Steve S.

Doh ! I've not been well.....I think I must have had half an eye on Dave G's reply ...he's East Midlands. Anyway the advice still holds, and after all Leicester isn't too far from Cobham, you'll find it just east of Inverness. Regards, Steve S.

Hi Francis Yes, I agree with Dave on this.I've had some trouble with my auto box and the main dealer is not really the place to go . I notice you're from the E. Midlands, it depends where but I took my Galaxy to both Oakdene in Nottingham, and Eddie Rose in Mansfield. Both seem to know what they're talking about and gave the same diagnosis.Further South, D&K Automatics ,Whetstone near Leicester have a good reputation evidently.Do you have other symptoms with your box eg slipping. "cattle grid effect". delayed change.whistles on change. snatch on reverse take up etc. or is it all down to a faulty control unit..cost about

Hi Stevie, I've done this and posted about it ...somewhere on here! Basically you can mark the rubber strip with the required rectangular cut out.I used a hacksaw and stanley knife (you may well have found my old post!) The rubber strip pulls out of it's channel easily if you want to see where the hole blanking plates are..pull from back of car, but don't fully pull off past top of windscreen ..no point. It may help with the cutting also, but I did this atop of a small step ladder with the strip more or less in place. There should be rubber foot seals with the rails which you can lather in silicone sealer if you want to make the holes waterproof even moreso but it's probably not necessary .. mines never leaked...yet! You need to be careful and patient with the headliner, do one side at a time and keep your hands clean! Don't forget to prearm yourself with some new trim-clips for the pillar trims, they tend to be a bit brittle. It's a straight forward job, just take your time. Regards, Steve S.

Hi Geoff, Thanks for your reply, I just knew somebody somewhere would have had a dabble at this! Anyway, armed with a new found confidence, I've managed to open up one of the ordinary keys and have retrieved the chip. The numbers on this bear no obvious relationship to those on the "new" remote chip. ie the ordinary key just has E4 T5-00 which matches my existing remote chip..well at least the T5-00 does. the new chip has no less than 29 characters not including "Thailand" on it, non of which compare to the other chips! Anyway, at least it will fit physically with a dab of superglue.So I shall go ahead and order a chipless key from e-bay and then visit one's friendly locksmith. Thanks again...and I hope your own job goes smoothly. Regards, Steve.

Hi Everyone, hope you are all ok and enjoying the blistering bank holiday weather! I notice that keys are a popular topic at the moment so I thought I'd weigh in with a question or two. I've just bought a remote key from e-bay, as a spare. It needs a key blank and I notice there are a few sellers of such on e-bay as well.(It's infra-red by the way) My existing remote was bought new from Fords ,and along with two two new ordinary keys from e-bay was cut and programmed by a local locksmith in Nottingham, and all are working fine Now does anyone know whether a) the "horse-shoe" type blanks fit all remotes ie radio and i/r as some don't specify 1997 galaxies. :P will the chip inside the "new" remote be reprogrammable to my car or do I need to buy a new blank with a specific chip for my car's year etc.( The chip seems to be rectangular black thing 1cmx.5cmx.3cm. it has loads of figures/letters on it starting PCF...) c) could I use the chip from one of my non remote keys in my remote assuming :P is a non starter?( I'm having trouble comparing the actual chips as I can't seem to dislodge the one in the remote or get at the chip inside the ordinary key and I don't want to cause damage. Does anyone know the secret to their removal?) d) some sellers mention a "glass" chip in their remote key blanks ,are these the same as the black rectangular ones? I'll be taking all the keys back to the locksmith anyway but I would like to have the correct bits and pieces to start with. So if anyone can help..I'd be grateful. Cheers for now, Steve S.

Dear Richard, This place might be of use. www.remanufactor.com It's in the Netherlands. Sent my c/c unit there , cured the problem. I had changed pump and tubes to no avail. Unit behind rad/cass , air con facia unit. Cheers, Steve S.

Hi Everybody, hope you are all well, Just a quickie...hopefully. Does the the light switch unit (to the right of the steering wheel on the facia above the fuse box)have a (green?) indicator light to say if the dipped beam is on? I know one lights up for the side lights, but my ancient eyes can't pick out one for the dips..one that works anyhow. I know there's a blue indicator light comes on in the instument panel with the main beam but nothing else. I don't want to knacker the unit up unecessarily looking for something that may not be there! Regards Steve S.

