Steve S.

Greetings to one and all, I'm at the state where I'd appreciate some hopefully confirmatory advice on this ongoing "investigation" before I end up with the dashboard sitting on the front seats akin to what Vanbursta had going the other day! I've had the car for 18 months now, the c/c has never been reliable...well no surprise there I hear you say!...For example it might work if you drove over a catseye or a pothole on the lhs of the road before setting it, or it might work after a break in a journey. Once working it tended to stay ok until you switched the ignition off, then you had to try again from scratch.During the last 6 months it has ceased to work at all! So far I have......Checked the fuses. Replaced the rubber vacuum pipe to the pump. Replaced the vacuum pump. checked the brake pedal switch (electrical side) and setting sucked the tube ,got movement of the accelerater actuater brake lights working ok All with no improvement. Today I had the column shroud off again (I sprayed contact cleaner on before) and checked the multiplug connecter to the switch, it has 6 wires (whi. blu.red.bla.yel.bro) and discovered (using a bulb to earth) that there was no voltage at any of the pins. Now does this indicate a faulty control module, or something else? Vanbursta ,you've been here before, what do you think? I'm hopeful that this might be the problem and even more hopeful that it is just a loose connection to it...I know it's a lot to hope for..forever the optimist but if bumps in the road caused it to work once, something may have dropped off! Now I've been quoted

Dear Vanbursta, Well I'm bloody glad that my car doesn't look like that.....oh hang on.......!!!!! Cheers, Steve S.

Hi Vanbursta, Try Shaftec, unit 4-5,Cato St,Nechells,Birmingham,B7 4TS. Phone 0121 333 3555, ask for Dean. They were very good to me when I had a problem with my driveshaft recently. Best regards, Steve S.

Hi Darren, Found this chap very helpful, it all depends what he's got in mind. Ken Allen.. Autowreckers Ltd. Tel 0152469278....or 01524822408 (home) Its in Morcambe but he posts. Regards, Steve S.

Dear Vanbursta, Hope your Ultima is in good shape,mine is ok apart from the cruise! Thought I'd join the others in complimenting you on an excellent presentation..A+! I have done this job following the discovery of a water leak which turned out to be the dreaded thermostat housing.I had a bit more room in which to work as I had "peeled off" frontal layers of the car looking for the source of the leak.(Still grateful to Sepulchrave for pointing me in the right direction!) Your fine instructions and photo's would have saved a lot of work had I known what I was looking for! Keep up the good work. Regards Steve S. PS If you don't mind I'll pick your brains about my cruise control problem later when I'm in the mood to spend time in the garage!

Hi Joe, Glad to be of some use! I don't think you need to take the tray or battery out however, things are a bit hazy but I seem to remember access was easier by removing the headlight and front grill but it is possible without. The actual junction is just inboard of a grommet hole in the inner wing and it's just fiddly to get at. My cruise has stopped working even after replacing the said rubber hose with a new length.Before that it worked intermittantly sometimes after driving over a rut in the road or starting off again after say a stop for petrol! Now I don't know whether I used the wrong type of hose or whether the whole system has died! I can here the relay clicking behind the dash but thats as far as it goes.I've checked the vacuum pump and that seems to work off the car but its difficult to know whether it's sucking enough! I've given up for the moment with it but always read the "cruise control " posts for renewed inspiration!!! Anyway, good luck with it. Steve S.

Hi, Well, the other end (of the rubber hose) is connected to a semi rigid white plastic pipe (slide on fit)the end of which is just under the front lhs corner of the battery tray in turn under a bunch of wires. you may need to move things to get to it. Now where it goes after that , I don't know, possibly the pedal area or there is a relay behind the middle of the dash somewhere. I believe that Vanbursta has delved this far he may be able to help some more. Regards Steve S.

Hi Tiny, The post you want showing the photo is by NikpV in reply to a question by rambo. I have no idea how to link the post..my computer skills are zilch but if you search the following...cruise control vacuum pump ..in the technical section .. the post"what is this" should appear and theres your answer hopefully! Regards, Steve S.

Hi, Sounds like no gas in the air con system. The display will flash (15 secs) to inform of this .You will also find that the air con pulley drive wheel/clutch will also not engage.Take it to local air con specialist or have mobile operator come and check it for leaks etc. Cost about

Hi Vanbursta, I often wonder if we are the only two members on here to own Ultimas? Anyone knowing differently feel free to chip in! Regarding your query about retro fitting roof rails..I did this on my Galaxy(see the post suggested) It's straight forward.. the holes are pre-drilled and just have threaded blanking plugs in them.Do one side at a time..ie release one side of the headliner at a time..clean hands!!Have some spare trim clips ready for the pillar trims. I used a junior hacksaw and a stanley knife to cut the rubber gutter strip (on the inside only) Takes about a couple of hours not counting contemplation time! I'm sure there is a post, possibly mine, describing this somewhere.Anyway feel free to p.m. me if you think it'll help. Regards, Steve S.

