chrispb123456

Hi Toby Your flap problem may be due to debris ie leaves and dirt entering intake through ill fitting pollen filter at some point in it's life, if you say the operating levers are moving to there full extent, the door/flap seals may be damaged. The valve your refering to looks like the ECOV (electronic change over valve) it's to aid quicker warm up of the front heater in cold weather.

It's good to hear you got most of your money back well done!! There's far to many new members joining the forum that have just purchased cars with a shopping list of faults.

Hi there I have a Mk 2 which Iv'e been using the universal beam banders now for a few years and have never been that impressed with the beam deflection, however just come across temporary headlamp masking in the TIS manual which you print off the templates for both lamps and then use black tape to mark off the exact position on the lamps, unlike beam benders a bit hit or miss where you stick them, I'm going to try this when I go to Germany next month + it's got to be cheaper than beam benders. Not sure if the MK 3 lights are the same MK 2 may be worth a try.

Hi there Welcome to the site. Firstly don't know how you purchased the car, but I think you should have had it towed straight back to where you got it from and get your money back. Secondly I would be very very wary buying a secondhand gearbox unless you know the history of it. + know one can possibly gaurantee how long it would last. Im guessing you havn't paid much for this car, but your looking around the

As far as cars are concerned in this country, O/S offside, right hand side is the drivers side. N/S nearside is the passenger side. :)

Hi there If your car is the mark 2 you may have a problem with your in tank pump, fuel supply relay, fuse?

Hi there Rogue If you have the trip computer look in the car's handbook page 64-67 you will find a list of possible warning messages, if the warning message "Alternator Workshop" were to appear it would be accompanied breifly with the red battery/ignition warning light. If you click on "MY Controls" you will find the menu's for personalising your postings :) ps check for your engine code there's a sticker on the timing belt cover or look on your registration document it will be 3 letters, ANU. AUY. ASZ.

Hi there Not done a pump on this engine but looks quite involved even though it's not driven from the cam belt, it does say in the manual to remove pump with the housing, assuming thats how your doing it? is it that the nuts are rusted up or is it an accessability problem.

Hi there and welcome to the site I think the noise your refering to is the front and rear heater control flaps and yes it is normal. :)

Hi looking on the TIS it's at 12 oclock on the bell housing

Hi there Sounds like a dodgy spark plug or plug lead, quite common and simple to change, it may be something deeper but do the easy fixes first.

Hi there Sounds like the very popular alternator pulley problem, this usually starts giving problems around 85000 to 95000 mls. The pulley has a built in clutch which allows the pulley to freewheel in one direction, they can either seize up or as in my case freewheel in both directions, this action usually brings on the "Alternator Workshop Light" momentarily on the dash. Your mechanic shouldn't have a problem getting alternator off but if he's going to attempt taking pulley off it requires a special tool, I had mine replaced at the alternator repair shop who supplied part

It's not that funny Greg taking the p**s out of a scotchman down on his luck perhaps just one of each is acceptable :16: :)

Carlube triple R Fully Synthetic 5W-40PD

Hi there You need to click on "my controls" then you can edit your profile and/or edit signiture, whatever you write in signiture is then visible every time you post. :16:

Hi there and welcome to the site. I had the very same problem with mine, I was advised from two auto gearbox repairers that changing the fluid and filter is a waste of time and money, and fords say its in there for life. There are members on the forum that have had a successful outcome including myself by changing the fluid, there are detailed instructions in the FAQ section for changing the fluid as it's not a straight forward operation, and will need to be repeated several times with a drive between changes, the torque converter and valve chest hold about 3.5 litres which cannot be drained. It may not work for you but I think its worth a try because your looking at about

Hi there glad to see your resolving the problem, that pin six on the relay which you say is dead on closer look at the diagram is fed from pin 3 of the red connector on the back of the control module,as Mark pointed out. The ATC module appears to have more than one supply. F6, F14, F22, just wondered if this may affect operation of Air-Con

relays show as being inside ATC module

Definitely separate the alternator pulley is attached to the alternator, the tensioner pulley is a separate unit behind alternator.

Alternator Pulley and belt tensioner are the same sorry , We are talking about a Galaxy here? may help to know what engine you got iirc all engines have an auxilary drive belt tensioner and a fixed position alternator.

Yes power steering pump.

Alternator and belt tensioner are not the same thing

Check make sure pump is tight and not worked loose.