Steve S.

Hi Dave , Yes ,they are in fact new bulbs, but the fault was apparent with the old ones. I've looked at the relay(No 128 in my box) but that looks and smells ok besides which if it was faulty I suppose no lights would come on at all? Steve

:P Here's a strange one for you all to think about! My l.h.s. dipped beam keeps blowing fuses, but only after a "good run". The lights don't even have to be switched on.If you change the fuse straight away it will blow with what seems a hefty current. If you wait an hour or two ,or change it next day, all seems well ...at least whilst on the drive, but as soon as you've been travelling a while and happen to switch on the lights, there is the telltale light failure symbol on the dash, and sure enough the fuse has gone again! Has anyone else experienced this intriguing(spelling??) :huh: fault? I'm pretty jarred off with it and besides next doors garden is filling up with blown fuses ! Suggestions as always very welcome. Regards to all, Steve S.

Very much on the same theme..... I noticed that whilst out and about yesterday, there appeared to be a problem with only the rhs of the windscreen demisting, with the other side (exactly 1/2) remaining relatively misted.The question therefore is, whether the heater element is in two seperate halves, with seperate feeds ,fuses, relays etc.and thus a one -sided" failure" as described is possible, (VR6 I notice you said there were two feeds behind the A pillars) or whether I should be looking for another cause of the one-sided misting up, eg blower performance, dampness(pollen filter on this side??) etc. etc.Comments as always most welcome! Regards to all, Steve S.

Hmmmmm..I remember a similar problem occuring in a 5GT turbo I owned in my "Go faster days!" After much investigation, turned out to be a faulty after market alarm (Foxguard..I think) Anyway I dispatched it to a repairers who fixed the innards for about

Hi, I've only done a side at a time when I retro fitted a set of roof-rails.This was pretty straight forward, but if you're going to drop it completely you will require a willing assistant! Tips....I suppose: 1.Clean hands! 2.Have a packet of pillar trim clips handy. 3.When removing seat belt buckle trim covers, prise them from the back to avoid breakage! 4.Take seats out. 5.Work methodically..if that really needs saying! Best of luck! Steve S.

Hi, New bulb and plastic holder (usually blue)is a one piece item.Ref this post by pftc "backlight on digital clock' its gone out" Steve S.

Dear All, I've recently been through a version of this. (See "abs and fault codes" post) Although the code reader showed a speed sensor fault, it turned out to be a double break in the rhs sensor wire between the connector and the grommet just before it enters through the floor pan(about 15" inward of the the lhs back door gap ..non hinge) On extracting the wires, the rhs actually fell in half, being very brittle.I suspect that its condition was the result of running behind, and very close to the exhaust heatshield, as elsewhere the wires are quite flexible. Anyway it's worth bearing in mind, it might be a common fault occuring in older models where the wires have got baked or otherwise degraded. Cheers, Steve S.

Dear All, Well, I followed my own advice in the end! I managed to unearth the multi plug that connects to the abs module(behind the battery&water expansion tank),identified the incoming wires from the wheel speed sensors, and having connected the two wires together at each connector underneath the back axle I stuck the circuit tester on each pair of pins.Sure enough, this identified a non- continuity in the black wire from the rhs sensor. I have temporarily bridged this break by scotch clipping in a wire and running it underneath the car. on connecting everything up (temp) a retest with the fault reader showed fault cured and the dreaded abs light has gone out! Excellent!!.Tomorrow I will look at the best way to do a more permanent job but the wire re-route looks fairly time consuming...ah well! Regards Steve S.

Dear All, Well my abs light has been on for a while now,at first it went of on its own for a while but more recently its been on all the time.Fearing the worst(knackered pump unit) I invested in one of thoes fault code readers....a Genden VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda type.All that this through up was code 011f...speed sensor rear right-G44. Great relief all round! mind you ,I don't how much a new sensor is,but I guess it isn't as much as a pump unit! So meanwhile ,I take off said sensor and give it a bloody good clean and stick it back hoping for a miracle! No such luck... which is a set back. So next I disconnect the wiring of each underneath the car (fortunately I've got a pit in the garage which saves a lot of crushed pelvises) and stick a ohmmeter on each sensor in turn...same reading.So next, my suspicions aroused,I cross connect the two sensors(I need to extend one pair of wires to reach) The reader again shows a 011f fault. This proves the rhs sensor to be OK does it not? I also disconnected both sensors, the reader throws up two codes 011f and 0122(speed sensor left rear G46). So now I am confused especially as at one point in all this the abs light went off and all seemed ok but it soon reverted to the fault and no amount of mucking about got back to that particular situation. Right, so what is my next plan of attack?Did I read somewhere on these informed pages that someone reckoned that there was a junc. box some where under the battery that could be the villain?Does it seem sensible to suspect the onward section of wiring from the sensor junction or is it going to be more complicated, and alas, an abs pump unit fault, and in which case should the reader not show it? Contributions as always most welcome! Regards Steve S.

Could it be something as simple as a lost balance weight of a tyre? Simple things first! Cheers Steve S.

Dear Italiastar, Just seen your post. I sympathise with your reluctance to "give it welly" as it were. It took me a lot of "ponder time" to determine the order and strength of attack. The switch will slide off upwards given firm, determined, yet careful !!!! wigling and prising. It's just that paint that "glues " it on that metal "tag" thats holding it firm. Go for it! As for your idea about extending the ashtray light, I wouldn't bother.. it sounds at least like a blown fuse waiting to happen or at worst conflagration! Besides, the gearstick light comes on with the ignition, and the ashtray light with the side/headlight switch..I think! Best of luck, Steve S.