Hi, Well there's some good bedtime reading there! Anyway I think I've made a bit of progress....Firstly contacted my supplier (Sutton Auto Factors..good firm)told them the problem, and was due to take it back this pm when the wife got in from work.Probably wouldn't get it back by friday at the earliest. Checked Ford as to price of "new " one (

Hi, Well a new day ..new problem! I've removed driveshaft..only 1/2 hour! easier 2nd time around.Well, the circlip remains in place, while the joint has just pulled apart.There's no obvious damage to ball bearings, cage , splines , flanges etc, and being a recon unit it's still under guarantee. However ,I'm a tad reluctant to trust it as obviously whats happened once can happen again! So even if I do get it re-assembled etc. the same might happen once its back on the car.So what do I do?..Get money back? Risk a 2nd rebuild? buy a brand new one?..at what cost?.. anyone know? Advice welcome. Regards Steve S.

Hi one and all, I thought I'd bring you up to date with the saga of this drive-shaft." Oh! Christ no..." I hear you all exclaim. Anyway, the splined bit was a 10mm size, got a 5 piece set from Draper for about

Hi there, There's no reason why it shouldn't although there seems to be plenty of people who have failures! I bought my mk1 without an i/r remote, but eventually got a new one from fordpartsuk, plus a couple of ordinary spares from e-bay.I let my local auto locksmith cut them and also programme them (no extra cost) He sat in the car to do it ,armed with a laptop.He discovered that the red key I had didn't in fact work as a programmer key , so that was useful.I'd go down this route also if it's applicable to you.At least you'll get a working remote or at least not fobbed(no pun intended!)off with a crap excuse why it doesn't work. Regards Steve S.

Hi Martin, I have the doubtful pleasure of owning one of these "exclusive" vehicles..since about April 2005! Evidently they were about

Hi , I would think it unlikely that damage would occur , after all there is a vast second hand tyre market out there depending on (hopefully ) undamaged tyres and also punctured tyres have to come off the rim for repair. It sounds like your bloke can't be arsed! In the end it's your choice. Can you get a new matching tyre to the spare?Probably not worth it , at least you know you've got a dependable spare assuming your carrier isn't rusted up! Regards Steve S.

Hi, Wasn't there a thread some while back about only pre-facelift models having this multiplug to connect to? Just a thought , if this is indeed the case and unless things have changed in your model, it begs the question ...what have you actually connected up to? It might explain why none of your lights work! Do the car lights still work with the lighting board connected/disconnected? Suggests something pretty basic, Regards, Steve S.

Hi, Many thanks to one and all. Tomorrow is another day.. I'll see what I can come up with! Steve S.

Hi again, Thanks once again for all your efforts! Closer and closer!! MM.. it could well be the 10mm size..at least it's given you a bit of childhood activity you'll be breaking out the Meccano and Hornby Dublo next! Who is the maker/supplier of your bit set by the way? Cheers, Steve S.

Hi, back again! Tiny ...there are 12 splines. NikpV...Yes, I've seen them , it's just knowing the correct size.I don't want to fall between two stools as it were..I could try the GSF kit but neither would probably do! I've tried fitting drill bits to gauge the size but it's not an exact science.Also for eg. a Torx T50 bit is a fit but slackish and you wouldn't want to apply any force for fear of stripping it out.The diam. of the T50 is about 9mm, so which XZN bit is it, 8 or 10 and do they do a 9mm? What a dilemma! I'll give Ford and/or VW a ring tomorrow and see if they have the definitive answer.I wonder whose stupid idea it was to use this type of bolt in the first place..we'll probably never know! Regards to all Steve S.

Hmmm.. Well there's a surprise, the young waif behind the counter in Halfords had never heard of splined bits never mind seen one in the shop or anywhere else.I should've taken bets! Steve S.

Hi to one and all, Firstly thanks again for all your contributions. The bolt recess is definitely splined , not a torx nor a hex..I've had a very strong light on the job and I've put my glasses on! I've been looking at some catalogues and the web today and the letters XZN keep cropping up with regard to this type of fitting.A VW site I happened upon also mentions this with ref. to a Golf drive shaft.The post also metioned that GSF do a pair of " xzn spline bits" part no98730 sizes M8 and M12 to do the Golf job. Unfortunately I think the Galaxy spline is somewhere between the two!!!!! nobody so far seems to do a seperate 9 or 10mm size I don't really want to buy a whole set even if I can find a suitable one.Trials and tribulations! I might nip down to the the local Halfords tomorrow .. you never know. Otherwise I'll be phoning round on monday trying to locate something.. obviously it would be helpful knowing what size I'm after! Regards for the time being, Steve S.

Hi (again), MM- thanks for your additional info...to which my previous post won't make a deal of sense to , as I was composing whilst you were sending. Anyway it all helps as I am beginning to see a bit of daylight regarding this job..well hopefully! Can anyone help with the exact name and specification of the tool needed to remove the splined bolts on the drive shaft flange?Would " male 10mm splined 1/2 "drive socket suffice or is it called something entirely different?(I'm guessing at the size) If anyone can suggest shop/supplier/web-site etc where I can run one to earth I'd be grateful. Thanks in anticipation, Steve S.

Hi, Thats what I reckon as well...it was TIS seeming to be contradictory that threw me somewhat.Another thought occurs..and it doesn't say specifically anywhere, and that is, that the outer cv boot will have to come off to get the new inner boot over it???.. as it is not going to pass over that flange? So it begs the question does the inner boot kit come with an extra pair of retaining clips and extre grease? Probably not! (I actually ordered this kit from Fords...my local factor didn't list it ...unfortunately they got me the outer one by mistake. not now due till monday.) Good job it's not urgent! About