chrispb123456

Hi there As radiotwo said waste of money, the specialist will be able to tell you if you have a leak usually from the drier/condenser or may be a fractured pipe, if your really unlucky the evaporator leaking, that means total removal of the dash and heater unit, they will finish off by adding a fluorescent dye which will aid diagnosing any future leak. I have a number for a mobile aircon fitter in the Maidstone area of Kent. Any one who needs this service can PM me for the details.

Hi Ade It's quite a while now since I changed it, well before I had vag com. I had been talking to the guy at the mot station and he said had I had any problems with the maf sensor, as they were prone to problems with low power and running rough. It was a few months after that I had occasional problems as above, thats when I got the ebay special which sort of cleared the power problem but got this surging tick over, went to my local spares shop, he got me a genuine Bosch exchange unit. I didn't unplug anything and try running it at the time so cant comment on that. Chris

Hi there The drier cartridge is on the left hand end of the condenser, that's between the radiator and front grill, and looking at the car from the front. You will need to undo the top screws of the grill, then there is a plastic cap to remove then the circlip.

Hi Bigjeeze Yes I agree fully with you, It was meant to be lighthearted hence the rolling eye's. You also don't have the air-con guy on standby waiting for all potential road accidents, to draw off the gas before a front end impact :(

Hi there Sorry to hear of your bad luck, just wondered if your tensioner breaking was actually caused by a dropped valve not the other way round :(

Hi there With no pressure in the system the pressure switch will not allow the clutch to engage, but to be sure leave the electrical supply to the compressor disconnected. Your right about the oil but make sure the system is vacuumed as moisture will have entered whilst disconnected.

Hi Ade A couple of years ago I had an intermittant loss of power, which I decided to get a MAF sensor from ebay, it cured the loss of power but tick over became very erratic, was continually speeding up and slowing down on it own. In the end I paid

Hi there May be nothing more than just replacing oil pressure switch, before delving to deep. what engines that.

Mr Spell ;) say there must have been something wrong with the old one then?

Hi all Never been one for modding to bigger wheels and tyres, but surely this must have an effect on overall gear ratio, and what about the speedo that will need recalibrating to show correct speed and mileage, are speed sensors available for non standard wheel sizes?

Hi again I had mine re-gassed April 2009 that was

Hi there Those tins you can buy come with the connector/adapter, they come with full instructions. It will say you need to find the low pressure connector, when you lift bonnet there are too connectors with black screw caps, the adapter will only fit one of these thats the low pressure one as the other is slightly bigger. Personally I wouldn't waste my money, firstly you don't know how much you need to put in, if it's all leaked away you will certainly need more than one tin, and if you overfill the system you can do more harm than good. Get in touch with a auto air-con specialist they will suck out any remaining gas to tell you how much you have lost, vacuum the whole system, leak test, if every things OK regas the system which will include new oil and fluorescent dye for detecting any future leak

Hi there DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) sounds like the culprit.

Hi J You said fuse 7 power supply is dead also check 8,9,10,11,12 see if these are also dead, they are fed from the fuse box next to the battery.

Hi there If you haven't got the screeching with air-con turned off then the clutch is working, it will be air-con compressor seized, have you had it re gassed recently? probably no oil been added, new compressor

Hi alan can only repeat whats already been said you may need to give the stubborn one a bit of brute force.

Hi and welcome to the site Twisting the knob selects the side L or R that you want to adjust, you then push the knob in the direction you want the mirror to go with ignition on.

Hi and welcome to the site You probably need a new alternator clutch pulley.

Hi there and welcome to the site Sounds like a bad earth connection but first check fuses 30 to 34 ;)

Hi J Have you got the fuses under the drivers seat for the rear sockets? and have you tried for power on the back of the sockets and cig lighter. If you need to run a wire from battery if you look behind the ABS valve block and down a bit in the bulkhead there's a rubber grommet, inside the car it's just under the heater blower.

But it's not your Birthday till September ;)

Hi there this could be relay 30/27

Hi Frank Running out of ideas now, one of your mechanic friends mentioned about the fuel pump making the noise, now this is a long shot but worth having a look. The fuel pump is also the vacuum pump which supplies the brake servo etc, have a look at the pipes around the back of the pump/fuel filter area for chaffing/splits, you can get some strange noises through air pressure/vacuum leaks, whistling/whirring, more so if it's nearer the pump

Hi Frank Bit of a bummer doing all that and still getting a noise, there were some posts recently about the large intercooler pipe bracket snapping in half under the crankshaft pulley, that gives a rattle chattering noise but I'm sure you would have noticed that today, and you say the noise is coming from the drivebelt end of the engine. Could the noise be coming from behind engine, ie, intake plate EGR valve area?

Hi there There are two tangs on each holder that need to be depressed, mine only have one on each as they have snapped of at some time, you may also find it easier if you remove radio as you can push cup holder from behind. See attached new photo's