Dear All, Have successfully managed to do this job also..today.A couple of pointers may help others: -You do need to remove the inhibitor switch to which the bulb arm is attached. So unplug the multi -plug from the bottom.The switch itself is stuck on a metal plate with "anti tamper/setting paint" which makes it reluctant to move.I found it easier to remove the console(4 screws)and then prise the whole switch upwards.CARE! use two flat bladed screwdrivers under each side of the switch -Don't touch the set screw on the top(again painted red) -Once free of the car you can unsolder/solder bulbs at the bench. -Halfords do do a suitable bulb but they are not ideal as the tails are not designed for this application and are too short to solder directly.Solder a short bridging piece (1")to the tails initially.The bulb numbers are 284(2.3W) or 286(1.2W) both around the

Dear Simon, Thanks for that.Having started I'm determined to get the b....... thing working! I've tried the search, but can't find anything definitive. It does seem however that you have to solder a new bulb in place which MUST mean removing the switch assembly surely? Has anyone done this.Precise instructions would be appreciated! As you suggest ,the whole job,simple though it sounds is not quite as straight forward as it appears. Look forward to everyone's comments Steve S.

Dear "Sip" Regarding this bulb change , I have removed said green diffuser thingy,but am having difficulty removing the actual bulb. I can't make out whether it's in its own black plastic holder or whether its just the glass and two wire tails that you pull. As mine has never worked under what circumstances is it illuminated? ie lights on , ignition on? Cheers , Steve S. ps anyone please feel free to reply ....goes without saying! pps any details on bulb size, type and rating?...in case I break it!

Yes, I concur with my learned colleagues on this question. I fitted a bar from this company last month ... a very straight forward job.I did seek the advice from the many posts on the subject in this forum. Look under towbar/s , towbar wiring,(in the technical section) and front splitter(don't ask!) in the questions about Galaxy section. Your galaxy is of the vintage (I think) that shouldn't require a bumper cut and the wiring plug/ socket should be present in the rhs panel .. where the jack is. Regards Steve S.

Thanks to everybody who's helped with this.We're off on holiday to the US tomorrow so its a job I'll tackle when I get back. It also means that there'll be a heatwave in this country.. enjoy! Steve S.

Dear Spanner137, This is indeed useful to know, I have a 1997 Ultima so hopefully the holes are already there. I'm intrigued with the non -removal of the headliner,does it involve a mouse- weilding spanner? Seriously please enlighten me as to the method involved it sounds to good to be true though it must save a lot of pratting about! cheers, Steve S.

Dear "Ivor" Thanks for for your help with this.I did see those posts and noted especially the reference to the cut outs and template.I'm just a bit wary of cutting the gutter strip without a definitive reference, obviously if you make a cock up your bug..red so to speak! I notice in one of your recent posts on this subject to "Twigglett" you mentioned "with photographs"(May 11, 2005) can you elaborate? I'm sure as I said I saw a reference to the holes already being drilled but blanked off but I can't find that.Does it ring a bell with you? Anyway as always, all help is greatly appreciated. Regards, Steve S.

A jolly good morning to one and all, Well I've managed to get hold of a set of roof rails off e-bay at a very good price..

Justme,....a further thought ,..when "mousing" the cable remove first the plastic cover at the boot edge(surrounding hatch latch) its just held by press clips.. pull up gently, this gives much better access to the box section so you can, if need be, run wires to the lhs lamp wiring. Steve.

Dear Justme, Wiring is pretty straight forward,I was fortunate in that the "pre -wired sockets were present in the rhs rear access panel where the jack is secured.They were well hidden mind in the corner. Don't confuse with the the connectors attached to the metal panel, they should be loose , possibly covered in foam, and may be attached with a plastic tie which you cut to give yourself more length.You, having a later model , may not have these sockets, which makes the job a tad more difficult and time consuming. I cut the sockets off as I'd already tried to obtain the corresponding socket/plug from Ford without success.You can then use Scotch clips or terminal blocks for the connections.I used the latter after tinning the bare wires... but what evers easier Scotch clips are usually supplied anyway.I routed the wire through the middle (of three) large grommets that you'll see on the under side of the floor. I used a welding rod to "mouse" the cable along this box section to where the wires are (trial& error I'm afraid) .Then connect up as per instructions on wiring diagram hopefully supplied with tow bar.If you need further help with the wiring colours etc feel free to post. Regards Steve S.

Dear jonc, Reading between the lines I guess you've done this job before????!!!! Thanks for the advice ... greatly appreciated.The price doesn't seem too bad either(a similar even smaller piece on the Clio we have costs over

I've just noticed that I havn't got that bit of black plastic attached to the bottom lip of the front bumper.Did all models have these or has mine fell off somewhere? It's an R reg Galaxy Ultima. Anyone any idea of replacement cost.. at least

Hi, According to this Galaxy brochure I've got (its 1997 but it's relevant) the Galaxy Aspen had the following listed under "security features" Alarm-perimeter with volume sensor...no Fuel flap -central locking linked...........yes Immobilisor system............................yes locking wheel nuts..............................no Locks-cetral,double locking..................yes Locks remote control locking................no Locks-remote door lock "global"operation of windows and sunroof.......................no visible VIN no.....................................yes Hope this helps, Regards Steve S.

Sorry,missed a number off!!! it's 4547906703 Steve S.