Steve S.

Found replacement. S.

Hi Orbis, It's basically a photodiode which converts the change in sunlight intensity into a (variable) electric current then transmitted to the A/C control module.Works in conjunction with other sensors i.e.cabin temp. sensor and ambient (outside) temp. sensor. I suspect all three are only present in the fully automatic A/C equipped cars not the manual only ones. I've no idea whether mine actually worked before it disappeared but I need to cover the hole in my dash!!!! Best regards, Steve.

Hi All, Following otherwise successful heater matrix swap, this item has gone walkabout.looked everywhere! Anyone got one spare? It's the flat one, size of a thumbnail, fits flush with dash close to front windshield. for a mk 1 galaxy. Steve S.

Hi folks, Long time no post! Still got my Galaxy Ultima 2.8 but has been off road for weeks with slipping auto box ....again! I'm getting it fixed...again! but I'm thinking of fitting a tranny oil cooler (air cooled) instead of the water cooled jobbie as I tow a caravan, the doing of which seems invariably to lead to the box failing.Has anyone had experience of these and can suggest a suitable make, model, size,source, price etc and of course best place to fit it on the job? Regards to all, Steve S.

Hi All, I've just spent a happy couple of hours investigating my cruise control on my Galaxy(2.8 V6 1997)It's not worked for a few months and I felt this was the time! Anyway I'm basically checking the switch functioning as per the Bentley manual using an AVO meter.It all checks out switchwise but the vacuum pump won't run on the car(it does on the bench connected direct to a 12v battery.)I notice however that my AVO reads only 5volts on all the tests, eg the supply to the c/c unit multiplug is 5v as are all the other readings.If I test a footwell bulb for eg it is a good 11.8v.It is only 5v at the pump multiplug also.Anyone explain why this is the case or am I missing something basic? Any help greatly appreciated as usual. Regards, Steve.

Steve S. MK 1 Galaxy V6 2.8 1997 auto gearbox or casing working or otherwise.(needed for rebuild)

Hi, Anyone got an auto box for my Galaxy,working or otherwise, (2.8 V6 1997) needed for a rebuild.Mine overheated something dreadful and gear-box chap doesn't want to use it as casing may well be warped.Had a lot of trouble with this lately...last repair lasted barely a week,so off the road till one shows up! Regards, Steve S.

Hi Folks, Had the Galaxy(V6 MK1)regassed last week as the old display was flashing and, low and behold it's flashing again today. So much for the ozone layer! Anyway I've had a cursory look around and found a lot of greeny/yellow oily gunge on the front pipe that connects the dryer/receiver with the lhs front of the condenser.I suspect a leak here? Does anyone know whether this pipe is in sections ie it is a part metal, part rubber tube along its length or whether the whole lot needs replacing as a unit? Any ideas about costs...I suspect lots! I feel an e-bay trawl coming on! Regards, Steve S. ps My auto box problem of a month or so back turned out to be forward clutch drum that had disintegrated..cost about

Hi one and all, Not posted for a long time but keep "hovering"...always interesting stuff going on!In many respects the Galaxy has been behaving itself remarkably well with nothing major going wrong....well until yesterday when myself, plus SWMBO and her sister set off for a pub lunch in said vehicle only to be thwarted after a mere 200 yards of travel!Having stopped for a zebra crossing, on attempting to pull away no forward motion was forthcoming, all revs and smells.We managed to roll out of the way and, sure enough, no forward drive in D 3,2,or 1. Reverse was fine,but although tempted by the lure of pie and pint the practicallity of driving 3 miles in reverse proved too difficult to contemplate!Interestingly reverse motion was available in 1 also..I don't remember this always being the case!Anyway to cut a long story short, the AA was summonsed,and we were duly towed home.The AA chap had a good look around but could't find anything out of the ordinary (leaks,loose wires/cables etc)so the Galaxy resides on the drive until the local Auto specialist can get to it .(He's very busy at the moment)otherwise we would have got a tow straight there.) Now would anyone like to suggest what the fault/s are? There was no hint prior to this that anything was failing with the box...no noises, judders, smells, leaks,slippage,etc. It just well stopped!The box was totally reconned in 2007 and has only done 19K miles since! I notice "sagafantasia" has had similar problems...commiserations.Try contacting staautogearbox.co.uk they do a free online diagnostic service which might help you.They suggested it might be selector cable connections in my case..we'll have to wait and see!I just hope it's something simple(and cheap)but it never is ,is it? Best regards, Steve S.

Hi, Have you checked to see if your brake lights come on when you press the pedal? If not, is likely to be the switch under the the brake pedal. (If you have cruise/control don't confuse this switch, also under brake pedal but has rubber tube connected) Steve.

Dear Jamesey, I see you're in Chesterfield? The best auto specialist near you is Eddie Rose in Mansfield, a real genuine bloke.His number is 01623 624741. Regards, Steve.

how much is a recon box??fitted

Hi gregers, I examined the wiring when I swapped it from each door, even re-taped it and sprayed with silicone! The locks worked in the old door, so it's unlikely both sets of wires have simultaneously developed a fault. Also, as I said in the post, you get all the whirrings and clicks from all five lock mechanisms as normal but only the the "new" doors don't lock. Quite strange really! Steve S.

