SilverBeast

The only whites I have seen in wiring diagrams so far have been for heated mirrors/rear screen and tended to be outputs rather than inputs and seems to be fed from F51 (20A). If it's this it should go live if you turn on rear heated window

There seems to be a feed from F100 (3A) in the Battery Junction Box but that says Red/Black and also feeds from the CJB - Central Junction Box (Fuse Box where module is located). It isn't clear module does what on the diagram to me. Interior lighting is from F55 (5A) in CJB Indicators and hazards seem to feed from F52 (20A) in CJB Have you had the rear washer leaking into the passenger footwell. There is a junction for earths in there (under plastic trim between seat and innser sill) that is just twisted together and has been known to corrode and cause all sorts of issues, though I thing hey are green

Have you checked the fuses in the Battery Junction Box (under the battery cover at the front. It has three fuses inside as well as the High current fusable links. I believe one of these has a feed to one of the multifunction modules

Just dug out the Windows '98 laptop I run mine on. Not tried on Windows 7 yet. Which module are you talking about, and where is it located?

Sorry you posted while I was writing. Look for a Ford TIS CD on ebay

Shorting in the door wiring will cause the control unit to draw too much current and hopefully blow the fuse before any damage is done, this can also stop other parts of the electical system working of they share a common fuse. If you check the fuse that supplies the control unit (if you haven't already) you may find it blown. If you find and replace a blown fuse and it blows again you could temporarily disconnect the drivers door wiring at the connection into the body and see if it still blows. If it doesn't your remote should hopefully operate all the other doors, providing evidence that it's the wiring in the drivers door that's at fault.

The power will be from the fuse box by drivers right knee. Sounds like you've blown one of the fuses. Fuse layouts are different for different model years, but it's easy enough to check them with a mulltimeter. With one side of the meter grounded both ends of the fuse should be at +12V with ignition on and engine running. However the fuse will have blown for a reason so even if you replace it and it starts working it is likely it will blow again. As Bob says it is most likely to be the wiring in the gaiters between the body and the doors or tailgate. I'd check all if I were you. Order to check:- (i) Drivers door - as this gets used every time you drive the car (ii) Tailgate - as this gets bent most (iii) Front passenger door (iv) Rear passenger doors

That'll probably do it, it's also seems to be called the hub bolt or hub centre driveshaft bolt. I'd be tempted to go to a Ford/VW/Seat dealer and get one there. I understand that VW/Seat are usually cheaper. The ones I got with my cheap J&R driveshaft (that I believe will need replacing again soon!!) were a allen/hex drive rather than a more traditional "bolt". There is a guide for replacement here which includes torque settings (150Nm then turn 90degrees) I needed a long breaker bar to get close to achieving this. This may be different for other models.

Did you replace the centre bolt? As above it's a stretch bolt so should be replaced every time it's removed. It's a torque up then turn through 90degrees jobby.

Not according to the authors website (Ross Tech) even when using virtualisation.

Flashing on startup indicates it has detected a fault. There will be a fault recorded in the system. I suggest you get a VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE lead (about £5 on eBay) and scan with the free software. It will more than pay for itself with this and the rest of the vehicle electronics (including the engine). It may be a faulty hi/lo pressure switch or the wiring connection to it. This is situated behind the bumper cover in front of the right front wheel.

Have you got single or "dual" climate control. The dual has vents in the roof lining above the 2nd and 3rd row of seats. Does the Climate Control display flash for a few seconds when you first turn the ignition on< 1050g is for the dual climate control, if they have put this much in on a single climate control vehicle it will be overfilled and I don't think it will work. There should be a label on the top of the front panel (where the front edge of the bonnet closes to cover it) on the left hand side as you look at it that lists both the single and dual capacities, along with how much oil it takes. There is also a "drier" cartridge that can be replaced that removes moisture from the system. However, the mobile air-con guy who did mine says it was the only Galaxy he had ever done where he could get it out without having to replace the whole receiver.

Is this the only dial that does this - I believe the dash can be programmed to sweep the needles when first turned on so someone may have done this. I think It is more likely to be a faulty engine temperature sender. Which diesel enfgine do you have? If you intend to keep the Galaxy (or most other VW's - they built the MKI/IISharan/Galaxy/Alhambra's and the diesel and V6 engines) for any length of time I would definitely by a cheap VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE lead from ebay and download the free software. It makes diagnosis of many electrical/engine issues much simpler and you will find a code for a faulty temp sensor if this is the case. If you add your vehicle details to your "signature" then it is easier for members to help you. Also if you fill in a better location in your profile you may find a local registered members will offer to scan for faults with VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE for you.

Nope it should be running all the time the engines running to circulate water to the rear heater matrix, it doesn't get controlled by any sort of sensor at all. Does your temp guage just go to max when you turn ignition on, then drop to the "cold" position before creeping up as the engine warms up?

The 130 and 150bhp diesels don't run on after engine switch off, only when ignition is on. It puzzled me for a while with mine.

If I recall (as I can't be bothered going outside to check!) the bonnet switch works off a flat on the passenger side bonnet hinge mechanism.

Try a VW or SEAT dealer (if you haven't already) with the 7M2 number as that is probably the VW number. VW probably always made them and both manufactured the Sharan/Alhambra up to 2009.

Or around £80 delivered from Germany on ebay

His sig says its a 2003 so that makes it a MK2. His profile also says MK2 .

It took me a few goes too (linked post is of my manual!) when I had to reprogram mine after changing the batteries.

I've only got the one.......so far! Here (also ebay) looks like it is fully heated (the lines on the back you can see through the fitting are the element). It would be worth contacting the seller to ask before buying though. I'd check you are getting power to it before buying though as I personally would expect it to be the wiring. They prise out, though it does feel as if it's going to break and I can't guarantee yours won't! Also note this is convex (wider field of view behind - eliminates "blind spots better) so cars look further away than they are. I'm not sure if the originals were on the drivers side.As we are in the UK and not the USA they don't etch this message into the glass as they expect people to have common sense!

Some eBay mirrors do look like they have the full element. I know the one I got didn't though, is only a patch about 2" by 1", but I could see that before I fitted it. Better than the one I had broken though as that turned out to be a stick on replacement over the top of the broken original!

You may find a previous owner has replaced broken glass with the none heated versions as they are cheaper, or the eBay version that only heats a small area, instead of the whole glass.

....first time I've heard it called a breakfast cuppa!! :blush: Seriously it's never happened for me on any device on all the years i've been here. I suggest you try a full virus scan and/or a different browser..

Twist quarter turn anti clockwise (as if viewed from back of light). You either need to do it through the hatch inside the inner wheel arch liner, though I find it easier to take the whole headlight out.