dave_m

i have disposed of the old one, but i am sure it had the bosch part number stamped on the side. VW part no i think is 3D0 965 561 D had a look but the bosch no is round the back and impossible to see but it definately is stamped on there as i can see it in the original sized picture on my pc of the pump it says PAA 12v 0 392 which is the start of the bosch part no. As your pump is faulty anyway, you could take it out and substitute it for a piece of pipe until you get a replacement you can then get the Bosch part no from it and hopefullly source one at a reasonable price

i always thought if you had a claim all your no claims discount were lost? can anyone clear this up????

MM, Its probably the same as the Vauxhall one as it is a BOSCH part. not sure of VW part number. Ford part number is 1307485 old part number 1124940

I think protected no claims is a must really, it only takes some idiot to smash into you and drive off and you lose 65% no claims which is quite a hefty chunk. for the little extra it costs i think its worth it. My ford galaxy is insured with Vauxhall insurance :lol: they make you get it repaired at vauxhall and you have to have a vauxhall courtesy car. but at the end of the day they have given me an outstanding service so far. When you ring them you are straight through to a helpful human being not a machine. none of this press 1 for this 2 for that lark (which I install by the way :lol: ) and holding on the phone for an hour. Also last year someone crashed into the back of my car and smashed the bumper,tailgate and damaged my towbar 4 days before i was due to go away in my caravan. I explained this to my insurance company who got my car in the repairers the same day, and had it back to me immaculately clean and repaired within 3 days. They aren't the cheapest but I am reluctant to change because of the good service i have received.

The pump is situated on the bulkhead kind of behind the fuel filter. I tried to overhaul mine but the motor is unserviceable I dismantled the motor casing to have a look In my case it was the brushes in the motor which had worn out. The part attached to the motor with the impeller in it that the coolant flows through comes apart ok and goes back together fine the motor unfortunately doesn't. I paid about

Greg, you can only put multiple photo's in the same post if you use the IMG button which then links to the pictures elsewhere on the internet rather than uploading them to the forum server from your PC. If you right click the images and select properties it will show you the URL at which the picture is held. Also doing it this way the images stay permanently whereas they are deleted from the forum server after a while. Some ISP's give you some webspace with your internet account or there are a few other sites which will give you free webspace or you could upload the images to something like photobucket http://www.photobucket.com/ which is free and specifically designed for hosting images for message boards and ebay and the like. an example is these pictures which are held in my company webspace at www.icstele.com http://www.icstele.com/Gal1.JPG and this one http://www.icstele.com/Gal2.JPG and this one http://www.icstele.com/Gal3.JPG

For those of us that have ever used a Haynes Manual in attempting home maintenance of a car. For those who have not used a Haynes Manual, these are the books aimed at car-owners who want to fix their own cars and which keep qualified mechanics in paid employment putting things right afterwards. They are chock full of photos, diagrams and step-by-step instructions which are obvious if you are a fully qualified motor mechanic, but which are frighteningly sparse on detail for the average Joe in the street who wants to change a set of spark plugs on a 1981 VW Polo .... Haynes: One spanner rating (simple). Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up? Haynes: Two spanner rating. Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you). Haynes: Three spanner rating (intermediate). Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days and that your AA cover includes Home Start. Haynes: Four spanner rating. Translation: You are seriously considering this aren't you, you pleb! Haynes: Five spanner rating (expert). Translation: OK - but don't expect us to drive it afterwards!!! Translation #2: Don't ever carry your loved ones in it again and don't mention it to your insurance company. Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise. Translation: Clamp with molegrips (adjustable wrench) then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you? Haynes: Should remove easily. Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with a hammer. Haynes: This is a snug fit. Translation: You will skin your knuckles! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: This is a tight fit. Translation: Not a hope in hell matey! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: As described in Chapter 7... Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox. Haynes: Pry... Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into... Haynes: Undo... Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (catering size). Haynes: Ease ... Translation: Apply superhuman strength to ... Haynes: Retain tiny spring... Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly had my eye out"! Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb... Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part and remaining glass shards. Haynes: Lightly... Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly". Haynes: Weekly checks... Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it! Haynes: Routine maintenance... Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be! Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this... Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!! Haynes: Compress... Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "******" repeatedly under your breath. Haynes: Inspect... Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"! Haynes: Carefully... Translation: You are about to cut yourself! Haynes: Retaining nut... Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust. Haynes: Get an assistant... Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know. Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed. Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs. Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Translation: But you swear in different places. Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs... Translation: Snap off... Haynes: Using a suitable drift or pin-punch... Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift! Haynes: Everyday toolkit Translation: Ensure you have an RAC Card & Mobile Phone Haynes: Apply moderate heat... Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat. Translation #2: Heat up until glowing red, if it still doesn't come undone use a hacksaw. Haynes: Apply moderate heat... Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Index Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to do! Haynes: Remove oil filter using an oil filter chain wrench or length of bicycle chain. Translation: Stick a screwdriver through it and beat handle repeatedly with a hammer. Haynes: Replace old gasket with a new one. Translation: I know I've got a tube of Krazy Glue around here somewhere. Haynes: Grease well before refitting. Translation: Spend an hour searching for your tub of grease before chancing upon a bottle of washing-up liquid (dish soap). Wipe some congealed washing up liquid from the dispenser nozzle and use that since it's got a similar texture and will probably get you to Halfords to buy some Castrol grease. Haynes: See illustration for details Translation: None of the illustrations notes will match the pictured exploded, numbered parts. The unit illustrated is from a previous or variant model. The actual location of the unit is never given. The best one I encountered was how to change a brake sensor in a Ford Fiesta Popular Plus. The photo showing the location of the unit failed to mention the crucial detail of whether the item was located in the engine compartment or inside the car ..... and the helpful photo of what the thing looked like didn't give the reader any clues! HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board princ iple. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "F...." HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front wing. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper- and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off. PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 pence part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short :lol: :lol: :)

i would get the head gasket tested, check the coolant for exhaust gases as mine went and i experienced similar problems to yours. I ended up needing a new head

I would have thought if the matrix was blocked you would have no heat from the heaters at all. I think the heaters are going cold because the system is pressurising due to the overheating. when the car had the initial overheating problem did changing the thermostat solve the problem and it has now re-appeared?

just clarify a few things Does the car actually heat up then go cold if it does then... When the "Heating Goes Cold" what does the temp Gauge read. it could be one of the following Could be an air lock, could be a faulty water pump. (unlikely as you have a new one) could be a sticky thermostat provide us with some more details and we'll do our best to help

My TIS covers Cougar 1999-2002 ,Fiesta/Fusion1989 - 2003, Galaxy Mk1+2 1995-2003, KA 1997-2003,Maverick 2001-2003,Mondeo 1997-2003,Puma 1997-2002 Transit + Transit Connect 1995-2003 on wiring diagrams Workshop manual also has Escort 1991-1996

;) here you goWater_Leaks.pdf

if you are losing water, could be the water pump my car had the same problem heaters were doing all sorts of weird stuff hot then cold, red-hot, always cold, and i was losing water, this was at 62k get this checked as the cylinder heads aren't very resilient to overheating hence i had to have a new head. may just be your aux heater but best be on the safe side. Also ford missed the fact the water pump was not working when they done the 60k service even though i pointed out that it lost a bit of water a couple of times.

you can get one of these.............. Engine Block Tester

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/key-matching.html might help you out!

Have a look through this demo all the shareware and unregistered limitations are at the bottom of each page of the demo Ross Tech VAG COM Online Tour Also the cheaper leads may not protect the cars electronics/Management system in the event of a faullt with the PC or Lead.

more likely is they won't fit a new heater at all and charge you 400 quid for a glow plug!

:( :(

you would understand why they disconnect the battery if you accidentally touch a high rated fused supply or direct lead from the battery with a torque wrench which is connected to an earthed bolt at the other end :( B A N G !! frightens you to death and welds your wrench to the terminal. As i found out on an astra some years back

no idea what that could be, very strange, have you tried swapping the bulb for a new one? if not the bulb it could be a tricky one to sort out :huh:

I am in Luton and have VAG-COM and Genuine Ross-Tech Registered Dongle and Laptop, ETKA and ELSAWIN and TIS. I Can help you out if you want :P

does that include labour??

its dead simple, you should be able to do it no problems at all with very basic tools all i used was a pair of long nose mole grips, a philips screwdriver, a 13mm & 10mm socket and thats it. You need some antifreeze to top up as some is lost when you undo the coolant pipes from the pump itself. It took me less than an hour :(

Here's me

Not sure about the red TDi badge. my car is definately a 115 i have had a new tailgate because someone behind me failed to notice i had stopped at a zebra crossing, The bodyshop must have ordered the wrong badge, I will dig out some earlier photos of the car and see if the badge was originally silver!!