it moves, though wouldn't expect it to make much of a noise at this.

Clogged idle control valve a possibility. May help to clean it. Please fix your caps lock key while your there!

VCDS lite and a lead from ebay your best bet then, as long as you have a laptop you can use in the car to do it of course. Any vag-com lead off ebay should be fine, and you should be able to find several under a Tenner.