Dear Shaun, Hope you get your belt and tensioner sorted out ok. With regard to your water leak problem, could well be unrelated to the belt snapping and might well be a leaky thermostat housing. It sounds like the "the area" for this, and your car is about that age . Mine is a '97, and I had a leak last year. The job is a bit of a swine ,just takes time. It's documented in a post called "leak or not to leak" by my goodself! Just hit the "search" button. Best of luck. Cheers, Steve S.

Job done!!! As Ghia-X said, you just need a sharp knife (Stanley), run it round the o/s of the trim, use your fingers and thumbs to push it away from lens.. a little at a time and off it pops! Used thumb nail and sharp chisel to scrape rest of tape off, clean sticky off with wire wool and petrol. Use proper body shop double sided tape`in the groove where the old stuff came out of...about 1/2 hour. Bagpuss, if you had an old light unit, I hope you kept it????. Mind you I suppose there's a few cracked ones out there with a decent chrome bit on that you can pick up for a lot less than

Dear Ghia-X, Thanks for that, I wondered what held it on.I'll have a bash at it this afternoon! Cheers, Steve S.

Dear Bagpuss, Blimey!!!.....again! Steve S.

Hi Bagpuss, Blimey...

Hi Folks, Just a quickie whilst I await developments(or not) on the thermistor front. I've just swapped my rear light panel for an uncracked one from the scrappy. Unfortunately it came from a "less posh " car and hasn't got the chrome number plate area surround. I've had a look at the original and it looks pretty well fixed. Does anyone know whether it's possible to remove it without damage, or failing that,how much does the O/E version from VW/ Ford cost? Thanks in anticipation. Steve S.

.......my next project is to mend the leaky sunroof.....!!!!....Actually ,touch wood ,it works a treat! I'm just on my way out to pick some people's brains on this thermister thing.....I'll get to the bottom (pun definitely intended!) eventually. Cheers, Steve S.

Dear NikpV, As I intimated, electronics is not my strong point! As far as I can remember the seat base has 4 wires going to it....2 go to the element, and two to the thermister.They lead back to a 6 way connector,the other two wires of which feed the backrest element (which has no seperate thermister of its own)It gets complex here ,I'll check in the morning, but there are connections to the relay,and then onward to the 4-way connection to the loom. You can get continuity of the elements at the 6-way connector but not at the 4-way and no cont'y of the thermister at the 6-way. Theoretically it should all be wired in series for both elements to be protected I suppose. Cheers again, Steve S.

Dear NikpV, Thanks for your suggestions.Interestingly, the element wire passes directly over the metal disc of the the thermistor so it should provide a pretty accurate reading.Are not the temp.specs of the maplin components too high? If one doesn't roast one's arse ,it'll likely get scalded , we're near the boiling point of water here before it cuts out! I don't know whether it is the right sort of component as it works once only as a cut out. I imagine the original component sends info continuously to the relay or am I talking out of my burnt bits :) Cheers Steve S.

Hi NikpV, Yes, I saw some of those but I have no idea whether they would do the job or not. I've looked at RS components too, they have something that looks "similar" ie rswww.com item 198-898 etc. but again I've no idea. I've checked the whole of Google this evening, and not one entry mentions the actual type or a supplier. I'm quite cheesed off that I can't get a definitive answer to this, after all somebody somewhere in the world must have fitted one of these at some time in the past even if it's some dozy bloke in Portugal (no offence intended!) on the assembly line! I suppose I could by-pass it somehow and just switch it off when my arse catches fire! Cheers Steve S.

Well, I have made some progress today! I've stripped the seat down to reveal the heating element on the squab.(I am taking a photo record as I go so it may appear on here eventually depending whether I'm successful or not!) I discovered a single break in the element which I have soldered up and taped. I now have continuity on this element circuit. There is however, a slight burn mark underneath the thermistor, and, when reconnected up (temporarily) the the unit doesn't heat up...oh tits! So, assuming it's the thermistor at fault, can anyone with a degree in physics point me in the right direction for a replacement with the correct specs?!!! (It's a metal disc like a watch battery with the wires soldered on either side) At the mo. the avo shows open circuit, so I'm assuming this is knackered and wouln't work under other cicumstances eg if it heated up? Cheers for now, Steve S.

