dave_m

Its only about 40 miles from me, I live in Luton, I'm a Communications Technician I do a lot of work in Northants for the Police.

north wales 2

North Wales

its billing aquadrme in northampton, not the nicest site in the world but they have some good big events on there.

heres one of mine

Yeah all sorted, Did not take long and was easy to change, Removed Scuttle Panel, Fuel Filter and charge cooler Pipe to get at it. thought i'd better sort it cos i don't want to risk any damage to the head. Took the old one apart and the brushes had worn out inside the motor. Still can't get over the price of a new one

yes, it is a good idea to check the thermostat, the dealer never put mine back in and i had similar no heat problems

Module 18 is the Aux Heater, 9 Is Central Electronics. If yours is a Mark One you may not be able to use VAG COM to reset. I seem to recall others having this problem

in damp weather, the surface of the brake discs get a thin layer of rust on them very very quickly, the grinding you hear is probably just this wearing off. ;)

this code Address 09 Multifunkt.Einh 0001 01135 - Interior Monitoring Sensors 35-10 - - - Intermittent relates to the interior alarm sensors on the B Pillars(inbetween front and rear doors). I often get this fault show up but my alarm seems to be working as it should. The two codes are not connnected.

John is right the switch on the dash is a master switch for the panel in the headlining that controls the rear blowers. It does not affect the Aux Heater, in fact user guide says do not use the rear heating until the car has recahed normal operating temp. My jet engine noise starts to wind down as soon as i turn off the ignition then the combustion blower continues to run for up to five minutes after that!

i am sure its 40k and definately a belt

FDS 2000 is not the same as VAG-COM, VAG-COM will do everything you need it to though list and clear fault codes, (lists actual faults as text aswell if you use the ross-tech lead or register the software) allows you to recode modules to enable other features. use measuring blocks to see what data various sensors etc are telling the ECU. VAG COM is a great piece of software and has saved me a fortune!!!!

just ordered one of these as mines packed up totally now

whats needed is for the moderators(if there are any) to post a Sticky subject which stays at the top of the Section entitled "AUX HEATER" with a description "clouds of smoke, jet engine noise, no or poor heater output then hopefully it will point people in the right direction and prevent the same questions being asked time after time. :ph34r:

The one that switches on the aux heater at below 5 degrees is located behind the scuttle panel under one of the wiper linkages see image below. as seatkid says you can bridge this with a fuse to test it out. hope this helps

see below for air intake temp and pressure sensor, This is what the fault code will relate to (nothing to do with aux heater) I got this info from Elsawin. It was the only component called intake temp sensor so i think this is the one you are after.

i had a loose vacuum pipe which had supposedly been checked thoroughly by the dealer. Found it myself after about 5 mins

Aux heater is controlled by its own temp sensor, The air intake sensor measures the temperature of the inducted air flowing into the engine, still would get this replaced though if it is faulty as i think it will be affecting the way your engine runs and will be using default values and your engine won't be running at the optimum efficiency see the aux heater post for more advice on why your aux heater is not working! :)

it is possible i have done it, the bottom bolt is a bugger to get out, i think the bolts are Hex(allen) you can just about get a hex key in there.

definately on left hand side, 2 hex or 10mm bolts not 3 torx Quite an easy job to do just a bit awkward to get at. mines a 51 plate TDi, Just follow the big rad hose on the left of the radiator and you will find it :D

its just behind and to the right of the alternator, and is quite awkward to get off without removing the alternator. You can see the bottom Rad hose coming from it. The part you describe sounds like it to me!!

See this post, you can overhaul the heater fairly easily, i wouldn't say you need to replace it

mine smokes sometimes but not constantly, i find its worse if it hasn't run for a few days then you get a thick cloud of white smoke when it fires up. I occasionally get a bit of smoke with a very strong diesel smell whilst the heater is winding down after a short journey Unless it starts billowing smoke constantly i wouldn't worry about it too much, Just be glad its working :)

Could be an immobiliser issue On a Tdi the immobiliser will let the car start but then it dies straight away,not sure on a petrol if it is the same