Hi one and all, Hope you are all well and your Galaxies are giving you more pleasure than grief! I've just completed a door swap, well two actually. The original passenger side doors were far from perfect, front had rotted at the bottom ,and the rear had a p**s poor repair done at some stage in a previous life. I got two s/h doors in VG condition for

Hi, I don't know whether the experience I had with my ABS light staying on will be helpful or not. I have the 2.8 V6 so I'm not sure whether the system is similar to your 2.0. As you do, I suspected the speed sensors,which I unscrewed and cleaned to no avail.Anyway , to cut a long story short, I discovered a break in the sender wire from one of the rear speed sensors. This was up , underneath the car behind the middle exhaust box where you can't see it, on a bend, before it disapears thro' a grommet and then under the carpet to the main J. box on the bulkhead next to the battery. This wire had become brittle with age and extremes of heat. (mines an "R" reg) and just broke. I basically had to identify wires of the large multi plug and then just use a meter to test for continuity with a loop of spare wire back to complete the circuit. I mended it with a connector block and waterproof tape. Still ok after 2 years! Cheers, Steve S.

Hi Herts, Sorry for asking a daft question, but you've not confused this dash light with one of the low temp/frost warning lights? Sorry!!! Steve.

Hi Mike, Sorry to here about your c/c troubles..I know it can be very frustrating, having spent hours, no days, trying to sort it out on my own car.I can certainly recommend the chap I told Burky about. If you e-mail him, he will send you a self diagnostic chart to fill in...(you will need a multimeter) and that will tell him whether or not the control module is at fault. You can then sent it to him for repair...a lot cheaper than a new one! Good luck with it, Steve S.

Hi Burky, Looks like the age old problem...faulty cruise control ecu module. Found behind air/con rad/cass facia l.h.s. Remove these and surrounds to get to it, and also remove glove box and surround to ease it out. Then get in touch with www.tempomat.tk/ in the Netherlands, Speak to a chap called Ad..or e-mail him. Very helpful. Should have a number like 5GA 004 397-11 HELLA stamped on it, about the size of a silver fag packet. They seem to last 8-10 years then start to go wrong! Steve S.

Hi Dypso....., The AYL engine is the 24 valve version of the VW V6. You have most likely the AAA engine which I have. This is the 8 valved VW V6 version.I'm afraid I can't help any further with the radiator however,all you can do is visit your local parts dept and compare the diagrams for each engine's radiator,failing anyone else having the definitive answer. Cheers, Steve S.

This "lump" is technically called the "coolant run-on pump", found I think on V6 motors only. It keeps the coolant flowing after switch off to prevent hotspots etc. I've actually replaced mine with a s/h one as it was seized. Has it made a difference...no idea!

Hi Eupho, Are you looking in the right place for this tensioner? You'll find it below two rubber 3/4 " pipes in the top pulley at 11 0'clock as viewed from the offside wing.As Dysomaniac says you need a M8 threaded bolt to release the tension...screw in to release. When new belt is fitted just unscrew bolt and remove. Tension is taken up automatically. Steve S.

Hi, This procedure has cropped up before in a post originally started by italiastar on sept 6 2005. I've tried the "search" but I can't get to it. The post's title was......Auto "gearstick" Light....in the Tech. section. I eventually got there by searching italiastar and found it 3rd post down. Perhaps one of our computer literate members can link it directly for you? Regards, Steve S.

Hi One and All, Well, after a period of more or less trouble free motoring, I suspect that nasty character "Big Bill" is about to put in an appearance.I left a job today, and with the intention of doing a " three point turn" turned into a street , selected reverse....nothing but revving engine! Fortunately I was able to go round the block forwards and got home ok. Any ideas what has befallen the old warhorse? Forward gears are all selected normally, I tried the reverse when the engine had cooled but still no joy.( AG4 Auto by the way.) I plugged in my Gendan code reader which threw up the following: 028C....Gear monitoring VAG code 00652 463A....Engine control unit blocked VAG code 17978 Needless to say, this doesn't make any sense to me either...anyone? To be fair the box has been playing up lately, a bit of slippage, whistles and squeaks on some up changes, "cattle grid " effect, and a delay in reverse selection (now permanent it would appear!) so it was only a matter of time. I'd been to two auto box specialists for advice and they both said it was knackered or nearly so but would probably last a bit longer than it has. Anyway, I've provisionally booked it in at Eddie Rose (Mansfield) but he can't do it for a week so really I'm stuck for a bit...I wonder how far you can drive without the need to reverse.Actually nowhere in my case, I'm facing the wrong way on the drive..uhmmm! Ah well ,lets know any thoughts that you may have. Regards, Steve S.

Hi Steve, Coincidentally I've had this trouble for some weeks and it was only last week end I decided to investigate further. I have a sunroof so I eliminated that by masking it up and applying the pressure washer. Lo and behold the leak was there. It always seemed to leek in the middle of the screen .yes just behind the clock (which doesn't seem to be the lowest part of the screen) Anyway on closer investigation I found two possibilities. The top rubber channel had contracted leaving an inch gap at the pass. side. I thought the whole rubber channel didn't seem to "grip" the glass like new rubber should. Basically I just cleaned the rubber /glass with thinners, let it dry then ran a thin seam of silicone (clear) in both the glass channel and the metal frame channel.I also siliconed the end gap. So far so good , no leaks to report. Steve S.