chromedome

Just a thought. If you have headlight washers fitted and no headlight levelling knob on the dash then they are most likely factory fit and cannot be changed to normal bulbs. If you have no headlight washers and have a levelling knob then they are after market fits.

Have you got factory fit HID headlights or has someone put an after market HID kit on? If they are after market you should be able to remove them and fit standard lamps.

I am getting an intermittent message telling me to check the coolant level. I have no leaks and the coolant level is ok, however, I seem to remember that this can be caused by a dirty sensor in the bottom of the expansion bottle. The thing I can't remember is how to clean it. Can someone out there please tell me how. Thanks

With the glove box removed you will see the resistor pack on the side of the heater assembly, usually green or red in colour. As you have climate control the resistor pack is also known as the hedgehog.

Just something else to think about, is it the car horn or the alarm horn?

Is your car petrol? Cruise Control?

I believe they are a common bulb on the MK1. Could be worth swapping a bulb just to make sure it's nothing more.

Common cause is blocked drain pipes from the sun roof. Net curtain wire is ideal for clearing any blockages.

Net curtain wire is ideal for clearing any blockage in the two pipes at the sun roof. I believe these pipes drain into the A pillars so there could be a problem there. A sign that these are blocked is damp patches on the roof lining.

Just to clarrify my point earlier. A bad connection causes more current to flow. More current equals more heat so the failure is caused both both excess current and heat. My house fuse board nearly caught alight because the feed to the electric cooker became loose and the cable started burning back. I think you are right to try and replace the brittle cable.

The output voltage sounds about right. If all the electrical connections were loose then extra current would have been drawn and this may be why the fuse blew.

I would suspect the actual light switch or a relay. Perhaps someone on the forum can confirm if a relay is used and if so what number it is.

Common fault. It will most likely be the resistor pack. Remove the glove box and you will see it fixed to the side of the heater assembly. I think coloured green or red.

Remove the brake light bulbs and check that the two elements are not touching. This is quite common and can result in interaction with your other lights.

Make sure all connections, especially the earth, are clean. A bad connection to earth will draw more current through the bulb.

Is the new battery the correct one? There has been some discussion on this forum about batteries. The Galaxy should have a Calcium (CA) type battery IIRC.

I think tyre pressures are manufacturer specific. When I had Dunlops I ran at 41. I'm now running Michelin Pilot at 38 and have near perfect wear across the whole tyre.

It could be worth a ATF fluid change first as it depreciates over time. You can do a search on how to do this but from what I've read it has to be done at certain temperatures, etc so may be worth going to a garage you trust.

These are very good and legal http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk/philips-xtreme...=37&cat2=73

Is the oil to VW505.01 or higher specification? For PD engines this is a must.

The tools only cost about

If I've done right you should see a document attached. Yes, worked. front_bumber.php.pdf

I'm sure I've read somewhere on this forum over the years that the spark plug caps are difficult to remove and some tool was needed, maybe it's the V6. I've given and received a lot of advice on this forum over time and the comments just struck as a low blow, however, I've now calmed down. Keep up the good work everybody.

I'll keep my mouth shut in future, just trying to help.

I think you need a special tool to get the plug leads off. No doubt someone with more knowledge than me will put you right.