Dear All, Well, for my next project I thought that I would tackle the non-working, passenger side seat, especially as the cold mornings seem to be with us (at last ??) After an initial investigation, it transpires that both seats don't work. Well it's hardly a blow but if you've got 'em you may as well have the benefit! On further investigation with the AVO and a bulb it looks like it is both seat squab elements that are at fault, which is bleeding typical as it looks like the the most involved of jobs. The backrest elements show continuity, as does all the connecting wiring, the switches seem to operate and have their rheostat function,whilst the relays (under the seats) "look" ok...nice and shiny inside with moveable points. It is just the squab elements that have an "open" circuit reading. Now I'm not too sure of my ground here as there are 4 wires leading to the seat bottom element I am led to believe that one pair is for the element ,the other for the thermistor (a kind of temp.regulator ?) but as they are supposed to be in series (i.e. one break and the lot fails) I don't quite see how it is wired up.Anyway unless anyone suggests not , I'll assume it is that the heating element that has broken and / or the thermistor has become detached. As this further investigation requires some leather upholstery skills etc. I was hoping for some advice from the knowledgeable amongst you that may have have had the nerve/ skill/ confidence/ sheer stupidity! to have tackled this before. I understand that replacement elements are available (at a horrendous price) so I am hoping to repair any break with bridging wires. Anyway your input,as always, is greatly appreciated. Regards to all, Steve S.

Dear All, Well at long last managed to get the old cruise control working again.As we suspected, having eliminated the "usual suspects", suspicion fell on the c/c amplifier module in this case securely locked away behind the dashboard! Thanks again to Vanbursta's concise advice....Yes, there is NO need to remove the whole dash, just the central rad/cass/air-con select units, their trim panel and retaining frame. Also in order to withdraw the module, the glove-box and surround comes out.( Incidentally at this point I discovered a free wire and connecter block behind the glove-box plus an oval blanking plate in the lower trim panel... turns out to be extra courtesy light provision lighting the passenger footwell.A trip to fords and

Dear Vanbursta, Strewth! There's a lot of paper there! But, such is the cost of sheer luxurious motoring! Presumably, if your Galaxy was of mere standard appointments you wouldn't bother!!!!????!!! Mind it does show how much you can get through in the never ending quest to get everything as it should be. Regards Steve S. P.S. I think I've discovered a Dutch gentleman that repairs C/C modules for 50 euros! So the cost keeps coming down! With a bit of luck I'll run into a bloke round the corner that mends them for nothing!

Dear Vanbursta, Thanks for the picture, just the job. I've "retrieved" the item in question about an hour ago! Pretty straight forward job..as you said, both the glove box and rad/cass/air con facia had to come out. The multi-plug wasn't loose..ah well! I've traced GBM parts in KL..seems to be a difference of opinion as to whether they've ceased trading or not..their e.bay feedback is a bit "iffish".I'll try to contact them on monday whilst keeping all the other options open. (there is a c/c module on e-bay currently..for a Range Rover,it differs by only one number but alas is completely different internally wise!) These units are made by Hella evidently so it gives me another line of research..I'll be bu.gg.red if I'm going to pay silly money for something that can't cost that much to knock together!!!! Keep up the good work, Steve S.

Morning ! I love pictures like this as well...very instructional. As I'm about to delve further in this direction in search of the cruise control amp/module .Would some kind computer literate soul please indicate on the photo where it is...thats assuming it's there of course! Much obliged! Steve S.

Well, I've had a reply from this company in the USA...Auto&Truck Electronics in Florida.They will for $99 repair your c/c module or bench test it for $55. shipping is a mighty $39. there is a 3 year guarantee. All of which makes it cheaper than

Dear Bleeno, An interesting theory.....unfortunately, impossible in this case, the car is an auto and so comes minus clutch! I've found a place in the USA that seems to refurbish cruise control units for about