dave_m

it is most likely to be either rear washer pipe or the scuttle drains, do a search and you will find many posts which will help you. This thread for the scuttle drains This one for the rear washer pipe

check the wiring between the door and the car I had this on my car where it would not unlock the door. By the sounds of things it is an electrical fault if it is flattening the battery and the reason you cannot open the door is because it is locked If something has fell off you may have to break/Cut the doorcard and get a replacement one from a breakers yard. Don't think you will get it off otherwise

the 2000.75 is the mark II. IThe TIS DVD will cover the mark 1 and most other Ford Models not just the Gal. I would try and get Elsawin as well as this is the version for the VW Sharan and is much more comprehensive and more detailed than TIS. <_< Hope this helps

i think it would be a fail if you don't have sidelight operation with the engine off, you probably will find they will test them with the ignition switched on and won't notice they don't work without ignition

i think originally it had the 3 but has the 5 on now, the main plug is exactly the same.

i have the wrong heater fitted on mine(which was why it never worked) and as stated above it needs a water pump connecting to it otherwise shows an error in the diagnostics and heater won't fire. I originally put a bulb on it but this kept failing, I have now a caravan relay (for fridge etc) connected to it which works a lot better. The type of heater i have has two wiring plugs (the 16 pin? multiplug and a two way one with a purple wire and a brown wire) the two way one is where the pump should connect to and this according to Elsawin sits just infront of the aux heater (you can see the rubber hose bridging the gap in the metal pipes where it would go on the relevant models) However on my Gal the heater will fire and run as soon as you turn on the ignition as i believe it is the one for the Auxilliary Heating system (the other unit needs to see an engine running signal before it will start) so if you do not start the engine straight away then the water does not circulate and it overheats and again shuts down and need resetting. If you add a small electric pump to it to circulate the coolant it could actually heat the coolant without the engine running but i am not sure what this would do to the car battery level although a small pump like the coolant run on pump will not draw a huge amount of current but the answer to your question is Yes you can interchange the heaters, and it works fine as long as you don't sit for too long with the ignition on before starting the engine

mine came from vag-com.co.uk and was delivered quickly I believe they are UK dealers for the ross-tech stuff

one of the fins on my airvents fell of and went down inside the ducting and rattles like mad when the fans are on. Its driving me mad :)

personally i wouldn't dare plug in a cheap ebay lead and risk damaging my car or computer, they will not be made to anywhere near the quality of the ross-tech units. Most of the cheap leads do work fine as mentioned but for how long?? tbh i did consider the cheaper leads for a while as i am not made of money but in the end i purchased the ross-tech Key-Com and its worked a treat and saved me a lot of cash so far, it will probably save you the 150 quid you pay for it the first time you use it and diagnose the problem yourself. Even if you are no good at fixing the car at least you are armed with the information on what potentially is wrong with the car before you take it to the stealer or other repairer. As for the software it is very easy to use and provides warnings before you scan the airbags etc.

alarm won't arm if it senses a problem somewhere, hence LED not lashing, i had a problem where one of the wires between the car and drivers door had snapped off of the plug and it caused all sorts of problems with the central locking and alarm. I have reconnected it and c/l and alarm now works fine

mine is the same, sometimes works sometimes doesn't, i find if i move mine or bang it that starts it up. I think its due to the motor being worn out. replace it and all will be o.k, they are about 80 quid :(

it is just behind where the fuel filter is and it is to the right of the coolant tank it is a cylinder shape with the electrical connector at one end and the water pipes at the other. will try to get a pic tomorow :unsure:

:blink: I'm guilty.............

upon further investigation i have discovered my rear washer pipe has become separated in front of the passenger seat, I think some of this water may have got on to a connector related to the alarm as now I have dried it out a bit it seems to be O.K. This is probably why my parking sensors are playing up as well, as I believe the Controls for this are under the front passenger seat. I have seen the posts on the washer pipe repair and will be doing this later!

My alarm has started going off for no reason. I think on certain car alarms the led flashes in a particular pattern to indicate which type of sensor set it off once you disarm it, does anyone know if this is the case with the Fraud Alarm? Or anything i need to check, I don't think its spiders on the ultrasonic sensors as theres none about in this cold weather. If I cant sort it out is it possible to disable permanently with VAG COM? it went off at 3am this morning neighbours were far from impressed!! :( thanks, dave

I will point out again..... Be very very careful where you mount the 6x9's as there is no room for error there is only really one position where you avoid the internal parts of the tailgate and the number plate recess, The speakers I used are Infinity, the size of the magnets/frames on 6x9's does vary a bit so make sure you check they will fit!! P.S the reason its so dirty is cos the dog decided to jump in a lake the other night then was shaking in the back of the car all the way home, :ph34r:

Here is the picture, the tailgate is a tad dirty at the moment and couldn't be bothered to clean it!

I'd be asking serious questions as to why the exhaust was not mentioned to you during the service and why it was ticked O.K on the service sheet, It proves that someone just ticks all the boxes on there and don't actually check all the listed items :angry:

I didn't strengthen the tailgate trim panel at all although make sure you use the little screw clamp things ( i don't know the proper name) that come with most speakers otherwise you will find after a while of slamming the door shut the screws will work loose and pull out of the thin wood like material that the carpeted bit of the tailgate trim panel is made out of , also its a right nightmare getting the speaker cables through the tailgate and through the rubber grommets into the car. many a swear word could be heard whilst i was doing that, but the improvements in the audio quality made it worthwhile, :angry: I'll take a pic of the 6x9's in my tailgate to give you an idea of where they need to be mounted, I will post it here later

I fitted 6x9's in the tailgate, with amps in the spaces in the floor under the front seats. you can only just fit 6x9's in if your careful of where the recess is where the number plate sits. Sounds excellent though with JVC head unit, 6x9s in tailgate powered by a Sony Amp Standard front speakers, 12" JL Audio Sub Woofer powered by a Kenwood Amp.

You are unlikely to get caught or cause any problems with it, i was merely pointing out the fact that it is illegal, There are actually car stereo's available now with Bluetooth, so it won't be long before this is used to connect devices such as Phones and Ipod's etc via the car stereo. <_<

i agree elsawin is much better than TIS, i have both <_<

It is illegal to both sell and use this type of device in this country. see here

I used the dealer to do the main service on my car, and it ended up costing me a small fortune. Would never let them loose on it again. DIY is the way forward. i have had a few different cars and have to say the MK2 Gal is one of the easiest to DIY service in my opinion. Repairs can be a little more complex but armed with the right tools TIS,Elsawin,ETKA and VAG-COM a lot of things are relatively easy

could be the wiring between the tailgate and the car,i think this is prone to failure where it passes through the rubber grommets