Steve S.

Dear all, Firstly thanks to MM for your considered and as usual helpful reply. The reason I asked the question in the first place was to try and avoid any ATF spillage as I thought on my particular model there was a way to do it... and only later on of course did I realise I'd forgotten to say what the model was ....old age I'm afraid it comes to us all! There never seems to be a definitive answer to a particular problem...anyway, what I'm trying to ascertain is whether I can remove the rhs driveshaft without pulling it out of the diff housing and therefore losing oil.. and before I forget again, it's a V6 auto 1997 Ultima! Haynes doesn't deal with this engine and Ford TIS is a little confusing. It states, as I see it, that the shaft can be split just outboard of the supporting bearing by undoing the 6 splined bolts, and by releasing it at the hub end ,as normal, the outer shaft and CV joint(plus the split boot) can be removed.But, it says that this 6 bolted disc thing is particular to the 4x4 4speed auto box. Mine is definitely not a 4x4 (I think I would have noticed!) but it has the 6-splined bolt affair on the drive shaft...Can anyone explain this or am I just "dazed and confused?" And..of course, can I do the job by this method? Thanks again in anticipation, Steve S.

Good evening to one and all, Whilst visiting the underside of the car this afternoon, I discovered an almost 360 deg. split in the inboard gaiter of the o/s drive shaft. Are these available on their own...where.. how much...etc? Can the job be done without getting covered in oily stuff? Your thoughts as usual gratefully accepted! It would appear that new driveshafts are a tad expensive...... to be avoided at all costs! Regards Steve S.

Well Hi to one and all, I thought I'd get back to you regarding this little problem. I realise it's been some time , but the weather's been so nice I could't be arsed to spend the time in the garage. Well the problem turned out to be exactly as sepulchrave suggested....a million thanks to you! Basically the rubber gasket had failed on the thermostat housing due I suspect to the plastic channel in which it sits having broken away in part thus allowing leakage across the gasket. (I later discovered an American website which says " the commonest cause of coolant leakage in the V6 engine...") so there we have it. I replaced the thermostat and all the relevant "O" rings plus the drivebelt. I also had to replace the coolant run-on pump ( on V6's it sits under the rhs of the radiator) would have cost about

Raymac. I got two blank keys (not remote )from a chap on e-bay. they were new but not ford originals Got a local locksmith to programme them (plus a remote (i/red)The keys were

IIRC... if I remember correctly means ... if I remember correctly!

Dear Sepulchrave, Just back from the pub quiz...another disaster! Thanks for your latest epistle! I reckon I'm at about no.15 on your guide, tho' I don't think that I've disconnected quite as much...though there is still time! You seem to suggest that the a/c rad/heat exchanger can be left gassed up if you just disconnect a few more bits from the front???.I'll take your good advice and renew the thermostat.. as you say it's not a job that you want to repeat too often! I'm trying to decide whether this motor is as complex as my recently departed Renault 5 gt turbo...I suppose the decider is how many bits youv'e got left over at the end Cheers Steve S.

Dear Sepulchrave , I think you may well be right! I've spent most of the day taking "layers" of car off to gain access to this area.Imust admit I was getting a bit cheesed off with that "getting nowhere"feeling but your post will give me fresh impetus to carry on tomorrow! Do you happen to know why a leak occurs here, is it a crack in the plastic or a seal or joint problem? Also I'm at the stage wondering whether to remove the a/c radiator or not .What do you recommend? Any other tips? Cheers, Steve S.

Thanks for that guys. I can't see it being this pump then if it's stuck on the bulkhead. This leak seems to be a slow "gravity" leak. It reminds me of a weepy core plug type of leak, but it could be a pipe leak as there appears to be a few at the front of the block. Steve S.

Yes, they both have that smug look on their faces when you're cleaning their crap up!! Bless!! Steve S.

Dear bd, You could well be right...as I say the exploded diagrams in Russet are next to useless when it comes to locating the actual position of things relative to each other.I don't know whether there are better diagrams available else where.I don't think Haynes or TIS deal with the V6.What else is there? Regards, Steve S.

Hi again, Thanks for your suggestions. Danyoda1....this leak is on the non-pulley side, and seems to be getting worse! It drips every 4 secs now.There is as you say another pump on this side called a coolant run-on pump.. I don't know its exact location so I can't be certain if it's the culprit or not! I'm working from the Peter Russek manual at the moment which shows the pipework at the front of the engine but not in sufficient detail to locate a leak and pipe responsible in the same position.(if you see what I mean) What I could do with is a super photo of the engine front minus the rad. Anyone!!!!!????? I suppose the only course of action is to remove the rad. and have a closer look unless anyone can think of a work saving short cut or test of some kind.You can see I'm clutching at straws now! The last thing I wanted to do on a bank holiday is mess about with an oily old engine! Ah well..... Regards Steve S.

You won't be able to hear the rattles for the f....ing dog barking! I wish we'd got another cat! Steve S.

Can't see it making much difference to your heat problem as a metal box in the sun is going to be absorbing a hell of a lot. Don't dark colours absorb more heat anyway? Save your money and buy a darker shade of sunglasses! Steve S.

