dave_m

If your booster heater is not working then a drop in temp will occur when the blowers are on (more noticeable in extremely cold weather). I had a similar problem where as soon as I start moving the temp dropped down to 50. It turned out that the ford mechanic who last worked on the car left out the thermostat. If i sat in traffic temp would creep back up to 90 but as soon as i started to move it would go back down again. now i have fitted a thermostat temp sits at 85-90 and drops a bit lower if i have the blowers on full blast in very cold weather. If i remember correctly the booster heater only helps out until the coolant temp hits 75 degrees. hope this helps :blink:

Get Grease and Oil on your seats, and miss the fact that the water pump has failed, even though they renewed the coolant. I wonder how many items just get ticked off without a check?

if anyones bidding, beware it looks like it has two multiplugs so as far as i am aware will only work on cars with the timer in the roof lining, I have this kind of heater on my car but no timer :blink:

some codes will need to be reset before the heater will attempt to fire up again, whereas some other minor faults reset with an ignition on/off

there is an aux heater on ebay.

Thanks for that :o, by the way where do you get your info like part no's etc is it on elsawin or tis? I have both but cannot seem to find them

I have discovered that the Coolant run on pump is on its way out, if i tap it it starts up but will not start of its own accord, so the internals of the motor must be naffed, has anyone else replaced this and can anyone give me the part number for a replacement, no doubt it will cost a fortune :D ta, dave

:angry: :lol: B) B)

the sensors are ultrasonic transducers( a transmitter and receiver in one) they are cheap to buy as components, not sure of the exact spec on the type used in the parking sensors though, see the link below for details Maplin electronics ultrasonic transducer Can't believe the dealers want 90 quid for a new one!!!! :angry:

Elsawin is the VW Workshop manuals. I have got Ford TIS which is the ford version but the VW one is much more comprehensive and the diagrams are much clearer.

i have gathered so far the following Vehicle type: 7M9 Sharan Year:2001 1 Engine: AUY TD 1896 85 Kw Not sure of the gearbox type its a six speed manual,

Head has definately been replaced, i checked this thoroughly and the date on it is 2004 and the car is a 2001 so the did change it, car is all good now i have fitted a thermostat. i'll see what the service manager has to say about the missing thermostat,

I have just got hold of a copy of elsawin but need some sharan info to feed into the vehicle details. Can anyone help,

the reason i started this topic is because of the poor levels of service I have received from the dealers i have used. the first problem was to do with the cooling system, the car would occasionally lose some coolant and heaters would go cold at idle and heat again when rpm increased. I asked the dealer to check the cooling system when it was serviced and they told me all was o.k. A couple of weeks later it done it again and this time car overheated and i took it back to the dealer again, they replaced the thermostat,checked the waterpump checked the system for leaks and returned the car to me, telling me they think its all sorted. drove it 30 miles home and this time severely overheated right to top of scale. took it back to them they replaced the waterpump as they said this was faulty. got car back and same happened again. They then informed me that the Head Gasket had gone and that the cylinder head was dameged and needed replacing as they cannot skim them. Ended up with a bill for about

vag-com.co.uk I got mine from here, Package A KEY-COM, It works a treat, its paid for itself already with the faults i have diagnosed and rectified myself

it would be nice to get hold of a "correct" wiring diagram as if this is bit is wrong what else may be??

I too have checked TIS wiring and it definately shows N289 being connected to the Booster Heater Control. (N289 is the one near the foglamp) However, this does not affect the booster heater but the one on the wiper linkage which i cannot seem to find on the TIS wiring diagrams definately does. I have confirmed this using Vag Com measuring blocks, whilst shorting out the two sensors. Therefore I can only assume that the wiring diagram on my version of TIS must be incorrect or refer to a different model. :P

Names of dealers and locations would be handy to help people find an honest reliable dealer :)

Left my car running today and monitored coolant temp on Gauge and using VAG COM. Once Temp hit about 87' the rad did start to warm up and then the engine temp rose to 94.5. I fired the fan up by shorting out the contacts on the rad switch and the temperature immediately dropped rapidly and the rad went cool again. My only other question is for anyone who knows whats what, is what temp does the rad fan cut in at, the wiring diagram for the rad switch shows two temps 95 and 102. Tch docs are a bit vague on what temps things should happen at, but in terms of a cold bottom hose after a run in this cold weather i would think this is completely normal.

Be honest here based on any experiences you have had. There must be some good Dealerships out there :rolleyes:

does anyone have or know where I can get some label files for VAG COM that are relevant to the galaxy as I have noticed that several parts on the measuring blocks section display a reading but have no details of what it is for example on the aux heater one there are three that are listed as TEMPERATURE one i think is the burner temperature as this gets up to 300' sometimes i am not sure what the other two are, there are also ons and offs which have no explanation.

I have the Key-Com Interface from ross-tech and use it with the latest release of software from the ross-tech site and it reads the aux heater on address 18 with no problems. I definately suggest purchasing the genuine cable as you can be sure that it has the relevant protection to prevent damage to your cars electronics should something go wrong.

I have upgraded my head unit, the sound quality is not very good from the standard speaker units although with a decent head unit is slightly better than the standard head unit but they will damage quite easily with high powered head units and end up sounding naff.

Theres a couple of questions I have if someone can answer them. 1. what temp does the fan cut in at (Gauge reading & Specs Reading) 2. what temp does the thermostat start to open? 3. what is the normal operating temp of the 1.9 tdi engine the reason i am asking these questions is that when my water pump started to fail there was no indication on the temp gauge that anything was wrong which eventually led to my cylinder head being destroyed. I am paranoid that other problems may cause the same and that i may have to fork out again for a new head as apparently they do not take to well to overheating. my cooling system seems to be working ok its just that the rad does not seem to warm up now i have fitted the thermostat

Fan won't cut in as rad does'nt seem to warm up enough