chrispb123456

I take it when you say you are removing the cap that the level has gone down? and as you remove the cap air and some coolant is lost as the level rises, (you can compress air but not a liquid). All that air has to come from somewhere? answer compression pressure leaking across head gasket joint into the water jacket, worst case cracked head. If your removing the head yourself you will almost certainly need the head refaced as 4 years of early stages of HGF has now taken it's toll

Have only seen "repeated" flame out 01409 means the same thing anyway. Have not tried removing the red lead from the plug but have cut the lead from both plugs and bypassed the plug adding in a length of suitable wire with insulated connectors. May be worth checking filter gauze on the inlet side of dosing pump.

Had you scanned the heater module for fault codes this may have answered your question, you could try connecting directly to a battery for a few seconds, hold the plug body with pliers don't want no burnt fingers. Of course if the plug is dead nothing will happen. The flame out problem is more common when facing down hill (fuel away from pick up pipe) and the heater has to be running or attempt to start to get this scenario.

The glow plug you have ordered Beru GH001 is the old type with a screw thread on the end, you need a VW number 7M3 963 319A this is the ceramic plug with wires attached and can be used to replace 7D0 963 319 which is the GH001

Below

It's usually unburnt diesel dripping because of a failed start,when fitting a new plug check or replace the gauze, this sits in the combustion chamber where the plug fits. Removing the screws can be a problem so soak them well in penetrating fluid first. You also need to make sure the auxiliary coolant pump is working as this will affect the correct operation of the heater

Have a look inside the fuse box next to the battery for signs of melting, if there are you will need to replace the box and the crimps on the end of the two large black cables.

You do love to live dangerously Greg you know she has the power to switch you off :1:

You need to get your lower undercover off to check out your CV joints particularly the inner ones, also check the rear engine mount (roll restrictor) for movement.

Your asking for trouble Greg thats the wrong one This one's fine http://thechive.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/tumblr_ml2wf0fdyq1s8k9mto1_500.gif?w=450

I meant the site mumsy :rolleyes: how's that Kia going? my old neighbour runs up from south Wales to Kent every couple of weeks he can't believe how good it is on fuel it is but then after a 4 litre range rover anything must be better. I changed the steel tubes recently that run to the rear heater as someone before he owned it had disconnected (bypassed) it, I used two lengths of heater hose to replace the bad section cost

I wonder if we're in for some adminy updates, must be due for a face lift :5: :16:

The glow plug light doubles as the engine management light on the diesels

Yes you do need to drain the oil otherwise some will come out when you remove the drive shafts and then be constantly dripping out while manoeuvring the box

Couldn't have said it better myself. :)

Clear it and see if it comes, the sensor is inside the gearbox You can see the gearbox temp in measuring blocks. iirc 005

That's the booster heater standard fitment to the diesel versions, fully automatic unless you have the independent heating option Aids faster warming up during the cold weather.

Relay 30 is petrols only and 109 will not affect starter, check starter, wiring and ignition switch.

whereabouts in Kent are you?

So negative deviation is lack of boost pressure, this may be something as simple as a leak between the turbo outlet and the intake manifold, can you hear any hissing whooshing noises? The valve (N75) that controls the vacuum that operates the turbo actuator and associated pipework hidden behind the heatshield at the back of the engine Then we come back to the turbo itself sticking vanes? have you tried operating the actuator by hand, does it move it's full travel without sticking (bearing in mind the strong spring inside the actuator and restricted location

The 1Z & AHU are the 90ps engines of the MK1 There were a few late MK1's with the 90ps ANU pd engine this one is also used in the MK2 Looking on VAG cat only the ANU & AUY use the same flywheel Are you sure you want to go down the solid flywheel route, have heard a few regrets where they have changed back to DMF because of vibration and transmission rattle

Early engines didn't have DMF which is why you seen cheaper kits, EG. 1Z & AHU they were fitted to the later engines EG AFN but bear in mind yours is a PD engine 115 AUY

It may be an electrical fault but consider this do you keep the keys in your pocket when out of the car. I can be outside working on another car leaning against it or laying underneath working then suddenly my central locking is going crazy where I'm inadvertently pressing on the buttons. Pressing and holding the unlock button will activate global opening.

Check fuse 31. 32.

Relay 30