Hmmm....! Anyway, I've just spent a happy investigative 1/2 hour under the vehicle...all does not seem well however....it's leaking again and its definately coolant...it's blue. It seems to emanate from a point on the block/flywheel housing joint three flange bolts up from the sump/block joint, about level with the top of the starter motor. I can't see any hoses up there although it's pretty difficult to see much anyway..lots of wires and connectors etc. I can't think what else is up there that could leak.. apart from core plugs??... head gasket??. Anyone have intimate knowledge of this area?...Begining to have that expensive feeling! Oh shi......! Anyway, anyone got any other ideas, all gratefully accepted! Steve S.

Hi Folks, Hope you are all enjoying the bank holiday. I've discovered a pool of "wet" underneath the Galaxy. It's coming off the front of the clutch housing about 1/2 way up the engine block on the rhs facing the car. Can anyone tell me if this is where the air/con vents to, or have I a bigger problem? It's not the radiator as this is fairly new. I've just been for a short run and apparently no leak but it did drip all night. No significant coolant loss although it does need a small amount every now and then.It's a V6 by the way. Thanks in anticipation, Steve S.

Hi Andrew, Yes he has a cage/crate which he is well used to.We are hoping to take him/ crate/galaxy "socialising"this weekend.We are also giving him the occasional feed in the car as well though he's not too keen at the mo. Hopefully if we keep at it he should get used to it all! Steve S.

Many thanks for the ideas folks. Really useful as always. I've researched that Aztec tent in GK's first post.. it is called an Aztec autohaven plus (ie with inner compartment) and cheapest I have found is

Dear All, With Summer hopefully around the corner(as he shovels more coke on the fire!) my thoughts have turned to wondering how versatile the Galaxy is as regards camping. My DLW and I have just taken on a puppy, hmmmm...! and with mother having had a stroke and ensconced in a nursing home we can't really go too far afield for the forseeable future. We therefore have ideas of heading off into the country ,weekends and longer,armed with the Galaxy, double sleeping bag and lilo and loads of dog food. What are the experiences of fellow owners in this regard? Do problems regarding batteries, alarms,comfort etc crop up? What is it actually like sleeping in a Galaxy or would it make more sense to take a tent and sleep in that. Has anyone had experience of those awnings that attach to the tailgate or side door..is there one that fits the Gal well? I recall someone mentioning a CARNOPY..are these any good? Are most sites dog friendly? Recommendations welcome... anywhere! Anyway your camping exploits and advice are most welcome. Regards and dib dib, Steve S.

Well...good news, it passed! Only two "advisories",....exhaust rather rusty, and couldn't see brake pads. So, another problem free year of happy motoring! Such joy! Regards Steve S.

Dear All, Thanks for your responses.I've decided to play safe and put the seats in , beit only temporarily.So, fingers crossed for tomorrow. It should be ok as long as the headlight fuse doesn't start playing up! Cheers Steve S.

Hi All, Just a quickie! Do the seats have to be all installed for the MOT? I'm thinking about seat belts and checking thereof. Steve S.

My favourite "man's" joke! Man walks into the doctors and "slaps" his dick on the table. Doctor..."What's wrong with that then?" Man..." Nowt, It's a beaut. isn't it? " (end) Steve S.

Hi, I did this not too long ago.It's straight forward but time consuming.I pulled up the rubber strip from the back only up to the top of the windscreen,then leave flat on the roof.You will see now where the 3 blanking plugs are, held in with white sealer and a nut (removed from beneath headliner) I used a soft pencil to mark the centre of each plug on the roof panel itself just adjacent to the channel.Place rubber strip back and transfer markings to it .Then mark on dimensions of rail "foot" and cut out using hacksaw(across) and stanley knife(along) and for trimming.You don't cut right across, but end up with a neat rectangular hole in the rubber more offset to the car's centre.The flat rubber spacers on the 6 feet allow you a small amount of cock-up but not much! I tried to locate a set of cut out stencils but nobody had any. I used some silicone sealer on the feet to make sure but there should be rubber washers with it that seem adequate. Also remove the headliner one side at a time, there is a post on this somewhere! Hope this helps, Steve S.

Hi all, Well I've been investigating further over the last couple of weeks..without getting my hands dirty I should add...this enigmatic problem! It appears that if I don't switch the cabin heating on, the fuse stays intact, but,if the cabin gets nice and cosy, after a while the "bulb" failure symbol lights up and lo and behold, on investigation, the fuse has gone, (one more for the neighbour's garden!) So the question begs itself...where is the most likely location for a short to develop? I suspect the back of the fusebox..just a hunch..but has anyone any other ideas? All gratefully received as always! Regards, Steve S. P.S. I've also developed a rather intriguing cruise control problem but I'll save that for another day. Arn't these galaxies wonderful! (do not reply to this!)

I suppose, in part, answering my own question, this has got to be a heat related problem, ie as engine heats up, expansion occurs, conductor shorts out.Back to normal when engine cools.Is anyone au fait with the loom route ,or can suggest likely places where wires/ connecting blocks/fuses/ relays/etc are likely to experience such effects? Is it possible to to test different segments of this circuit easily? Keep your thoughts coming in...together we can defeat this! Steve S.:huh: